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AlZilla

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About AlZilla

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    At A Workbench Somewhere
  • Interests
    Usually get me into troule

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Making undersized belt loops
  • Interested in learning about
    Utiity pieces
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Looked Under A Fallen Tree

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  1. I don't know how you're setting your initial bobbin tension, but ... I've been rehabbing mostly neglected domestic machines for a while. Often the bobbin area needs a lot of attention. Crud, lint, corrosion, etc. Rather than guess at bobbin tensions, I bought this crude little scale. At least it gets me in the ballpark on bottom tension. Then a good disassembly, cleaning and polishing of tension unit and thread guides and tensions haven't given me much trouble. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HKPN7I?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  2. Pre-1900 Singer used a strictly numeric serial number. They ended around 16,800,000 in 1899. Anything without a letter, predates that. Anything starting with a letter, is 1900+. But, somewhere I read about Singers with 2 serials and which one to use. Damned if I can remember where. For 50 US dollars, I'd have broken my shoulder getting my wallet out and hoping the seller didn't sober up before I had it loaded. That is a domestic sewing machine, not intended for leather work.
  3. Would smooth feed dogs solve your problem? I've bee drooling over the cb3500/cb4500 and I know a smooth feed dog is available.
  4. Cowboy Bob scares me... I've started squirreling money away for a 3500 or 4500.
  5. As said, unless there's a compelling reason to sell, I'd hang on to it. It's unique while the others are common.
  6. There are 2 set screws in the shuttle driver. There must be a reason they used the pin, too. Positioning relative to the hook and maybe keeping the end play where they wanted it?
  7. I don't know. The illustration in the parts list looks like a solid pin of some kind. I'm just going to play with a selection of wires and pins until I find something. For that matter, a machine screw and a nut would keep it from turning.
  8. Maybe this will save someone trouble down the road. My education about the shuttle driver on my 44-10 Singer. I recently dragged home the aforementioned machine. It spun loosely enough but would only make a partial turn in either direction before it came up against some kind of a hard stop. The needle was broken off so wasn't causing interference. I quickly figured out that removing the bobbin case would let it spin fine. A little investigating revealed that the hook timing was off. Way, way off. Like a 1/3 or 1/2 turn of the hook off. The 44-10 is apparently a short arm version of the 31-15 so there was plenty of information to sift through. Looked for info on how to set the timing only to find that all the adjustment is supposed to be by tweaking the needle bar height. Well, unless I have a 3 foot needle bar, there's no way I was going to make this thing work. I went looking for how to reset the shuttle driver position. Nothing, absolutely nothing to be found. So, flying blind, I took the bobbin area apart and removed the shuttle driver (those of you familiar with these machines may see the problem at this point). Cleaned everything up and reassembled it based on how the stitch is supposed to form and where things are supposed to be positioned in relation to each other. Got it working right, picking up the bobbin thread just like it's supposed to. Great! I went to give the shuttle driver set screws a final tightening ... and lo and behold, there before my eyes ... a perfectly lined up pin hole in the shuttle driver and hook shaft! Sure would have saved me a lot of trouble if I had known there was supposed to be a pin in there. Now, where to find that pin ...
  9. Thank you. I went through that timing belt process a few months back when I first got the machine. I didn't know how much resistance there should be turning it freehand, but it seemed a little tight. It had been sitting for a decade or more. So I took the belt off in order to turn the top and bottom independently and isolate where any tightness was happening. I found that each the top and bottom rotated pretty freely with the belt off and decided the tightness was just the belt. It runs free and easy with the motor. I'm going to go through the process outlined in the above videos and check each adjustment before I try too much stitching. Partly as self-education and to be as sure as I can that the machine is as close to factory fresh settings as I'm able.
  10. Thanks, guys. I have it stitching pretty fair at this point. I have just a little bit of top thread peeking onto the bottom. Next time I get to sit down with it, I'm going to loosen that bottom tension a 1/16th turn and see how it goes. I haven't gone through all the adjustments yet but it's my next step. Make sure everything is at baseline.
  11. Well, neither of those really. I thought somewhere I read that the feed dog adjustment could affect hook timing. It makes a kind of sense that the different systems on the sewing machine can affect each other. For example, setting the needle bar height is necessary before setting hook timing. I just wondered if there were other things to check before setting the timing.
  12. I'm working on my 111W153 and reading lots of resources. Somewhere on this forum someone mentioned that another adjustment went hand in hand with hook timing (can't remember what, offhand). I'm wondering if there's an order of operations or list of other adjustments to make when looking at hook timing on these 111 machines? My timing seems to be right on but I'm not entirely convinced something else doesn't need to be tweaked. Thanks
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