AlZilla

This pic is part of my desktop and what got me thinking about it. It's a wild bunch 1911 holster. I'm machine sewing but I could stagger the seams a bit.

So, the usual rule around here is to use 277 thread for duty holsters or anything that's going to see heavy use. The formula for seam strength for the lock stitch is: Stitches per inch x thread strength x 1.5 = seam strength. 277 thread has a breaking strength of 45 pounds. 138 is rated at 22 pounds. The question I have is, why couldn't I use 2 seams, closely spaced side by side on the outside edge of a piece using 138 thread? Purely an aesthetic question.

I use one of these things from Amazon to set domestic bobbins to around 25 grams of pull. Not fancy but it works.

Don't even know what a tally book is, but maybe I should start making them. Your stitching is getting steadily better.

I've done that sort of thing a few times. I'd concur, toss it. Consider the cost tuition in your leather crafting education and buy something else. Or, maybe you just like fixing things, which I understand. It's not always about the cost. Is that brand something special?

Thank you!

I ran into a listing for a "Racing Sewing Puller". After I figured out that "Racing" is a brand and not some new sport, I dug into what kind of thing it was. I see where "It is useful for sewing large and heavy workpieces like leather upholstery, tents, and car covers." I could see where it might be useful. But it appears to be used behind any old sewing machine and I'm wondering how the feed rate is coordinated with the sewing machine. It seems like you could overrun or run behind your sewing rate and either pile up material between the two or pull faster than the sewing machine wants to feed. There's a real dearth of information to be found. Anyone know how they work? Just curious, really.

Very nice. Did you record the rest of the work? It'd be interesting to see it through. Thanks!

An overnighter in Evaporust might help.

Don't forget dye and a way to apply it (dauber, dip or airbrush). I'd argue you don't need the tokonole or edge paint, but that's just me. Also, I'd add beeswax. And probably other stuff if I really sat down and thought about it... How about a swivel knife? And a stitch groover? Oh, and you'll need a slicker to do those edges ... What a person needs to get started is one of those questions that could break the internet. Here's a selection I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Jupean-Leather-Supplies-Instructions-Stamping/dp/B07THQ8QM4/ https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Supplies-Stamping-Stitching-Punching/dp/B07QY7CP72/ https://www.amazon.com/Realeather-Leathercraft-Instructions-Materials-Projects/dp/B01AMX0KWC/ I started with the 3rd one for $50. 20/20 hindsight says either of the other 2 would have saved me money in the long run. But that's for the things that I want to make. And a couple of those things from the higher priced kits are in my amazon cart right now to the tune of about $30. I got involved in this because I thought $150 was too much for a new leather hat. $500 and many hours later, I had my $150 hat. (and let's not talk about several thousand $$$ for the sewing machines that followed ..) Good luck with it, it's a rewarding skill to have. And a rabbit hole.

If it's a snub nose 38, a J frame holster should work, assuming it's a 2" barrel. After that, there are hundreds of variations on 38 caliber revolvers, up to 8 3/8" barrels. I've got a generic holster pattern made out of plexiglass that can be modified to fit most anything. If you get desperate, I can trace it onto paper and scan it in.

I haven't regretted starting with a beginners set of leather crafting tools. I've accumulated a lot more since then, but it got me a base of things to start with. My kit included a couple of projects to do, a sheath, wallet, etc.

How tightly can I turn without stopping with a 441 clone? The attached pic shows where my first turn to the left is way too shallow because I was afraid I'd skip stitches. I know on a hard corner I need to stop, raise the needle a 1/4" off dead bottom, turn the material and start sewing again. But at about what degree of turn is the point where I can't just keep running and run a smooth curve? I took this stitch line out and resewed it. Between dark dye and rewetting the leather, the errant holes aren't noticeable.

I'm finding that diluting the Burgundy about 3 or 4 parts of water to 1 of the dye gets a redder color. Something I'm working on attached. I didn't think to save some other scraps where I diluted it so much I got to a salmon kind of color. I'm applying it to wetted leather and find that the dilute mixture goes on well with the wool dauber. EDIT: Actually, the outer edges of that scrap piece are the same dye mixture, just fewer applications.

Well, now my axe is jealous and nagging me to make it a new ensemble. All quite nice work and an inspiration.