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mcguyver42

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About mcguyver42

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    central florida
  • Interests
    homesteading,cooking,cast iron,history,

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    purses,bags and personal items
  • Interested in learning about
    an artisan trade
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet, while researching sewing machines

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  1. I've been looking with interest at the Japanese Oka stitching irons. There doesn't seem to be a lot of information available; Goods Japan is carrying some of their higher end edge tools. Leathertoolz has good things to say about their cutting/ punch board on his you tube channel. Has anyone bought or used the stitching irons
  2. I think the point is value. Are you in a position and have the desire to deliver value? Value doesn't always mean the lowest price; as a matter of fact, value usually costs more, and there are plenty enough people who have learned that. If your expenses are such that you have to compromise, the value goes down, the percentage of repeat business and referrals follow. Here now, you can either scale things back or try to build an image to attract new business. If you don't have the desire to deliver value, well I guess that cant be learned or taught. You simply cash in by working the "spread". Hopefully most craftsman are the folks that have the desire to offer competent service or products at a fair price.
  3. Well like fredk says, I have measuring equipment that would curl your hair, inside and outside micrometers that read to 1 10,000th. (.0001) snap guages and dial indicators, antique German Helios calipers and depth guages in velvet lined wood cases, on and on. That stuff rarely if ever gets used. A cheap 1" mike and 6" caliper with direct read scales is really all most of us need. Truth is, the human hand can easily discern ten thousandth's (.010) of an inch movement which is more than adequate for most everyday things until you start getting into high speed moving parts and then things tighten up a little but not much more.
  4. Spyros, if I read your post correctly, you said that the Sedgewick English bridle leather doesn't accept any kind of a liquid finish very well on the flesh side, but that you are getting a durable glue bond when you line your items? When you go to finish your edges you are using Edge Kote because obviously any type of dye wouldn't match, (not to mention the unpredictable). Do you cut stitching grooves, or just let your stitches lay on top?
  5. You just described my trusty old Red Wing boots on their 3rd pair of soles now!
  6. Well that's interesting stuff, and that glue sure stands the test of time. I don't remember what we used in my good ol wood shop days in the 70's, but I think it must have been something from a bottle. So before the days when wood was painted with plastic, there were a few choices for a finish, and you occasionally hear someone refer to varnish. Is Pearl glue what they are referring to? I wonder if the pearl glue they are selling today is the real deal?
  7. Thanks for the information on the lining. Using the bridle leather, I am making a badge holder with two pockets inside for my brother to wear on his belt. I lined the main shell of the case with pig skin last night. I may have got gotten a little heavy handed with the glue, as I seem to have a little bleed through on the pig skin, but I will see how well it holds.. If the bond fails, I think that I can fairly attribute it to the properties of the leather in general and not to my individual leather. I had to rejuvenate my can of Barge with quite a bit of xylene yesterday, so that may be a factor.
  8. Well, the trouble that I was having was with the waste leather from the trash can. (From my shop in the garage). I thought the damaged leather would be ok for the tests that I was making. The salvaged leather which has been stored under heat and air for several days now with my other leather is beveling ok, and the salvage rate is really closer to 95+ percent. I have not tried burnishing yet. I was reading here that some people have had trouble burnishing Bridle leather, and I have seen the UK Saddlery video where he is using pearl glue and tallow to finish his edges. That guy knows his business, and I am going to try it. I was not familiar with pearl glue (hide glue). I have been meaning to research what kind of glue it was that they used for wood joinery back in the old days, so there is a bonus. I know that it is good practice to store leather inside and out of the light, but I would think leather tanned for such harsh conditions wouldn't react to the heat and humidity the way that mine did. Any ideas on that? I'm still not sure if oiling was a mistake on this type of leather, or what the temper of lighter weight English Bridle leather should be, but it appears that it may be usable for my practice purposes after all. Thanks again, and any input is appreciated.
  9. Hello, I bought a big box of 2- ½-6 oz. Wickett and Craig English Bridle leather scrap to use for practice. By mistake, it got left out in my 90 plus degree, high humidity garage for almost a month. It was now stuck together, dye leaching out of the grain side in places and splotching on the flesh side, and the fibers unraveling on the edges. I cut away the bad parts and saved 90 plus percent of it. I gave every piece a light oiling of Neatsfoot oil rubbed in with a cloth and now wondering if that was a mistake. It seems like the temper is now maybe a little softer than it was? More like a chrome tan bag leather. I cant bevel the edge on the flesh side. It just pulls the fibers up from out of the gum paste. It doesn’t seem like it is going to edge burnish very well either. So are those the normal characteristics of lighter weight English Bridle leather or is it ruined? Thanks in advance
  10. Well, glad that worked out for you, and I'll keep the helicoil tip in mind. Dynamo, I love it!
  11. Ok, Whitworth, I've heard of that but not familiar. Was that a valve body?
  12. Creeping Clarity, well said. Tapping a helicoil to a different thread, I never thought about that. Can they came back out if they need to and then go back in again?
  13. Well that sounds like the best repair. Let us know how your heat imprinter project works out.
  14. The other thing you could do is cut a groove into 2 sides of the threads of the thermocouple fitting, and let it cut it's own threads on the way in. I don't know how well it would ever come apart again, but it would go in and get tight
  15. I was kind of thinking along the same line. I poked around a little bit and didn't really see much in the way of m6 x 1.25 helicoils though. Might be better off to just abandon the thermocouple and look for one without that oddball thread size.
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