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Ashley55

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  1. Thanks everyone for the replies. Wish there was a solution I was missing, but at least I have an idea that it might just be the leather. It does tool and dye nicely, so maybe I'll just have to stick with antiquing if I want any definition to my tooling. Wish I hadn't bought a whole double shoulder, but I live so far from any stores so try and make it worth it when I travel there. I'd like to try some Herman Oak or Wickett- Craig, but nowhere around sells it so have to ship it in, will probably try for it once I'm done with this stuff. Those pieces in the picture were just done quickly so I could have something to show. But it looks the same no matter the moisture content. And I stamp on granite, so good and hard surface.
  2. I've been using Tandy leather up until now, its been fine but I wanted to upgrade to something of better quality. I purchased some Belgian veg tanned double shoulder from a nearby store, its very nice BUT it doesn't give off any nice dark burnish when carving and stamping. I've tried several different casing methods (full 24hr in a bag, quick sponge, etc), stamping at different moisture levels, but I still get the same results. I don't know if there is something I need to do differently, or if this is just what I will get from this leather? This is the Tandy leather on top, and new leather below.
  3. I do notice it does lift a bit of colour when applying. But I usually do my stitching after the finish so I haven't had any stitch discolouration happen.
  4. Thanks for the replies. It is indeed the paste and not the gel. And it would seem like there is something wrong with it, it dried to a greenish colour... very strange.
  5. I just got 2 new colours of fiebings antique, light brown and dark brown, and they both look....black? Is there any way to lighten them somehow? I basically now have 3 colours: black, darker black, and very dark black The light brown was also quite runny, not like the thick paste my other colours are. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with it? I mixed it around, but it was still quite liquidy and I could just pour it right out of the bottle. Seemed strange to me
  6. Hmm ok thanks. I don't think it looks all that bad, might look kind of cool, I'll have to play around and see what it ends up looking like.
  7. This may be a stupid question, but bear with me- I'm still learning. I purchased a new hide the other day, I had previously been using Tandy hides but got sick of them constantly having all kinds of marks and scars and whatnot. I found another leather supplier in the area that carries better quality hides (or so I'm told), being in all the covid craziness we cannot go into stores so I asked them to just pick a nice one for me. One thing I noticed is it has this pattern all over it, the darker lines running all through making it look like a desert/alligator. What is this? Is this normal? Will it fade away once I start working with the leather? Or will dying it just accentuate the lines?
  8. Thank you! Very helpful!
  9. Well there goes that thought LOL Today I was buffing some pieces I dyed yesterday. One had a single coat of saddle tan, and the other was black. I coloured up a whole rag with the saddle tan. The black, next to nothing coming off! I prepped them the same way, the only thing that was different was I cut the black piece from the other side of the hide. I'm going to try dying a piece from that side again tomorrow with the saddle tan and see what happens...
  10. Me again! Have been doing all kinds of reading and YouTube watching lately and it seems like people either have the same problem or no problem at all (with lots of dye coming off when buffing). Which leads me to this question: Does the quality of the leather affect how the dye is absorbed and how much pigment gets left on the surface? I will admit, I am using Tandy leather, the cheapest Tandy leather... And with all my reading I've also learned that this is not the best kind of leather to use for most things. So could this also be contributing to my issue?
  11. Thank you all for the excellent advice! I will absolutely try reducing the dye, I think perhaps I was putting it on too thick. I just finished a black piece, just the regular black not the USMC, and buffed and buffed and buffed until finally no dye was coming off. I didnt have any problem with rub off after resolene after that.
  12. Well glad I'm not the only one lol I do use resolene after, but I find that its picking up dye, and even after drying I can rub with a cloth and colour will come off. From what I've read on here the problem is there is still pigment and its getting suspended in the resolene. I will definitely look into buffing mechanically somehow, because I plan to do more dyed pieces but at this rate it will take me forever!
  13. Hi all! So maybe I just need to hit the gym more, or maybe I'm just not doing it right. But after dying a piece it seems like I could buff all day and still get some dye transfer? I use Fiebings pro dye, and let it dry a few days (I do things here and there whenever i get time). I rub with a soft cloth until my arm is on fire, and there is still dye coming off on the cloth. Am I buffing too hard and actually removing the dye and not just leftover pigment? Or maybe not hard enough and there is just a lot of pigment left over? I understand darker colours are trickier, and I am using black, dark brown and saddle tan. I have not tried reducing the dye, but from the sounds of it that might be a good idea. The amount of buffing I'm doing just seems excessive...
  14. Hi all! I have been reading, and reading and reading some more, and I have come to the conclusion that there is no one right answer on how to finish projects! I'm just looking for some reassurance that I am on the right track. I am making nosebands and small saddle bags to hold cell phones. I'm currently using Tan-Kote and Aussie conditioner. Is this enough protection? I know these are not heavy use type items, and aren't intended to be used out in the rain- but could still get wet. So is the Tan-Kote and Aussie enough protection? I'm always worried about water spotting/dye running. I have used resolene in the past but I really dont like the shiny, plastic look. The dye I use is Feibings Pro dye, and also use Angelus acrylic paint.
  15. Awesome, thank you for the suggestion!
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