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About Squilchuck

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    Wenatchee, WA

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  1. Dwight, this forum is made for butting in. Thanks for the advice. I've threatened to dip dye but swabbing is so much easier in my work space. I'll think again. I'll try oiling again. Dying black always comes out good. Thanks. John Ps. Whats so bad about a Glock? Don't own one, just curious.
  2. You must dye before assembling and sewing and molding? I recently made a holster with those steps. Dye job w Feibings pro light brown looked nice, although dying gives me fits to get it even applying w a swab. I hate dying! After wet molding, however, color was darker and uneven. Your's looks great. How'd you do it? John
  3. Thanks everyone for the good advice! --John
  4. Anyone have a surefire way to flatten coasters? I've tried several ways of wetting and pressing, but none seem to work. I'm using 6/7 oz HO leather. You can see in the photo how they develop a slight wave after I thought they were dry and flat. Previous tries ended up slightly cupped. The problem is to press and dry them. I got a few fungus spots from a previous method. -John
  5. When you layer a different color between the yoke and leg, sticking out the bottom of the yoke a 1/4" or so, is your sandwiched layer under the whole yoke or just a strip at the bottom skived to fit smoothly under yoke? Also, in sewing a fringe on the outside, do you put the fringe on top or under the chink body? I've usually put it on top. What looks or wears better? Thanks. --John
  6. Just stitched with this narrow plate and feed dog on my Cobra 4. Works like a charm! --John
  7. I use one like fredk showed. Works great.
  8. Can anyone post a photo of how the hardware mike02130 suggested works? -John
  9. Never have seen such a sale. If you buy at a leather show, you often can get a good show discount if you order in advance of the show. I got my Cobra 4 at the Pendleton show a while back at a good price and saved on shipping charges. Leather Machine is usually at the show. Give them a call to learn about a show deal. Pendleton show coming up first weekend in November. Machines come assembled and they can do a demo. In the past Cobra Steve had done a free class on operation and trouble shooting. --John
  10. Right, hard to make a saddle from photographs on the internet. I can make it if I have a real saddle on hand to measure etc. Need that hardware though.
  11. I've been asked about making a balanced-ride barrel/gaming saddle. I've made six saddles, and had a balanced ride saddle in the past so am familiar w the rigging etc. I recall that most of the saddle follows conventional design, except for the in-skirt rigging, stirrup leather attachments, and a pretty flat seat. Is that right, or are there other different design features? She can loan me a b-r saddle to reverse engineer the construction principles. Another question is where to get the particular hardware for securing the stirrup leathers (large screw etc. for swivel action) and adjusting them (same function as Blevins buckles). Got a source for these? Other suggestions? --John
  12. Weaver used to sell a veg tan w pasted back. Never bought it, but check them out. -John
  13. Seems to me I've seen then on a saddletree catalog. Try Bowden, Timberline, or Chicago Stockyards. I've bought other types of trees from all three so maybe one of them. Randy at Timberline might know who, if he doesn't make them. -John
  14. I didn't read all the posts, but I have a Little Wonder press from Weaver and it sets line 20 and 24 snaps wonderfully easy. Also have dies to set jiffy rivets (never a bent shaft), 104 rivets, and hole punches. Great press - love it! A huge time saver on large projects. --John
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