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About Squilchuck

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    Wenatchee, WA

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  1. A client has a saddle with a Cheyenne roll that is broken on the right third of length. It looks good until you pick up the saddle w the roll. Seat leather, or at least the padded seat cover, is intact. Its broken, separated, at the fold. Other than rebuilding the roll is there a quick fix? I thought putting a bead of Liquid Nails into the broken fold might stabilize it at something less than full strength. Got any better ideas, or think the glue wont work? -John
  2. You could try inserting a dee with leather tab between the bottom of the cantle and top of the jockeys. Screw into the bottom of the cantle. A saddler did that to one of my saddles long before I did leather work. Not sure if your build w lace will leave enough space though. --John
  3. Can I use Renia thinner in Barge TF (toluene free)? Barge thinner has toluene, so defeats the purpose of using the TF. I haven't seen a thinner specifically for Barge TF. -John
  4. I thought I'd seen plenty on this topic a year or more ago, but can't find anything. What's the best way to sharpen a convex edge on a round knife without machines? Sandpaper on a mouse pad? I have a Ken Onion Worksharp but I find it tricky w a round knife. Is there a round knife technique for this machine? Is there a better machine for convex edges? Thanks. --John
  5. Art, I read some of your old posts on glue thinners. Didn't find an answer to this question. I have Renia Top-Fit thinner and wonder if it will work with Barge TF (toluene free) contact cement? I mostly use Top Fit for wet leather, but bought the Barge in a small can in a pinch for cement. Don't want to buy Barge thinner if I don't have to. -John

  6. Squilchuck


    I just posted this on another thread you are on. I've had four made by Bowden from DL measurements and all fit very well. Cost of last one this winter was about $475. The rawhide finish was a big lumpy but smoothable. --John
  7. About trees made from Dennis Lane measurements. I've had four Buster Welch ranch cutter trees made by Bowden from DL measurements and all fit very true. The rawhide work was a bit lumpy in places, but those could be smoothed. The one I had made this last winter of 2020-21 was about $475 as I recall. I had a regular tree from Timberline and it fit well and the finish was very good. -John
  8. Along w Ken's suggestions, the Jeremiah Watt DVD. -John
  9. I made a low-tech one from cardboard. Saw it in Leathercrafters mag. Solid base, build up with pieces with bottle-size hole in middle. About 4"x6". Never a spill and a place to set your swabs. John
  10. On most larger strap items I'll machine sew one side of the loop, use clinched shoe nails to attach the other side of the keeper, then put a stitch or two between keeper and buckle. Will hand stitch that fine stitching through small items if I have to, but what a pain. -John
  11. Try Weaver leather.
  12. How were the trees from Timberline "custom"? I've bought four trees from Bowden made custom per Dennis Lane measurements, but Timberline doesn't make from DL measurements last time I bought one from them. My limited experience from both brands (5 saddles) is similar - the finish on the Timberline wade tree was much better than the seam finish on Boden trees, some of which I had to build out and smooth. However, the Bowden DL custom trees fit perfect. John
  13. TF also has a strong smell, but I assume it is less toxic without T. Same with Renia Top Fit which I use too. I wear a respirator and have a vent fan. I'll use both when I have to glue wet leather, like in saddle making, but otherwise I switched long ago to Renia water-based glues. They work great - no toxic smell, apply easily, and bond great. I've had no problems with gluing dry, then wet molding after a brief dunk in warm water eg for a holster. -John
  14. Hmm, not sure about forward leaning. The book has some good info on fender design. Their shape is unique. I've made a few saddles, so am no super expert, but found good guidance on making fender patterns in the Harry Adams book. A simpler sleeker design. Seems like different styles of saddles have different shaped fenders. Make one that fits the design and function of your saddle, and looks good to you. --John
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