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Squilchuck

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About Squilchuck

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    Wenatchee, WA

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  1. 104 rivets are self-piercing set with a Little Wonder or larger press from Weaver. Well worth the investment. You can set with a cap or splash anvil. The 104 setter die comes w the Little Wonder. I think you have to buy the anvil to set caps. --John
  2. I'm setting 104 rivets with a Little Wonder press. I've tried all kinds of adjustments to set 8/16" steel rivets straight but they nearly always twist or bend. Shorter rivets set fine. Any suggestions? - John
  3. I've made four. First one I decided to make the Stohlman #1 saddle and follow the detailed and excellent instructions and tool list. Lots of ways of doing things, so simpler to follow "the recipe" the first time if you don't have a teacher, even though its said some of his methods are old fashion especially all-leather ground seats. Since then I've mixed up methods from Watt and Adams (eg fitting seat, cutting patterns) to find methods that work for me. For trees, three of the saddles have custom Bowden trees made from measurements taken w Dennis Lane system w my horses. Other custom tree makers using the DL system are more expensive. I've been satisfied w Bowden trees. Another tree is a Timberline wade, which is nice and Randy will work w you to get the right tree. I only use Herman Oak 11/13oz #1 skirting leather. My farrier, who has made saddles for 40 years, gave me plenty of advice. Lots of good advice in the archives of this group, too. Good luck! -John
  4. Buy the Stohlman belt making book from Tandy. Cheap. It will answer your questions and much more. Great investment if you are making belts -John
  5. There is one in the Stohlman saddle-making book Vol 1, if you have it. I could scan the page if no one has one handy to send. -John
  6. I have always used regular solvent-based rubber cement (mostly toulene-free Barge blue can) to glue fleece to saddle skirts, but I'm getting tired of the fumes. I long ago switched to Aquilim 315 as my contact cement, except for using Renia Top Fit solvent cement for wet leather, so wonder about a switch to Aquilim rubber cement. Renia has two types of "rubber cement" - the GL and SG products. Anyone know which one would be best for fleece? I'm guessing the more permanent GL bond would be stronger, but wonder if future saddlers will be able to easily remove it in 10-15 years to replace a fleece? The SG cement seems to have a weak bond suitable for very temporary applications like sewing, so I wonder if the fleece would lift off the skirt with use. What do you think? Aquilim GL or SG for fleece gluing? --John
  7. I've molded phone cases, knife sheaths and gun holsters (pistols, rifle) using Stohlman's methods as described above, but use a bone folder for sheaths. I soak only for less than a minute in warm water, then let case an hour or so for sheaths. For holsters I stick the gun in a few minutes after setting then shape with fingers. Leather weights are from 6-9 oz. -- John
  8. Sold a while back. -John
  9. Not sure what the Boss can handle, but I use 346 or 277 on top and 277 bottom. -John
  10. Here's a photo. She wants top grain leather but no stitching (good). The padding feels OK. I'll decide on replacing padding when I disassemble, but probably should replace since it will be apart. I've read about padding others use, but not sure of the best option. A question - could I get away with not pulling the seat off the cantle dish and still lift it enough to hand sew? -John
  11. Glad to find this old topic. I've managed to not fix any seats, but want to do a favor for one of the young kids in our club. A learning experience! I've made a few saddles but never with an added seat leather or padding. Keith's instructions are good, but a couple questions. Can I use rubber cement effectively instead of contact cement? Stohlman uses rubber cement in his saddle making book. Seems like rubber cement is more forgiving w a novice like me, but I wonder about sticking over the life of the saddle. Seems like it should w a rider sitting on it? Stitching repairs is always tricky getting in the old holes. Any tips for doing that? I have a machine, but can hand sew if best. - John
  12. I'm in Washington so don't know much about your area. But, there's Pedro Pedrini at Hamleys in Pendleton. You might ask at Oregon Leather store in downtown Portland. They also have a leather shop. --John
  13. Thanks for the photos -a great illustration. Under the leather covering is the shaped styrafoam you mentioned? -John
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