Hags

I just got a pfaff 130. It needed a little work but with you tube I got it going pretty quick. I paid $300 for a very nice unit. When I say it needed work I mean I had to unstick the selector knob. I sewd though 8 layers of heavy canvas before I "fixed"it. Can't imagine it would have an issue with a wallet. I have a cobra class 3 for my holsters and gun belts though. I got this for wallets, canvas and leather aprons, and dang it, it was just too cool to pass up! I'll post pics later. I mention this because you can find these around for not too much, they are German steel, and have a lot of info on working on them. I hear of people getting these at yard sales but good luck with that. Oh, and mine does have a hand crank so when the power is out I can still sew!

I recently acquired a vacuum set up. Love it!

Very nice! And I have to say very ambitious. Holsters were a stretch for me. Great job!

Me too! I'm in Sequim, way west side. Hope to see more of you!

Very nice. I see another use for scrap and my logo in the near future.

Looks very cool! I have to try this for my old Stetson!

That is one of the great things about leather working. Very fulfilling when you do something like this.

Very nice! Love the flag. I use a couple of lead "muffins". Left over lead from decoy weights. I put some leather on the bottom. Gotta weigh 3 or 4 lbs.

Thank you, this is a direct result of you sharing you design process.

Made this for a S&W 44 Combat mag. Black is not my favorite color. I get retention from the back of the holster, around the top of the cylinder, and the trigger guard.

Nylon just seemed to work better, no reason it couldn't be leather. I just felt it would be softer around the back, personal choice I guess. Also, leather would require a buckle of some sort? Again personal choice. The leather strap on the left is a belt loop that goes to the belt that holds the holster taut during the draw. I found that without it, you could draw the weapon, but it was a much longer/sloppier process. With even a loose belt attachment, the draw is much shorter and eliminates the desire to use the opposite hand to help. It's the thinner strip in the photo on the cutting mat. I put a line 20 snap on the belt end, the one with 2 smaller holes. The other end is for a Chicago screw adjustment with room for adjustment by the customer. Also, I make them for just about every gun you can imagine. If you can make a holster for it, you can make it a chest rig. My niche here on the Olympic peninsula is hunters that pack out game, backpackers that can't use a hip holsters, equestrians that the saddle interferes with a pancake holster, people that can't wear a pancake holster for various reasons, and I've heard a bunch of reasons.. I hope this helps.. ,

Check out my post for a chest rig for a glock 19 above 3/10/21. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I build a bunch of of these. Would be happy to help.

I use Chicago screws to connect it all together 1 inch welded rings and YKK buckle on the right. I've had one customer buy 2 holsters, and just swap them out. That is heavy 1 inch nylon webbing. I use Hermann Oak 7/8 oz for the holster and HO 4/5 for straps and attachment loops, 7/8 for the back tringular (almost) piece.

He's picking this up today. I'll try to remember to get pics. Here's pics of the front and back, and how it goes together. I've enclosed a pic of all the parts and pieces on a grid background for reference I also included a the modified pancake pattern for the attachment points. The patterns I make using jlsleather.com method. He is a contributor here and his write ups are free and well worth the money!

He's picking this up today. I'll try to remember to get pics.