Samalan

I agree I use a piece of glass 3/8" thick 4"x 12 " with wet dry it works great I like to keep sharpening separate from other work as it tends to get a bit messy .

I use a 400 diamond 2" X 6" then white bar strop some folks say white bar is to course not for me, for me it's time my method is very fast and it would be rare to need anything sharper I use this method for wood carving tools, leather round knife, swivel knife, hunting and tactical knifes, Technique is always important always remember when you are sharpening you are shaping as well because you are removing metal all the time. as far as sharp go's I had a friend who was a woodworker like myself, one day he came over to my shop to see how the carving job I was doing for him was coming along. He said he just bought a Tormack sharpening system said I really need to get one I told him that's ok I'm all set, my tools are sharp enough, as he was reaching across my bench to take a tool from the tool roll I had out he said ya but how sharp can you keep all these things. Everyone who uses these "things" knows you never cut yourself when using one, it's when your reaching for one, next thing I know he's bleeding on everything yelling wholly shit those are f---king sharp. I said yes very, and we laughed like hell, a few years back my good friend past away. He was a wonderful cabinet maker and Friend. Sorry about the story. but when I think sharp LOL I think of that day.

Dremmel tool with diamond burr cut serrations across inside clasp then on the leather cut serrations like a v groove side to side then epoxy, the epoxy should go inside the clasp first so when you push the leather in it pushes the epoxy into clasp don't use to much but you need enough to get into the serrations sometimes you can tape the leather but not veg leather clear system 3 epoxy works good an epoxy paste even better you can color epoxy also hope this helps good luck with that project .

Depending on your height so the work top would be about half way between your wrist and elbow then it should be right for you. hope that helps

If you have a 30" stool you should have 1 foot from the top of the bar sorry I meant the top of the workbench to the top of the stool head this witch would end up 42" same as your favorite bar 42" then you can make some bottle steps for when friends come over by the way the overhang should be 12" from the front edge of the Chicago Roll to the front of the die forget the roll that could get in the way for leather work . Actually my bench is 40" it's a great working height I stand while cutting and doing layout work and 40" saves my back any stamping work is done In an 18" office chair and 30" bench height woodcarving is done on the 40" bench also no drinking though but if I did it would be at the 42" bar.

Nice job !

Insulation, heat, air conditioning, lighting, and, ventilation, finishing area with a small spray booth and or table for finishing, with vent to outside. Maybe a shower curtain surround to keep the finish in the finish area. Not sure where your location is but these things can be crucial as I'm sure you know. Other than that it looks great some great things can come out of a shop that size. Best of luck with it.

Nice holster very similar to one I made also a 44 mag Ruger Blackhawk Nice work on the sheath to.

Speedy Dry from the auto store put some in a bucket put whatever has to much oil on it in the bucket then cover with speedy dry over night and bam that should do it. .

How much do you need.

wow that's a nice machine wish i could be a help to you but because it could be so many things it's beyond me can you call the dealer you got it from or ask a dealer near by maybe they could help In any case best of luck to you

Not sure what type of machine you have but the Cobra or Cowboy guys are the best and are more than willing to help. also Wizcrafts on this sight who knows everything one would need to know about that problem and I'm sure has it's on this sight somewhere sorry I could not be of more help.

yes that's true I go very fast and almost catch the hand wheel and things turn out fine, I leave the eps in up pos because a lot of times I have got that extra down throw just when I don't need it LOL if I need it down I'll pull it down.

Also I think set the eps in the up setting to complete the stitch when I do corners like that I hand wheel the one or two stitches to get around the corner in some cases I use very small calipers to layout stitch length and coming to an end to divide up the space and have never had a problem.

Needle thread size sound good did the screw in the bobbin case come loose or is it adjusted correctly