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About Tequila

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Diamondhead, MS
  • Interests
    CAS, leather work, reloading, rv’ing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Carving, sewing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. Thanks, for what I’m doing getting a dyed through high end leather would greatly improve it’s appeal.
  2. I wrote to Buckle Guy and this was the answer that they sent: Thanks for reaching out. The leather itself would be great for wet molding, but that would be a pretty thin weight. We would recommend either going with a thicker option, or at the least, adding a second layer of that leather. I’m leaning with @Heartless (at least for the first couple) since it’s a new mold and I want to take some of the variables out.
  3. I’ve got a mold that I’ll be using and plan on using 2-3 ounce leather precut panels. I’m looking at some panels here on Buckleguy Has anyone tried using Vachetta leather in a wet mold? If so was it able to hold it’s shape? thanks
  4. I’ll just add this reminder, keep the angle low. When I first started I was sharpening at too steep of an angle, then I found a little trick. If you can find a book of matches, the angle of the matchbook (closed) is about the angle your blade should be to the stone/sandpaper/strop. Lotsa luck!
  5. Does anyone have any experience with Leather Craft Pattern? They are out of Hong Kong and sell on the internet.
  6. @LiftPig it’s too bad that you had all those problems, but on the bright side you now know that machine well and if something ever comes up again you’ll be confident you can fix it. Thanks for the videos and keeping us up to date.
  7. I like it, nice rounded top, that’s what I’m after. Your creativity and inventiveness never cease to amaze me.
  8. Let me know how it works!
  9. This is what I was thinking when I say a bead
  10. Let me start off by saying that I’m not that great, only a hobbier and only make things for myself or to give away. I haven’t been able to do any leather work for almost a year and thought I’d get back into it slowly by making some coasters. My thought is to have a bead around the edge. In the past when I tried to get that look I would cut a line with a swivel knife and then hand stamp using a beveler. It not only took time but I never really got the look that I was trying for. I saw that Barry King sells beader blades for a swivel knife, has anyone tried them? If you don’t use that what do you use? I saw that sometimes Bruce Johnson has a push beader in stock, would it be better for me to wait till he has one again? Thanks for the insight
  11. I’m with kgg on this. Maybe these manuals will be of some help Juki LS-341N InstructionManual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf
  12. I guess that would depend on how hairy your leg was
  13. Frodo, Frodo, Frodo are you OK? Maybe this would be a good time to remind her that you need a shop so that never happens again.
  14. @Bullduke the customer service is exactly what I bought a 26 from them a couple of years ago. I had a problem with mine (no where near as bad as yours) that was self induced. But when I called up LMC they took the time to walk me through the repair and even sent pictures of the parts I needed to adjust. I’m glad to hear that they were so helpful. I for one would love to know what they found with the machines when they got them back. Now that you’re moving to a Class 4 you might want to get with some of the members about a part that RockyAussie sells for the 4 that expands the sewing capabilities.
  15. I got this advice when I was looking for my first machine and it’s proven to be oh so true, you can turn a cylinder machine into a flatbed, but you can’t turn a flatbed into a cylinder. For leather the cylinder works great, but when I have the odd upholstery work I add the table attachment.
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