Goldshot Ron

Well, since no one responded to your questions I'll try to give you some advice. First, the average length of the bars for saddles is about 23 inches. As you push the cantle back to make the seat larger, you don't increase the length of the bars. So this places the center of balance for the rider out of alignment to the horse's center of balance. The overall length of the skirts is usually around 27 to 28 inches in length. If the skirts are longer, you'll need a larger pad (duh), but often overlooked. With a longer and larger pad, you start interferring with the hips of the horse, another possible sore spot for the horse. I recently ran into this problem with a saddle that I built, and I am now remaking the skirts to fit the horse, not the rider or saddle style. Hope I didn't bore you, but, you may want to consider a draft cross for your primary steed Tex. Ron

If the buckle end of the strap is tearing, then eventually the strap will fail at the buckle tongue. How are you cutting the strap end? What type of leather and thickness are you using? I would recommend using 9 oz. harness leather for single ply headstalls. It can be dyed to the color you choose, or left natural, and it will darken over time. When purchasing Tandy Leather Factory leather, be very careful in your selection, and by all means ask the clerk for their help. Of course, this is true when purchasing anything.

What style of bridles are you making? Since there are many styles it is hard to give you any advice. As far as the ends splitting on your first bridle, can you explain this better. Also, the edging tools that Tandy sells are not very good for people who want good edges. CS Osborne tools is where you would start, then work up from there. One final suggestion, is to look up Bob Park's blog on this site for burnishing edges. It'll give you good insight on how to finish your edges. Good luck

Saddle looks real good. I like your burnished edges. Your seat jockey lines up well with the cantle and fork. It's time for a grain out saddle and some tooling. A couple of questions: is the ring on the latigo catcher for a rope or your breast collar? And, your hand hole appears a little small; maybe it's just the photo. Keep up the excellent work. Ron

First, take the saddle apart at the jockeys by removing the rosettes or conchos. Next, clean the saddle well with saddle soap. After it dries, lightly oil the saddle with neatsfoot oil (100%, no fancy stuff). Let the saddle sit for a day or so and look at your color. It this hasn't brought back some consistant color, then I'd redye the saddle. Start out with a light brown or tan before going for any darker colors. After dying, a second coat of oil may be all you need to bring the saddle back to a good appearance. Good luck, Ron

I use Elmer's rubber cement. I used to use Barge in the blue can, but I can't seem to get that in California anymore (clean air laws). I tried Tandy's rubber cement, made by Barge, but it never set up like it should have (junk!!!!). Ron

Sounds good. Cutting new fillers makes the job easier as far as lining up stitch holes. Go for it....

Matt, The important part of skirt alignment would be to put the bottom edges toward the middle of the skin. This gives more padding under the lower part of the bars. Many of the old timers feel that the head to butt theory is better; but, what I've learned is "...what works best for you" counts. On the saddle that sored up your mare, check the bottom of the skirts for nails and tie string bumps. It is not uncommon to find bent nails in mass produced saddles. Feel for these nails in the rear section of the bars under the cantle area. Also, when installing the wool to the skirts, use rubber cement, not contact cement. Make sure that your skirt fillers are glued back in proper position to line up you stitch holes. And, don't forget to resew any bar pockets before you get too carried away with gluing on you wool ( I speak from experience). Good luck, Ron

Matt, Just a couple quick questions: how many sheep skins did you buy? and, have you read the many comments on how to lay out your sheep skins in relationship to your skirts? Depending on the size of the skirts you'll need 10 square feet minimum and maybe larger hides for each set of skirts. Good luck, Ron

Try: www.dhrss.com There phone no. is 970-482-6229 in Ft. Collins, CO. Owner is Mark Howes. His son makes the trees.

Joel, I live in the Idyllwild area, and if you want to take a trip, you're more than welcome to visit my little shop. I've got some trees you can look at, photos, and saddles that I've made. Now, I'm not trying to sell a saddle, but offering any advice that might help you. I think I know the maker you mentioned, and I've repaired a few of his saddles. Anyway I can share with you some ideas about where to start...oh yeah, and confuse even more about trees, designs, rigging, etc... Ron

Dwight, I just read your question, and I am wondering how your saddle project is coming along? Ron

Kelly, I would recommend that you recover the horn cap, then add a horn wrap which would cover the bare stem of the horn. This way, you wouldn't have to remove the fork cover which can be a bear of a job, and may even require a whole new fork cover in the end. There are a couple of "how to's" in the Leatherworker and Saddle Maker Journal, or Dusty Johnson covers this in his saddle making book (about $20.00). Ron