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About joppstack

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  • Birthday 12/02/1967

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  • Location
    Port Orange Fl.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    horse equipment
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  1. I have a Bairds leather secrets in excellent condition. I also have a Bairds Design Artistry full size book like the leather secrets with full size pull out patterns. I PM'd you.
  2. One set is sold. I still have one 4 blade set and the bissonette set still available.....
  3. Jeremiah Watt Horseshoe brand quick changer edger set for sale..... I have 2 brand new sets in bag and never used. These have tempered tool steel blades and are pre-sharpened and ready to use. Includes handle and edger blade sizes 0,1,2,4. They sell for over $50.00 per set. I will take $35.00 per set with shipping included in the US. I can take Paypal or CC. I also have one bissonnette style set that includes the handle and 2 blades. These are also brand new. The blade size is not stamped but they look like size 2. I will take $23.00 for this set with shipping included in US. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7fpRgoYEQZ2MmwzS01fbGJROHc/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7fpRgoYEQZ2SHJFdEJHTl9neVU/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7fpRgoYEQZ2YUszRVE2b0pWSlE/view?usp=sharing
  4. Thanks for the reply Wiz... you have some great ideas. I am starting to think it may be the check spring. This machine I have had since new and it is about 16 yrs old now and has the original check spring. I have another one of the same machine that is much newer and the check spring seems much stiffer than on the older machine. Is there a way to adjust the tension of the spring or do I need to just find a new one and replace it. It seems like it would be pretty simple to change it out from the way it looks... Thanks again for your insight...Neil
  5. I have an Adler 205-370 which I have used for years with great results. Lately when I am sewing heavy leather.. 1/2" plus, and I get to the end and reverse to back stitch it is not picking up the bottom thread. It sews fine going forward and does fine on leather not so heavy. I have checked the timing and it is good. Any ideas? Thanks...Neil
  6. Sylvia had alot of great points.... I agree Cylinder arm, just a much more versitile machine.
  7. I have an Adler 205-370. I can sew from 1/2" thick veg tan to 5oz chap leather without making any adjustments while still producing a very nice stitch. I have smaller machines but the Adler does such a nice job I end up using it most of the time. I bought the machine new about 15 years ago, it is used several hours a day six days a week and I have never had any problems with it. It is more costly then many others but I guess you get what you pay for.
  8. If you can't find a tutorial or even if you do, I would suggest finding an old saddle. Something you can pick up for $50 or $75 maybe with a broken tree. Use this as a practice saddle, to take apart and learn how it is constructed. No need to worry because you can't screw it up. You would be suprised how much you will learn just by doing this. It will be well worth the money you spent buying it. Good luck.... Neil
  9. The Adler also gets my vote. I have a few machines but the Adler is my favorite. I have a 205-370 that I've had for 12 years or so. It's used several hours a day, six days a week. Not once have I ever had any problems with it. I can sew chap leather, 2 or 3 layers of skirting or layers of nylon or fleece with almost no adjustments. It's well worth the cost to have a machine that will work for you day after day without any problems. Hope this helps..... Neil
  10. That Randall machine looks really slick... Any idea what one would go for.. new or used?... Neil
  11. They look really nice... Hair-on stuff is always cool!!... Keep up the good work.. Neil
  12. Does anyone know where I can buy an edging machine that will round all 4 edges at once? I found a manual one that Weaver sells but that is the only one that I can find. Any info would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks.... Neil
  13. Keith... Thanks for the great tips I'm definitely going to put them to use. I have never tried using tacks or staples. I always thought they would leave holes you could see in the suede. Also, what type of glue do you use? I have been using barge cement, Is there something better? I have to do a stingray seat this Friday and I want to make sure to get things just right... If you screw up with this it's game-over, Its just barely big enough to fit. Also keeping the spine lined up and centered I'm sure will be a real joy!! Thanks again.... Neil
  14. I was wondering if any of you had some tips on replacing the suede seat in a saddle? I've done a few but would love some tips to make the job a little easier. One problem I have is after I remove the old suede, I try to lay it out to make a pattern to cut out the new one. Sometimes it's really hard to get an even pattern because the old seat is stretched and doesn't lay very flat. Is this how most of you do it or do you make a paper pattern? Trying to pull it tight and keep the wrinkles out while keeping both sides even is really a chore. On the sides I try to drop it down about a 1/2" below the old stitch holes but around the top by the handhold it's hard to keep a nice stitch because I keep hitting the old holes. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.... Neil
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