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  1. Good points gents.. Thanks. as a long shot I'm ordering some Hydro and doing self testing.
  2. Im looking for a leather or faux leather that I can use as a tag, that's heat stamped (no foil) with a logo and then riveted to garments -- that can hold up for the life of the garment/washings. Would some type of Chrome tanned or faux leather work? If not... any suggestions how to accomplish that look? I tried https://lonestaradhesive.com/ she replied with "For embossing, your best option would be to source a genuine leather. The leatherette would likely expand and retract during the washing process, weakening the imprint of your logo over time." I seriously doubt any veg-tanned leather would hold up. That's why I was thinking chrome. Some chrome leather is so treated it won't even burn using the embosser. I have some that while holding the emboss stamp against it at 130 degrees for 20 seconds, applying full downward pressure, hardly even imprints the stamp. If I do that to veg tanned it'll burn and with crispy edges in 7 seconds.
  3. Made for a religious friend. Admittedly lots of room for improvement... but not bad for a 1st ever. I rather liked the macabre blood vent hole....
  4. @tsunkasapa So on inquiry to the seller, I just found out this leather was alum tanned or lace tanned. That's different than the normal latigo conbination tanning and would be better suited for sealant / conditioner?
  5. @Dwight Thanks for that. I just ordered some to try. That and this other stuff called Fosshape Black 400 by Wonderflex https://www.wonderflexworld.com/ I'm pretty sure the Kydex is going to be the best solution tho.. I'll report back with pics...
  6. I'm playing with making my first knife sheath --using brown Latigo. I added some splotchy black to give it some character that I like a lot. Not sure about how flat matte it looks... so tried a test piece using straight saddle soap to seal / condition it but it seemed to darken it too much --so I withheld adding it to the sheath. --from what I've read latigo is impregnated with fats and oils so adding a finish is not recommended? but this stuff seems dry as a bone. I doubt diluted resolene will work. Should I just leave it be not try for a finish or sheen?
  7. Not working. Soaked in cold and soaked in heated water. Same outcome. NO stiffy. Plan B -- anyone know of an ultra thin plasticy material I can heat and mold into a sort of one side flattened oval and then place inbetween the outter Crazy Horse and an ultra thin goatskin liner? UPDATE!! Just tried the above water test. It's Chrome. Boo. Oh well. But the GOOD NEWS -- I found this stuff. PERFECT Thermos form thing plasticy material I can shape and use as a form inbetween the leather out and inner line! YIPPEE! https://www.wonderflexworld.com
  8. I'll try the soaking method... thanks for the feedback. I'll report back the results after some investigation on how I soak it in cold water properly.
  9. I suppose I could always sandwich some sort of stiffener used in garment making in between a liner layer and the crazy horrse.. but that's way more invloved.
  10. I heard that wax is a method but not to do it bc it has a nasty habit of leeching out and permanently staining whatever it was on -- like car seats, furniture clothing etc.
  11. Making a sunglass case for a friend....Anyone have some experience in stiffening Crazy Horse leather? Can it even be done? Cold water soak? Resin coating?
  12. Actually --what helped was finish stitching the other side --doing so managed to pull the internal dividers that way just enough to clear. Sorry... for the freak out, it was my first zippered wallet and the thought of 'losing' all the prior assembling work had me panic'd
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