Goldshot Ron

If these are not client saddles, their value is basically as a learning experience on how to repair a saddle like this if you even have a customer that wants such a saddle repaired. I would not spend the money or time to repair them. Techniques in construction and design have changed since these saddles were built. It has been my experience that only a few people appreciate old saddles enough to buy one after you repair it. They were built for the showring, and not as a pleasure or ranch saddle.

You mentioned Weaver, I have used Weaver for over 16 years, and find that they have almost all of the items I need. However, they are reluctant to give you wholesale prices if you don't do over $1200 of orders in a year. If you haven't already done so, you need to order a catalog from them to see everything they carry. Internet searches for them missed a lot of items. Springfield Leather is another company that is starting to ramp up their inventory. Good Luck. Ron

More information on the leather. The tannery of this leather is unknown to me, but the tannage is similar to Joseph Clayton and Sons, in London. I do have some sides available if larger sections are needed.

Selling several large pieces of English saddle leather approximately 10/11 once or 3-3.5cm thick. Colors are: black, brown (pebbled), and dark brown with natural grain. Sizes are 18x29 inches, 24x16 inches, and 24x30 inches. Also 3 additional pieces approximately 12x12 inches. Asking $100 includes shipping within the US. Photo 1 is of the larger pieces. Photo 2 is of the 3 additional pieces, and photo 3 shows the grain of the larger pieces. These were used for billet repairs. PM here for more details. Thanks, Ron

I agree with Bruce. You would be better off doing it over. There are too many things that are not installed correctly and finished off properly.

The spring snap you posted looks like a number 200, but the buckle isn't anything I can find. Montana Leather has the snaps, and the only center bar buckles that they show are a number 121 or a 150 (roller bar). I use them for leather and they are responsive to questions. I recommend them.

Tom, Beautiful work, as always.

Very inventive Tom. I bought a stirrup plate for my machine to try to sew the rounded throatlatches, but I haven't tried it yet to see if it works. Continue with your good work.

Tom, The bridle looks great. All hand sewn is impressive. Are you using a pricking iron or awl?

I am reluctant to comment, because I may stir up a hornets nest. Your post appears that you are looking at a new saddle, or at least a factory made saddle. The saddles to look at, in my opinion, are: Circle Y, Colorado Saddlery, Martin, Crates, and Billy Cook. These are factory made, and can be repaired fairly easily. You should be able to pick up a fairly decent used saddle for $2200, but have a reliable saddle repair shop check it for you. There are many good used custom made saddles out there, but that requires time to check them out. Another good company to consider is McCall Saddlery. They are a small shop, but their saddles are well put together (A plus in my book). In Montana, there are so many good saddle makers, you couldn't help but hit one by swinging a dead cat over you head and letting it fly. My humble opinion, for what it is worth.

Could you stamp some leather images with these stamps so we can better see their pattern? Thanks

Since you are using a metal seat strainer, the best tutorial that I have found is Jeremiah Watt's DVD on saddle making. There are a couple of videos on You Tube that may be helpful: one is David Mills video. The one problem with buying a strainer from Weaver is that their strainers may be too short for a seat over 15 inches. A good source for strainers is Montana Leather. There, you can talk with someone that can measure the strainer to make sure it will fit your saddle before you purchase it. I have taken to making my own strainers from 22 ga. stock that you can find in a hardware store (i.e. True Value). This way you can cut it to fit the length, width, and stirrup slots to match your tree bars and your purpose. Ron

This is for Klara's sake: draw with a pencil on paper your designs to feel the flow. You are able to erase and save leather at the same time. A sharp blade in a swivel knife is always a given, so I do not give advise expecting that people are still in kindergarten. If you are trying to tool leather, you should know how to case it; and, Bob Parks example above is worthless. Everyone has an opinion, and my advise above is from a class that I had with Al Gould, a Master Saddle Maker and Leather Artist. When practicing with the swivel knife (ON LEATHER, Klara) I have seen people use a damp sponge, a spray bottle (with H2O), and a number of other methods that worked for them to case or moisten the leather. Greg, you need to obtain a good instructional book or video to show you some examples of using the swivel knife. Also, if you can't draw a pattern on your own, copy from someone you respect. And, Practice, practice, practice.

Greg, I like your lacing, and it appears that you have holster design down. An instructor in a class told us to work on making "s"s and "c"s. Start by burying the tip of the blade, and make an "s" as you gradually lighten up on the pressure and feather out you cut. It looks like you are applying too much pressure with your blade, thus your wrist and hand locks up. Also, are you practicing on paper first to save on leather? Good luck, Ron

Dahhhh, correction on contact cement from above post. It is not Lyon's contact cement, but Master's Contact Cement (with a lion on the label).

Mike, I use Elmore's Rubber cement for temporary bonding. Removes from grain side easily. I do not recommend Tandy's Tanner's Bond; it doesn't perform like they say. I have been using Lyon's contact cement, and it works well. The original Weldwood contact cement was good, but we can no longer get that in the Nanny State of California.

Tom, That is one of Al Stohlman's books I do not have. My rounding method is basically self-taught. And, because I do not make rounded pieces very often, it is "hit and miss" when I do. One question, and I apologize if you mentioned and I didn't read your article well enough, but what is the finished diameter of your throatlatch when finished? My rounder's largest hole is 1/2 inch. Thanks, Ron

Tom, I looked at your instructions for the rounded throatlatch, and find your method very helpful. Your halter looks very professional, and I will certainly use your tutorial. I cannot tell you how many attempts of rounded throatlatches have found their way into my trash. Thank you, Ron

Hil, I hear your concern, but it is difficult to mark on a saddle everything that you are describing. When I make a saddle for a customer, most of them get bored listening to my tree speech, and care less about who made the tree. As Bruce mentioned, once a saddle is made, one is hard pressed to figure out the tree measurements. So, when looking at a saddle with no identification pertaining to the maker or tree, (and even if it has a maker's stamp) it is still buyer beware. Ron

Joel, I was wondering just the other day if you had finished that case. It looks really good. It shows that you took a lot of time in your design and pattern work. Great job. Ron

Looks real good for only your second saddle. I don't like cross over rope straps, and they don't fit a swell fork like they do a slick fork. But hey, it can be changed. Keep up the good work.

My 3000 has it's electric cord in a box on the (facing the machine) right/back corner. I have been clumsy on occasion to hit this against my tool cabinet, thus breaking the box and pulling the cord loss from its connection within the box. It may be worth your time to check this if your machine is similar to mine.

I have a small crock pot, approximately 1/2 quart size (found at a garage sale for a buck). I put the oil in a jar and warm it as you would a baby bottle in the crock pot. Just remember to unplug when you finish (experience speaking).

Joel, Are these for Blevins Buckles? If they are, I'll take them off of your hands. Ron

Around here, horn wraps are decorative, so I use latigo. However, the last piece of mule hide I purchased was just long enough for one decent wrap. Luckily, I didn't screw up on it, because I don't believe I would have had a longer section to cover a mistake. Your story about hay haulers is similar to farriers around here. They are few and far between. Good luck on your saddle, Ron