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About Gosut

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  • Location
    Southern US
  • Interests
    History, writing, reading, science.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Just starting out. Likely sheaths and belts, maybe wallets.
  • Interested in learning about
    Stitching, molding, applying rivets and snaps, dying and finishing leather.
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  1. I was looking through knife sheath making videos on YouTube for a refresher when I found one using magnetic name badge clasps to retain the knife. The clasps were sandwiched in leather to prevent contact with the blade. It made a thicker sheath, but it might could be made thinner. Has anyone here done this? It looks like it could be adaptable to sheaths resembling 19th Century styles (thinking Bowie knife here). Having doubts about retention strength, but wondering if I could make a mock-up with magnets on a 3 oz piece of leather with a knife on the underside and add magnets until it had good retention. Would there be any long-term adverse effects like(collecting ferrous debris over the magnets?.
  2. When a coworker nudged me at a meeting, I was glad I didn't say "Amen!"
  3. What is a good mallet/maul weight for stitching chisels and hole punches? I have a nylon mallet that weight between 10 and12 ounces / 284 and 340 grams and don't seem to have a great deal of difficulty using it to drive stitching chisels through 8 ounce leather, but hole punching could be better. Yes, I intend to sharpen the hole punches, but in the back of my mind are a couple of projects with heavier leather weight. This has me wondering if I should move up to a heavier mallet. I'm considering a 24 ounce / 680 gram poly mallet, then got the notion of a split head mallet because it could have a heavier weight plus replaceable nylon faces. One I'm looking at is 2 pound (32 ounces / 907 grams). That's the same weight as a framing hammers we used, though we did most of our work with 1 pound hammers (16 ounces / 454 grams). The weight of mallet I have now is roughly the same as the finishing hammers we used. Comments? Opinions? Again, this is for stitching chisels and hole punches, not tooling or setting snaps or rivets. Thanks in advance.
  4. I never see my preacher's eyes He hides their light divine. For when he prays he closes his, And when he preaches, mine.
  5. As luck would have it, that's what I'm considering now. Toying with the notion of making a thicker work belt and/or reversible belt, and both will require stitching. Daunting to say the least.
  6. I did on my first two projects, one of them stitching together a belt keeper. Since then, I place the needles a little less than a quarter of the way from the ends of the thread and allow it to slip through as needed as I stitch. It makes a lot of thread to pull through the hole, but i don't have to contend with pulling a long length of thread at the start of the stitching. That said, for a small project without an unwieldy amount of thread, I'd probably lock down the thread.
  7. It's the right way up, but from the scratch marks in the photo, it looks like one side is resting on the leather. The beveler should rest so that the groove in the tool is 45 degrees to the surface. In the photo, it looks as though it's not. A beveler cuts off the corner of the edge, so that's how you want to turn the tool. You shouldn't have to press down on it, just glide the beveler over the corner.
  8. Around here they go by the name monument companies. Usually it's grave slabs and tombstones, but they also do all sort of monuments.
  9. Nearest one is a good distance away, though I drive past for a doctor's appointment (typical old age stuff, nothing serious). Monument companies are easier, with two fairly close. Have been thinking about talking to them.
  10. Thanks all. What I was considering was that if it's the mass that helps, then I could use any similar rigid mass for punching, snaps, and rivets as long as I cover the surface. In particular is a cheap patio stone, which are made of concrete. Note that the leather wouldn't go directly onto the concrete, but on an old magazine, which I'm already placing under it. Possible drawbacks are the potential of a concrete "stone" breaking and would have to put something under it to prevent marring the work surface as well as on top of it. Before anyone points it out, this is one of those ideas that could easily turn into spending ten dollars to save one, all for a work surface that's not fit to tool on.
  11. I know this is a stupid question, but what is the purpose of a stone slab? For tooling, I can see the advantage of having a hard, smooth, surface. Other than that, is it to provide a rigid mass so that the work surface doesn't deform, allowing more of the energy from the mallet or maul to be applied to the piece?
  12. I was going to take a photo of the snaps on the old belt, then found them on the Tandy Leather site. Their Segma snaps are exactly the same. Weaver Leather Supply has a similar Segma snap. Not trying to make any converts here, just pointing them out for anyone curious to what was on that old belt. I like the idea of Chicago screws. It would serve the same purpose of allowing to change the buckle. It's perhaps worth noting that I can only find snaps on my oldest belts. The later ones sew the flap down.
  13. That's the ferrous acetate solution I made months ago. I strained and poured the finished solution into an airtight plastic bottle and ended up with only some precipitation. Used it on January 1, 2024, and pouring let in enough oxygen that the solution turned a dark red. Nothing to do but to discard. I like vinegaroon, though. Am thinking about making it as needed instead of making up a batch and storing it.
  14. Thanks, all. I hadn't considered Chicago screws. The whole point of snaps is to allow changing the buckle, and Chicago screws would do that just fine. Last year I first used rivets, but was getting dye from somewhere in the buckle end and ended up boring them out and dunking in M&G. Went back with snaps. I did have a problem with the snaps coming loose, but attributed it to them being cheap snaps. Ended up fiddling with the wire in the socket that grabs the stud and that helped.
  15. Found an old belt that got stuck behind something. These days I look at worn out belts and think "Hardware!" but in this instance I paid attention to the snaps holding the keeper and buckle flap in place. Last year I had bought some cheap snaps, and when I used them on a belt, the rims on the inside part of the post and socket created a gap. These snaps didn't. They're segma type snaps, but sit perfectly flush. The socket doesn't even have a rim, just a series of splits in the side to hold the socket in place, with the post fitting inside, maybe all the way into the cap. The belt snaps were also smaller diameter than I remember. Is is possible to find a snap that allows a flush fit? The segma line snaps at Tandy seem to have a thin rim. Would that give the same flush fit?
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