Jump to content

JDFred

Members
  • Content Count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JDFred

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Texas

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    None yet
  • Interested in learning about
    Building tack
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Stumbled upon it.

Recent Profile Visitors

224 profile views
  1. I’ve not tried to print anything from Tandy, but reading their instructions for printing it seems there are many print options for sizing. So you may just have to experiment with it to get the right size. Some of their patterns are larger than 8 1/2 x 11 and need to be printed at a print shop. Not sure if this is one of them or not.
  2. Thank you. I hand stitch them, I’m not cool enough to have a machine. Time will tell if the stitches hold. I used the handle of a stamp to pack them.
  3. Always good to know stuff like that. Thanks for the tip.
  4. I finally finished them. Here’s a picture.
  5. Thank you. I know you said you wanted acrylic templates; but Springfield Leather has a pretty cool pattern pack. I have it as well but they are paper patterns. Tandy also has some paper patterns that I also use.
  6. I’ve used the pattern from tacktemplates.com they have the pattern in acrylic templates also. They have an inlay window in them if you want to that. Here is a picture of a pair I made with their pattern.
  7. They look sharp. There’s nothing wrong being loaded for bear.
  8. Wet would compact better. It would also dry a little bit stiff. Did you ever have trouble with mold or mildew while they were drying? Or have staining problems on the leather from the wool being wet at the time of stuffing?
  9. I have the big one didn’t look to see if it was leather rated when I bought it. I don’t use it a lot mainly for cutting long fringe. The blade that came in it worked quite well even in heavier leather. I bought some titanium blades for it but never tried them as I don’t use it much it still has the original blade. They only cut straight lines you can kinda get away with a very gentle sweeping curve but I noticed you get a little undercut so your edge isn’t square. But that is fixable when you finish your edges. All that to say I don’t really think getting a small one for precise cuts is necessary since you’ll need another knife for corners and curves. I would recommend the bigger one so you don’t limit yourself on leather thickness.
  10. There is a company called Rumber they recycle tires into trailer flooring. We redecked a couple trailer at work and I brought home a couple of the drop-offs that is what I use for punching. Maybe you’ve goat a place that works on trailers close to you that may use the stuff and have some scraps. As far as cutting I use a self healing cutting board.
  11. I was at a new local feed store a couple weeks ago and they had a point of sale from quick books. The lady said it auto downloads all transactions to quick books. If you use quickbooks it might be worth a look.
  12. You could try lining the cuff to hide the back of the snap to relive the discomfort.
  13. JDFred

    Leather Key Fobs

    Keep up the practice with your curves. I don’t know what you use for a knife, but I had a hard time with curves when I used to use a utility knife. To me the blade flexed too much and the slack between the blade and the handle made curves hard to cut. I switched to a round knife an it helped me a lot in my cutting. If you intend to make a bunch of fobs HandyDave is right about a die. Fobs would be small enough I think you could use those dies with a mallet, if you don’t have a press.
  14. That makes sense to use clippings to get the shape and fill the center with the cut squares. If you do end up with some stuffing rods I would be interested in getting one. Thank you for the help. I’ll post some pictures when I get them done.
×
×
  • Create New...