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About jrdunn

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  • Location
    Cashion, OK, USA
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, welding, anything mechanical, livestock

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Dabbling. Is that a word?
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing and machine repair
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Searches about sewing machines

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  1. I had mine shipped to the local feedstore (good people). The shipper didn't have to deal with county roads and I didn't have to take off work. It worked out great! Of course I made him a "thank you" gift. JM2C
  2. I feel your pain. I'm always working, trying to get my number of bottles of dye to a managable level. I have several that are very close to one another.
  3. You might try Fiebing's deglazer to remove the Resolene. I'm pretty sure you'll have to come up with something that will remove it before dye will penetrate. I hesitate to mention it but . . . Have you considered antiquing it? I hate the stuff but it's an option. Almost anything will stain your thread too. JM2C
  4. Congrats on the new sewing machine. We'll want to see pictures of your projects.
  5. Welcome to Leatherworker.net and Oklahoma from a fellow Okie! Jim
  6. I made one with a 5-6 oz. oil tan for the outside and a 6-7 oz. veg tan in the bottom. It is different but worked out very well. I used the pin shackles on the corners of that one instead of sewing or chicago screws. I have to admit that I saw the idea about the pin shackles from someone on here. I never considered getting a pattern. I just make them square and whatever size I want. JM2C
  7. This has been my experience with them recently as well.
  8. @Garyak, I'm interested. Any tips on what to get (or don't bother with) regarding the Brother? Jim
  9. Would you mind if we see what you came up with?
  10. If you are going to cut fringe from the legs like the ones in the photo, you need to allow extra for that. Some add a strip of precut fringe, some do both to have thicker and possibly two-toned fringe. JM2C
  11. @Hairic I finally went back and looked at your link. The chaps there are only $70. If I donated my time and used bargain leather, I might get them made for that amount. If those are the ones he wants, I think he should order them. I'm not trying to be negative. I have made myself, family and friends stuff that cost me more than you could buy it for. I at least tell myself that it is better quality and it usually is. Those are "patchwork" chaps. Zoom in on the picture. You'll see that each leg is made up of several panels of leather so the manufacturer can use all the hide. Making one pair at a time, that would make it more time consuming for me and lower the quality. You might have him look at these: https://www.foxcreekleather.com/1-6mm-1-8mm-motorcycle-chaps/ A little more realistic price and hopefully closer something you might make. Where you can shine is the custom fitting. Measure around the thigh at the crotch, around the knee(bent at 90 degrees), make sure the calf is large enough to go over pants and boots. I usually add about an inch to each of those measurements for my pattern. Another problem with off the shelf is that the inseam usually lands about halfway between the crotch and knee. You need to determine where they will wear them. On westerns, the chap belt usually sits just below the jeans belt. I've seen guys wearing M/C chaps from practically their armpits to almost their crotch! When they decide where they will wear them, measure inseam and outseam. I apologize for the rant/book! JM2C
  12. In my opinion the Rex 26-188 is an underrated workhorse. I repaired one for a friend. No frills but sews good. I had heard horror stories of walking foot machines roughing up the leather but after setting foot pressure, no problem. JM2C
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