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About Klara

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    sighthounds, textiles (spinning to sewing), music

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  1. Vinegaroon is acidic, sodium bicarbonate basic. I know very little about leather, but quite a lot about the protein fibre wool (and hair, and silk). It stands up to acids pretty well, but not to alcaline substances. Given that leather is protein-based material, I would expect somewhat similar behaviour. I also wonder whether plant dyes used normally for wool might work - the above recipes for leather use some of the same plants. Brazilwood, saffron, tree barks, wold (Reseda luteola) - does anybody know what fustic berries are?
  2. I have lit up my entire workshop with 2 windows in the roof (north side) and 4 high quality (CRI 98) 36 W fluorescent tubes - the ones that go in dental labs and permit to judge colours. Would those be an option?
  3. I got mine from a grave stone maker, also for free. I am planning on giving the nice lady a keyfob with cat picture as a sign of appreciation that shows I put her gift to good use... (only problem is that my tooling skills are nearly non-existent and keyfobs so small)
  4. I always thought that knife sheaths were constructed with a welt to avoid poking holes. Oh yes, you are right, I can just sew in a flat piece of leather. I was hung up on the fold and how to do it with thicker leather, and... Thanks!
  5. Two years ago I wondered why so many knife rolls had the handles in the pocket and the blades exposed, now I think I know: Because the makers had the same question I have now: How does one stop the point from poking through the pocket? I want to make a simple knife roll type thingy for two nail files and a polishing board, in order to replace the plastic pocket they came in (which they poked through). I do not want to make the wonderful but fairly complex manicure case in The Art of Making Leather Cases (vol. 2, I think). I was thinking about simply folding over the leather at the bottom for the pockets, sewing the edges closed and the separations between the files - classic tool roll design. But I am wondering how long such a construction will last. Does anybody have better ideas?
  6. Klara

    Archery arm guard

    So how do you close them?
  7. You are welcome, I'm glad you like it
  8. Or even just his blades. I'm pretty sure that the ones I have don't cut so well. The other question I had was about the tires: Aren't our tires reinforced with some textile (or wire?) material? Those ones look like pure rubber. I might have to talk to my car mechanic...
  9. Have you seen this guy ? Nope, it's not leather work, but I am dreaming of having some of his tools. And skills. Actually, I will try the cutter blade in the edge of the work bench - should work (there's another video where a nail stops the blade from coming back out), though I can't believe how easily cut his blades through tire rubber. And does anybody know what the grip is he uses for the groover cut from a razor blade?
  10. Of course it's basically the same stuff. And I have already had a look and found something that might possibly be worth buying if nothing better crops up - but you were probably too busy insulting people to read it. Thirdly, Gosut seems perfectly capable to do his own search, now that he has several suggestions what to look for.
  11. Yes. And the minimal tools are: 2 (nearly) identical saddlers needles (neeles with a blunt tip and a fairly small eye that is almost the same size as the shaft. Made from good-quality steel so it doesn't break) - not an assortment of tapestry and mattress needles as in your links. A stitching awl. Meaning an awl that smoothly cuts through pretty thick leather. A round awl - scratch awl - is useful but not essential. Something to mark the stitches at equal distances: A fork, stitching chisels or a stitching wheel. Something to mark the stitching line an even distance from the leather's edge - a groover or compass. (Of course you can also eyeball the stiches, but marking them makes things a lot easier and gives a better result.) For stitching fluently a stitching pony (or saddler's clam) is extremely helpful, I consider it essential. A rag to burnish the edges and rub the thread, if you wax it yourself (and feel like polishing it. I've never...) The minimal materials are, in my opinion: Leather suitable for the project One spool of good-quality thread that goes with the leather and your needles. Not an assortment of dubious-quality stuff as in your links. A piece of beeswax to wax the thread (unless you buy it waxed) and for burnishing the edges. Glue makes leatherwork easier, but for example Jo from JH Leather works mostly without it (then she uses tacks). Personally, I consider sharpening equipment for maintaining my cutting tools essential as well - it allows me to spend less on them (only the most expensive ones cut right out of the box) and to enjoy them longer. And of course it also works for kitchen and pocket knives. This is not a long list (if you want to see a long list, read Nigel Armitage's first book), but the tool kits you linked just don't cover it. Why are you so invested in them? Are you the seller?
  12. As Tsunkapasa says. The first thing I look for in a kit is stitching chisels. And when I do that, I discover that there are very few, if any, useable "complete" kits left. Nothing on Ebay, on Amazon I found this. There's 4 stitching chisels and a groover/edge beveler multi tool. @Gosut you might be better off buying separately just a chisel set, a decent edge beveler and use a compass you already have. Not the cheapest version, but the most fun, is to find an actual brick and mortar store with knowledgeable sales staff, where you can compare different tools. Choices over which I've agonized in front of the PC have become very easy touching the tools. But be warned, unless you are good at sticking to shopping lists, that can get very expensive (I can't help it, Deco Cuir have leather in the shop that's not on the website...) Saddlers needles (John James) are ridiculously cheap - I've bought all sizes. Thread is astonishingly expensive, but I am convinced that the stuff in the cheap kits is not good quality. And you really, really don't want to work with bad thread! A piece of beeswax costs little and you can use it for the thread (if you buy unwaxed, which has the advantage that you can thin it out for easier threading) and the edges of the leather. Regarding the awl: You can pay a fortune and get one that's ready to use (the sales lady let me try a Barry King when I said I didn't understand the price difference to "normal" awls. Now I do.) or you can learn to sharpen awl blades, which is the better long-term solution. You'll probably also want to make a leather strop (meaning you need to buy the polishing compound. I only use the green.) - it makes a huge difference in knife and awl sharpness. I'm assuming that you already have a sharpening stone for all your other knives...
  13. You mean like a seamstresses thimble? Don't think I've ever used one for sewing leather...
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