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About Me

Found 11 results

  1. Mazzy1988

    Mazzy1988

    Hi, new here and new to leather working and heavy machines, minus my old singer 96k. (But been working as seamstress at menswear shop 11years so have a general knowledge of sewing) I have just bought a second hand singer 45k89 but it only came with the one foot. I am wondering if anyone can help me find more feet and possibly a bobbin winder that attaches to the machine body (not the table, if that makes any sense) I have asked a company called college sewing online but they have ignored my message and I’ve scoured eBay and I’m only finding bobbins and cases. So thought I’d ask a forum of people who know! Thanks in advance any help is much appreciated!
  2. hi folks! First time posting here, hopefully I'm not stepping on anyone's toes...Last weekend I brought home "Pfaff 145-1B H2L" leather sewing material and been googling info on it. Found this forum and theres PRICELESS information here. However I learnt its basically spread on different messages / threads so I started this "All things Pfaff 145" thread to collect everything I've found on one place. To help newbies like myself and also collect all the important data on one place. Pfaff 145 Manual in english: http://www.pfaff.com/SiteMedia/PFAFF/Products/Machines/Support-manuals/pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF Pfaff 145 & 545 Parts book http://www.industrialsewingmachineparts.co.uk/pfaff_145_545_partslist.pdf Here's what I've learnt from classification so far: H1 & H2 7mm under foot H3 11mm under foot H4 14mm under foot Needles: 134 (H1&H2), 134-35 (H3) and 190 (H4) A: light materials, B: medium, C: medium heavy D: heavy L: leather N: 6 mm stitch length
  3. Okay I know you are all going to tell me this is a bad idea and that I should just buy a real leather sewing machine, but I don't have the money to make the investment yet, so I wanted to try this first. If I were to try sewing softer oil tanned leather with a normal sewing machine, what should I buy to make it work right? I hear that you can buy walking feet for normal sewing machines along with leather needles for them too. What do you guys think of that idea and what needle/ walking foot should I be looking at? Thank you for your advice! -Cole
  4. I have a like new Weaver Leather Heritage Foot Press and a full set of dies and adapters for holes, rivets, spots, diamond spots, crystals, and snaps. I paid $1650 in 2015 for all. I never used it! I will take $1100 OBO. You pick-up in Kentucky or pay freight. ************* Also for sale, I have $600 dollars worth of high quality embellishments... buckles, spots, tubular rivets, snaps, hole punch, crystals, and more. BEST DEAL - Take it all (press and embellishments) for $1500 plus shipping or come to Kentucky to get it. All this would be at least $2250 at wholesale prices. SAVE $750 TODAY! Message me and I will email you a link to a complete list and photos.
  5. I have a brand new Weaver Leather Heritage Foot Press and a full set of dies and adapters for it. I paid $1650 in 2015. Never used! I will take $1100 OBO. You pick-up or pay freight. Also for sale, I have hundreds of spots, rivets, snaps and other embellishments sized for it. Message me and I will email you a link to a complete list and photos.
  6. Union Level Leather

    Hemming foot?

    Does anyone make a 1/4" hemming foot for a Consew 206RB5? Ive searched high and low and can't seem to find one. I need to hem Cordura and canvas. thanks in advance. George
  7. Hello all! I'd like to introduce myself. I'm extremely new to leather work and vinyl work. I work with the USAF as an Avionics Technician on the B-1, F-16, B-2 and various other aircraft. I have a healthy background in electrical and computer engineering and maintenance. Currently I live in Japan, and I was lucky enough to come across a very rare care in the United States; an R32 gtr. So far, the car seems to be in good condition, even the interior is very nice for 25 year old car. It does have some cosmetic problems, and of course I want to do a custom interior retrim. I'm completely capable of trial and error, and taking my time with especially large projects such as an interior retrim. So I've been doing as much research as I can, and I decided to make an account here to get a first hand opinion from you guys. Currently, I've researched about the most prominent walking foot sewing machines, since I'll mostly be sewing vinyl. I've heard of the headaches that are solved by using a walking foot. I looked for pricing on the singer 111 series, and noticed that most of the pricing with motors and table almost always equal the price of a brand new Sailrite LS-1 basic. I've seen a few singer 95-15 around sewing leather, but how well does it honestly work with folded layers of vinyl and foam? I feel that it's a bit incredible that most of these older sewing machines, or general "used" new sewing machines are over 800 dollars. I feel that 600 USD for a brand new LS-1 is acceptable, but I was wondering what other machines I could use with heavy automotive / marine vinyl. Specifically, some allsport 4 way and some thick carpeting / foam padding. What other machines can you think of that don't break the bank? I'd say the main reason i'm looking for a ~600 maximum is because I would pay for someone to take the time and ship it to me (ie: paying extra for your efforts, plus the shipping cost). Of course, if push comes to shove, if anyone is in Florida, I can get one of my buddies to pick it up and ship it to me. What are y'alls opinion on my machine choices?
  8. christiancowboycobbler

    Techsew 810 roller foot

    Looking for a small roller foot for techsew 810... I see the singer type roller feet all over the place. Is there a conversion or do I just need to look harder? Any help is appreciated.
  9. Hey guys, I've been reading up on the forums for a while now and finally joined to ask a few questions that I could not find the answers to. I am looking to build a medium to dark brown pleated tuck and roll leather motorcycle seat. (See examples attached) My questions pertain to the type and thickness of leather and the sewing machine needed to make this seat. I have been researching leather types and am a little overwhelmed with all of the options. I really like the inconsistency of brown oil tanned leather. I am not sure if this will be ideal for a motorcycle however. Will the oil rub off on my pants? Will it hold up under use? I looked at all the upholstery grade leather and it seems too shiny and consistent in texture and appearance. Should I use chrome tanned, oil tanned, aniline died, wax, urethane top coat? It seems to me like 3-4 oz will be the max thickness that I can use and still be able to pleat. Second subject is the type of machine. I understand that I will be needing a walking foot compound feed machine with #138? thread? Does this sound correct? I know that this is a very broad question that has many answers based on opinions, but where should I start in terms of manufacture and model for a machine that can accomplish the seats below? Thanks in advance for the help! Evan
  10. Good morning! I am a beginning leatherworker and purchased a Singer 15 sewing machine a few months ago and it had been doing a fantastic job stitching leather of all thicknesses, single and double ply, up to 15 oz and as thin as 2 oz. Recently I have been having immense difficulty with two things on it. 1. The thread spacing is erratic sometimes even on leather that is exactly the same thickness the whole way, it may stem from the second problem I am having though. I have checked the thread spacing screw and it is tight and has not moved from the position it has always been in (~6-8 stitches per inch). Is this due to having too large of a needle? 2. The presser foot periodically will lift up with my leather when the needle is coming back up through the leather to go to the next stitch and will also miss locking the stitch. I have backed out and adjusted the tension on the presser foot all the way down as far as it can go. Previously this would be so tight that the leather would not even move when you tried to advance a stitch. Now it is so loose that the needle can easily pick up the leather when it is coming back through. I am mainly making headstalls, breastcollars, halters and spur straps, using 13-15oz leather, what type of thread and size needle should I be using? Does anyone have any experience with these machines? I would like to see if I can figure out what is going on with it before I take it in to a shop we have here in town that *might* be able to fix it. I would love to purchase a more professional machine, but money is tight right now and I am already farther than I would rather be in the hole with starting my leather business up. However if anyone has a used machine that works well still that they are looking to sell please let me know! Thank you sooo much for any help that you can give! Christina
  11. Hi all, just received my new Cobra 4 machine. I love Christmas in August and I love the Cobra! As I work through skill building and getting familiar with the machine, I noticed that the groover "fin" on the bottom of the center presser foot leaves a mark at the beginning of each stitch run. While I like the groover concept, I don't care for that groover mark. It seems like I would rather manually cut my own groove channel, just as I always have when and stitching. Has anybody else had the impulse to file the groover fin off of your presser feet? I've attached a pic of the groover marks at the beginning of each stitch line. Thanks in advance, Steve Seattle, WA