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  1. Hi! I am from the US and was wondering what some of the preferred brands of bonded nylon thread people use? I am making primarily journals, wallets, bags and the like. I have just set up my Techsew 4800, and it came with their own brand of thread, which seems to work well so far. Unfortunately, the color selection isn't the greatest. I'd really love to find a supplier that sells #69 or #92 in a wide array of colors.
  2. Hey everyone, this is my first post on this wonderful forum but after much searching I haven't been able to find any posts that address this specific issue. I feel like I've tried so many things to fix the problem but its a bit of a mystery to me at this point so if anyone has advice I'd love to hear! For context I work mostly with soft upholstery type leather, with a small business doing custom jobs - bags, accessories, products with decorative appliqué and such. Working with a Juki model LU1510N-7 and Cansew Tex 70 bonded nylon thread. The needles are generally 135 x 15 R size 19 and are changed regularly. I have been having the problem of intermittent 'knots' appearing on the underside of the leather - these are made of the needle thread over-twisted around its self to form a tight ball of thread which when pulled and unravelled leaves a loop of several stitch lengths worth of thread on the underside of the leather. There is no fraying or catching of the thread as it goes along the thread path from cone to needle, and the bobbin thread seems to be running smoothly as well. I've tried different cone placements and thread paths as well to try to get the thread to feed as smoothly as possible off the cone. We have tried adjusting the tension depending on the material being sewn and even when the tension appears balanced between the needle and bobbin threads it doesn't eliminate the knotting altogether. Some days it seems like the machine will behave and sew perfectly and other times there will be 6-8 knots within a 10 inch line of stitching. Sometimes I will rethread the machine and wind another bobbin and it might go away for a while and other times that doesn't help at all. Also have tried with no real improvement: Needles from size 18-22, silicone thread lubricant, changing bobbin tension, different tension when winding bobbins, different heights for the thread cone. I have a suspicion that after switching from A&E brand thread to Cansew this was when the over twisting and knotting really became an issue - the quality between orders of thread varies and some colours of the cansew thread seem to be very stiff and tangle easily where others almost feel like a lighter weight even though they are both tex 70? Some colours in particular are bad for this, especially the darker ones. The knotting happens more frequently on some machines than others (they are the same model of Juki) which makes me think it isn't only a thread quality issue but something that is happening with the machine it's self. Here are a few pictures of the knotted thread before and after the knot is untwisted. Has anyone else run into this problem before? Hoping someone could shed a little light on the situation, at this point I don't know what else I can be doing to try to improve the stitching.
  3. I have recently bought a juki lu1510, my purpose is to sew thicker multi layer leather garments with it (such as a layered leather corset, mediaeval leather gambeson, maybe some experimental shoe making). It is the 6th sewing machine in my collection but first industrial machine and I'm having trouble understanding the thread specs (what each number means) and sourcing appropriate thread that matches my needles. I found the needles I needed from schmetz and got some nm130, 140 and 160. Could anyone help me find the thread I'm looking for? If anyone also has a supplier they recommend, I'm based in the UK. It may well be to do with the fact I only half know what I'm looking for, but I don't seem to find many stockists of heavier thread. Manufacturer specifications: Needles- 135×17 (at the time of delivery) (Nm160) Nm125~Nm180 Thread- #30~#5, B46~B138, Nm=60/3~20/3
  4. Couple questions about thread. My Adler 30-1 now sews like a dream and its time to put it to work. While I was repairing it I read a number of posts attributing various problems to poor quality thread, which makes a lot of sense. I'm planning on using primarily 92 and 138 polyester thread for various leather projects and maybe occasional sewing of canvas, nylon webbing, backpack repair, etc. I figure on using polyester, not that everything I sew will end up outdoors, it just minimizes the types of thread I'd need on hand. A couple of spools will last me for years so its no problem dropping a few more bucks to avoid problems and cover the widest range of possible uses. So then, what brands are the best (or least problematic) thread? Apparently 138 is the heaviest thread a 30-1 can handle, correct? Is using bonded thread important? I assume I need to adjust tension on the shuttle and on the upper thread for different sizes, correct? Maybe easier to have a different shuttle for each size thread, huh? Thanks!
  5. So, faced with a pile of thread of unknown origins… What is a correct method of measuring the thread size? I have been making a loop so that I can place two strands side by side in my calibers. I close the jaws until I feel moderate resistance. Then take a reading or three. Using this method, I’ve been seeing 0.0045 to 0.0055 for typical home sewing machine thread. 0.007 to 0.009 for some “heavy duty” thread. And 0.012 for some C & C upholstery thread. Which I take to be Tex70. There are others that don’t quite fit any of the standard sized listed for conventional thread types. I bought some Tex90 from Amazon (my first mistake). Measured 0.0095. Not even close to the 0.0133. So back it went. I’m now lurking on thread exchange for some proper string. Are there variations of thickness depending on the manufacturer and thread type as they relate to standard sizing? So, tell me if my method is sound, and if not, what should I be doing? I've lurked for years and learned just how much I don't know. Such a wonderful source of information. I'm a complete noobe at this, so other basic questions will follow. Thanks for the help, All the Best, Jeff
  6. I am doing a research article for Carriage Hand sewing thread. I was recently told it is manufactured in China. I have been looking in several areas including Tandy Leather for the manufacturer information. But can't find anything. Please help.
  7. Hello. I am a newbie to this site, and couldn’t find a thread (lol) about this topic I make heavy duty dog collars and harnesses, mostly using 9/10 oz leather, sometimes as low as 7 oz. I need a good, strong thread that will take some abuse and not stretch out. Most of what I find is thread made for hand sewing - this is for a machine (Master Tools Cub Manual). What do you all use / suggest? It would be nice if I could find something with a good selection of colors. Thank you
  8. Hi folks! I have recently aquired a brother DB2 B755-3 for sewing some pretty pliable leather. I think I'm using the correct needle size - 16 x 231 (DB x 1) NM 110 Size 18 ... I find sewing machine needle systems a bit mindbending... but I'm concerned the thread I'm using is incorrect and not going to be strong enough with normal wear and tear. I've got Coats Nylbond, in size Tkt 040. it also says Tex 070 but not sure what that means! Any tips? Thanks so much!
  9. Okay auction going tonight (sorry for short notice) If I were to purchase the lot would there be interest of members to purchase at around $25 per bobbin? They are $57 each on Amazon (I think?) American & Efird Thread. Anefil Nylon. AA59826 TEX 90. Color: Black. Apx 106 gross of 33 yd. Bobbins. MIL SPEC P N084247 63002
  10. Hi All, My bobbin winder doesn't work very well on either of my 29ks. The patch people that I have met said that I should get the prewound bobbins but I can't seem to find any online to order. I've searched for every combo of terms and I can't come up with anythng. Thanks in advance. -Nancy
  11. This is my first plea for help...here goes: Being new to leatherwork, I'm completely without tools & supplies. I've watched a number of vidjas (videos, as we say it 'round here) and came up with a pricks & stitches kit from amazon that helped me figure out what else I needed to know. The first thing is that the flat braided thread in the kit doesn't fill the holes I make with the pricking tools. After poking around suppliers, I find I need to ask a question: Where can I find a very thick, round thread that I can dye to a color of my choosing? And by thick I mean 1mm or greater, maybe even a full 2mm. Is there an easy answer to this?
  12. I just like to share a kind of modification I have done on a Singer 237 domestic machine. With this machine I try to make sew with V138 polyester thread, and it fails (of cause). The upper thread gets damaged when I try to sew more than 5 stitches, and then the thread jam or break. So I tried to figure out why. The Singer 237 have got an oscillating shuttle, and it is a zig-zag machine. The Pictures below illustrade the modification: The modification fixed the problem, and now it is able to sew with V138 serafil 20 polyester thread. Of cause I need to increase thread tension of the machine for this to happen as well, and the machine may wear down quick. Before the modification, the shape of this U-turn was rectangular with quite sharp edges. I suppose these original edges will be all right with thinner thread and lower tread tension. However I cannot be sure, if this could be a fabrication error. I have looked at some similar new shuttles for sale on internet, and I think they some of them have got quite sharp edges as well, when I look at Pictures of them: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/1i5kk8lux0-0020-385/id-532096007 https://picclick.com/Shuttle-Hook-For-Singer-Butterfly-Flying-Man-Old-153009787971.html#&gid=1&pid=5 https://www.amazon.com/SINGER-Sewing-Machine-Shuttle-Hook/dp/B008MM42UM Has this area of the shuttles of industrial sewing machines for leather the same kind of issues? Perhaps you should expect some Wear on these surfaces as well.
  13. I’m making a project for myself. Whenever I do I want to get the best and get exactly what I want so that when I’m done I’m happy with what I’ve made for myself. A spool of this carriage hemp hand sewing thread is like 30 bucks!! That’s bonkers! I’ve got plenty of flat nylon thread, and it’s not the material that I don’t like. It’s the shape. When I hand stitch with flat thread it twists or folds over on itself and never looks the same thickness along the stitches. I mean, unless you get out your magnifying glass and look at these millimeter sized stitches you won’t notice, but I can see it and I know it’s there, making faces at me. So I figure if I get a higher quality round thread it will look perfectly uniform and even all the way along. But would it be worth the expense? The thick, round, cord-like sewing thread looks so nice. Not huge, but visible enough to show off your nice handiwork. Is there a reliably less expensive alternative than a $30 spool of thread? Like heavy duty upholstery thread or something else that will look nice on leather? What have you used?
  14. Hey folks! I am having difficulty with getting a good bottom stitch for our leather products. I am finding that the top has a very even and good look with deep holes, but the bottom is coming out sort of rough and crappy looking. I don't think it's necessarily a tension issue, maybe the needle we are using? does anybody have a suggestion on how we can get this stitch look a bit more professional? Thanks!
  15. This is my first post, so hopefully I won't make an utter fool of myself! I've just purchased my first leather sewing machine (Cowboy 3200) after doing english bridlework and saddlery repairs for the past 2 years by hand and learning that I have fairly severe arthritis in my hands at the ripe old age of 32. Hah! I am aware that byusing the machine I won't have the lovely angled stitch, or the knot and stability of the saddle stitch, but I'd love to continue to use a thread with a traditional look to it. I have a background in textiles and fiber, so I'm really drawn to the outward look of natural-fiber threads (linen, cotton, hemp, etc) regardless of if they're core-spun around something more stable. Has anyone used Sajou polycotton "Spécial Maroquinerie" for their machine stitching? I fully expect it to be more finicky and less forgiving than a bonded nylon or polyester, but I'm a glutton for punishment. Are there other brands of natural-fiber core-spun threads on the market? If so, does anyone know how it stitches up, size-wise? The 28/3 is 0.45mm, while the 28/3 is 0.38mm, and I'm hoping to find something that stitches up similar to a #183 thread. Also, I'd assume the waxed threads such as this might gum up the machine over time despite being designed for machine use. Is there a way I can keep this from happening? I don't mind a little extra work cleaning it out now and then in exchange for the natural fiber thread. Orrrr... is this just a beginner's pipe dream, and should I just stick to bonded nylon or polyester? (Here is the link to the sajou website and the page with machine threads: http://www.sajou.fr/en/314--special-maroquinerie-fil-au-chinois)
  16. When I am stitching with white thread, the thread turns dingy colored from the piece I'm working on. I use waxed thread. How do I prevent that from happening? I want the stitching to really ”pop. Thanks, Dennis
  17. I called Toledo Industrial sewing today and asked if they had a thread lubricating oil pot.. They do.. The Ferdco Pro 2000 has one that Mr. John Bianchi used in his western belt and holster making video set. That's how i know about an oil pot. I ordered one and am attaching it to my Cobra 4 machine.. This should help when sewing thick leather where the needle likes to stick.
  18. I mostly make sheaths and sew with linen thread as I prefer that to synthetic But I thought I'd make a couple of belts, and sew them with synthetic thread, which is stronger than linen I was going to use Tandy's waxed nylon, then I saw some kevlar thread in my local Tandy store, reduced from £36 to £12 a roll, so I thought I'd try that. Now I have a couple of questions - How can I secure the thread at the end of stitching? It doesn't melt and bead up when heated with a lighter flame. I've tied a knot in a sample length and that seems to work OK; do you think it will stay secured long - term without unravelling? I've seen a video where they cut through a nylon cable tie with kevlar thread. I'm assuming they were able to do that as they used the thread in a sawing motion. If the belt end is sewn down securely and there's no movement I'm hoping that the thread won't cut the leather; any comments? Thanks Zuludog
  19. For sale is 40 spools of Glace Intrinsic thread, 3 cor, cotton of various colors. Brown, Grey, White, Beige, copper, brass, Blue, Black and one Military Green. This thread is ridiculously strong, as some of you know. All 40 spools including shipping (which will be about $10-$15) $50.00. Please message me if you have any other questions.
  20. Hey Everyone. Please have a look at my photos my cross stitch. I am using 0.6 ritza tiger thread and a KSblade punch round dent to make the holes. I tried to use "lin cable au chinois" in size 832 , but it kept unravelling and breaking between all the back and forth. The ritza is waxy and hard to use, but works better. I got about 3/4 through my project and the whole thing got too loose on the front and tight on the back and then a thread snapped. I have come to the realization this method won't work for me. If anyone has any advice i would be so grateful. i feel i need another kind of thread/ and bigger holes spaced a bit wider apart. KS blade punch don't make any bigger punches. so i have ordered a 1mm punch drive from tandy and am gonna punch the holes by hand i think. Please tell me what you think, Thanks , s
  21. Picked up a new-to-me Juki 1541S and initially it sewed wonderfully. Machine was very dirty from being used in a factory environment. I'm afraid my good intentions of cleaning and oiling everything has caused some serious inconsistent tension issues. Oiled all indicated points per the manual, removed needle plate cover and evacuated all the old factory lint. Cleaned out bobbin case area with compressed air and a brush. For this project I'm sewing nylon with Tex70 bonded nylon thread. Visually, it appears that the top thread goes from having too much tension, to too little tension. This happens at all sewing speeds. Whether I'm crawling slowly or ripping through at max speed. Bottom side fares a bit better but is also not entirely inconsistent. Any thoughts or recommendations would be helpful. I've ripped my hair out all day over this! • I have checked all the thread paths and they are clean and clear, no snags. • Needle is fresh - Size 21. • Bobbin case holder is not Juki OEM - it's made by Haya (problem?) • Bobbins were cheap $0.50/ea from Amazon in a 20pk (problem?) • Hook timing appears to be correct • Check spring path is clean and clear • Tension disks are clean and clear
  22. Hello, Didn't find a thread section so here I am. I'm making heavy duty leather/canvas backpacks and I need heavy duty thread but it needs to be biodegradable. I am looking for size 92/tex 90 and 138/135 so linen, cotton or whatever else exists. Any tips?
  23. I have an Antarés close contact saddle I've been asked to repair. In short, I'm trying to identify the best thread for the job. I need something tha's very resistant to UV and is extremely abrasion resistant. What do you recommend? There was a wonderful reference page that compared characteristics of thread types I thought I found on this site ages ago. Unfortunately, I haven't been successful in relocating it. If you know what I'm talking about, any idea where to find it? More context: The owner doesn't want to have the whole seat replaced but asked for me to repair a tear on the edge where it is sewn to the jockeys and the rider's thigh rests.
  24. https://imgur.com/gallery/bmhP3gY Large assortment. Received as a gift from my aunt. I only use black and white thread generally, so wouldn't ever really use it. (I know, I'm boring =P ) 70 yards a roll. I have played around with probably about 8-10, of the rolls, but never used more than a yard at most of any of them. So, all are guaranteed to be at least 69 yards. =) Very strong thread. That's a lot of thread. You could use it to begin construction of the worlds largest ball of waxed polycord thread and start your very own tourist attraction!... Or just sew a million kajillion delightfully awesome handmade items and share your art with the world! 6 rolls of the .04" waxed poly thread - in top row of photos. Originally $6.60 a roll 8 rolls of the .02" waxed poly thread Originally $4.40 a roll Second row from top in pictures. 29 rolls of the .03" waxed poly thread Pretty much every color they have I think. Originally $5.94 a roll Conversion of sizes for those used to mm- .02" = ~0.5mm .03" = ~0.76mm .04" = ~1.0mm https://www.mainethread.com/ Total paid retail. 6 rolls @.04" = $39.60 29 rolls @ .03" = $172.26 8 rolls @ .02" = $35.20 Total Paid = $247.06 Plus shipping I'd prefer to sell as one lot. Asking $140 Over a hundred bucks off retail!
  25. Hi, I am gonna switching from #277 to #138 bonded Nylon thread with my Cowboy 4500 and wanted to see if the needles DYx3 size #20 will go with that thread. Has anyone experience with #138 thread and size #20 needles? It's for thinner leather sewing like 1.7mm leather 2 or 3 layers. I believe #277 thread which I am using now is to thick and the needle makes to huge holes into the leather when using it on wallets, Holsters, Smartphone cases and the like were I use at max 1.7mm 2 layers leather from cow or pig (which is sometimes very soft).
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