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Found 6 results

  1. Thutch

    PS300B

    Hi Everyone! Perhaps a bit strange in Leatherworker, but who knows...help is often found in the strangest of places! I'm trying to lay hands on the PS300B sewing pattern software for the Brother 430 bartacker? It can be purchased, but they want (what I think is) an exorbitant amount for it! Thanks for any assistance in this regard! Cheers, Timmy
  2. I've been sewing a lot, but only on others machines (industrial walkingfoots as well). I picked up a Brother LS2-B837 the other day and changed from a thin cotton thread to a tkt 20 (tex 150) nylon thread. It had a 130 needle, which would be about right accordingly to the thread brand (120-140). Seams to do well on the slide test. (Tried 120 and 140 as well) At first I tried with original thread tension, but it broke the thread. I losened both top and bottom tension a little, the bottom so that the bobbin doesnt slide down holding it in the thread, but loose enough to slide a bit with a gentle "jojo move". I would say its on the looser end now. The top tension I did loosen a lot, because the thread did not move at all, to a point where it falls off from the tension wheels. By the moment it will curl the top thread, and do a lot of birdnesting. Ive tried all day, with my limited error searchings skills, and I'm not even close to make one normal stitch, feels like a needle in a haystack!
  3. I'm a newbie to Industrial sewing machines and need to slow the brute down. I have just fitted a Jack JK 563A Motor to my Brother LS2 B837 and even at the slowest speed it is running to quickly. Is it possible to fit a smaller pulley to the motor and what is the size of the shaft? Any advice would be most welcome. Cheers Richard
  4. Thanks to Constabulary for identifying the OMAC 69-73; which is an Adler clone. As I said elsewhere: I'm setting up a leather workshop in Austria and am looking for the equipment I will need to do so. One of my major purchases will be a sewing machine. And I've spent a LOT of time researching this. While I'd like to think I've learned a lot, the truth of the matter is that, at this point, I know just enough to be dangerous ... to myself and my wallet. Which is why I'm posting here and elsewhere. Better to seek the wisdom of others now than to wish I had later. Since shipping from the States and the UK would add FAR more than I want to spend to the costs of the equipment, I would appreciate any info I can get on good suppliers of industrial sewing machines, other leather workshop equipment, leather, hardware, etc. in continental Europe. (FYI, I will be posting in the suppliers forum as well as here.) I would also appreciate any info anyone has on the HJighlead GC2698-1 sewing machines. I I understood the info on their Irsih/UK website correctly, they're manufactured by Mistubishi http://www.highlead.co.uk/about-HIGHLEAD.htm And from the looks of the machine, it is another Adler 69-373 clone. Pics and specs can be seen here: http://www.sunnysewingmachine.com/index.php/view-all-machines/21-cylinder-arm-sewing-machines/647-highlead-gc2698-1-small-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-sewing-machine-syncronized-binder Assuming I'm correct, it would probably do what I need to do. HOWEVER, I am not going to buy anything that I have not either seen good reviews of written by the good folks on this forum or run past ya'll. Sooooooo ... does anyone know anything about these machines? In particular, what is it a clone of: Adler? Juki? Both? Are they well made, reliable, etc. Thanks! LJ Stevens Maverick Leathers
  5. Hi gang, I started [trying to] sew leather handbags about 6 months ago and have been lurking here ever since to get a better feel for industrial machines and which one I need. I feel like I already know you all! I live in the southwest, not exactly a hotbed for used walking foot, cylinder arm machines... So I've been keeping my eye out for a Pfaff 335/Consew 227 head to have shipped here, for my local sew-n-vac guy ("Joe") to put on a table with a servo, hoping to get it all done for under a grand - I'm a little skittish about investing any more than that before I know what I'm doing and where my business is going to go. I figure anything I buy will be near impossible to resell around here if I change my mind. For what it's worth I'm sewing up to 4 layers of ~2oz leather, nothing too burly, plus some occasional upholstery fabrics and sunbrella. I have an older domestic Bernina that is great for anything lighter. But then! Joe comes into a Brother LS3-C53 (I think it's a C53B), which he'll install and purty up for me for $1500. It is one sexy beast. Older but very lightly used. A bit more machine than I was looking for or need, but I'd have the advantage of buying something I've met in person, from someone local. I've googled pretty thoroughly and haven't been able to find a manual on it or any specs, although I know it's in the same general class as Pfaff 345 / Consew 227. My questions: - What are its specs? (clearance, bobbin, needle/thread size range)? Joe says "it will work for what you want to do", ok I know that, but I want details. - What will it be like finding finding parts, feet? Is it interchangeable with other makes? - Anything else I should ask? I've looked around and think this is a great price, but spending $500 more than I budgeted is a big deal for me, especially if this is heavier duty than I need. I really don't mind sewing on a clunker til I know what I'm doing. Thanks so much for any thoughts. Hopefully I'll have finished work to brag about soon! -joy
  6. Hello, leather gurus, artisans, and hacks like me, I have an ooold Brother DB2-B755-3, which is identical to a lot of Juki's I see around, and looked in the .pdf manual that it accepts "DBx1 (DBx5)" needles. I am overwhelmed in confusion about needles and sizing and system and all things surrounding this. I took out the needle it came with because i wanted something smaller so I put in "Schmetz Leather 130/705" and under that it says "110/18". No good, unless i want to perforate leather. Did not make a stitch worth a darn. (see what I did there?!) I've seen all sorts of nonsensical numbers and am trying to hone in on what exactly will work for me. What is the relation between the DBx and the actual needle sizing? What will work for me? Thank you all for not making fun of me. Paul