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  1. R8R

    Durkopp Adler 669 or 869?

    It's the other way around, the 669 is the synchronized binder machine. I mean the 869 may have a binder option (?) but the 669 can be ordered specifically set up for it. I have the 669, just took delivery before I moved shop but the little time I have on it so far has been great. I don't think you would have issues with anything you listed as long as the motor was up to task. These machines pair perfectly with Efka 1500 and 1550 motors, you can even mount the motor directly to the machine (shorter belt) instead of under the table.
  2. Sailrite has good products and support but mostly geared to canvas/sail making. Best thing about the Fabricator is the motor but you can buy one separately. (I had a Fabricator, and even on woven nylons I maxed it pretty quick) They are decent machines for the price but not nearly as refined as any Juki. They are very similar to a Consew P1206. Similar spec Juki would be the 1541 (horiz bobbin).
  3. Lol. Screen printing was my bread and butter for years. Basic manual machines start at $4k and full auto machines can easily go north of $100k (plus ancillary equipment like dryers, etc add tens of thousands more)
  4. Uwe (forum member here) has some good youtube vids about setting these up. The main thing is you want the clone machine to have the access hole in the cylinder arm to attach the binder plate to the lower oscillating parts inside the arm. Some clones do not have this access hole. I believe Sewpro sells one of these clones as a full binding package.
  5. The new style 335 (Pfaff and Mauser Spezial) are actually spec'd for 80nm to 100nm needle size (that's 12 to 16!) I've had good results timing mine to an 18 needle (then I can squeeze a 19 or 20 in there) but it struggles to sew anything heavier than 92 and it struggles to feed anything that would require thicker thread anyway. Anyway, that's my experience. Maybe the old style has a little more capacity.
  6. R8R

    White rotary

    I owned a vintage White rotary and it was great for making garments at home. I gave it to my kid who was in a fashion design class at the time. I would not recommend it for wallets or any leather work at all.
  7. I have a Mauser version (Pfaff) 335 pretty much exactly like the one in the vid and yes, it can do that round and round business all day. On vinyl, woven or light leather. I actually made my wife some crazy looking gauntlet/bracelet things using that exact technique. If you are trying to blaze through lighter materials it is an excellent machine. If you are doing heavier leathers or veg tan it will struggle. It will also struggle on anything heavier than 69 thread. You can force it to do 92 but it doesn't like it. It's a light touch machine.
  8. Yeah doesn't look like a sealed cover or reservoir, just more of a "keep your fingers out" and "keep grease from flying everywhere" type of part.
  9. Newer model 335 bobbin case is $110. Not the hook mind you, just the weird shaped bobbin case. I typically keep more than one case on hand so I can adjust each for different thread weights/tensions. On this machine it's not worth it.
  10. R8R

    Adler 669

    Btw the synchro adapter is DA part number 0667 105100. $20 part. It's also spec for the 867 but it fits in the 669. However, there is no access to a set screw for it, so just wrapped some tape on it and it's pressed in there. Seems fine. Once I get this whole thing together I'll make a big post about the setup. Leaving town Monday so it might not be for another week or so.
  11. R8R

    Adler 669

    Things are getting interesting. Ever notice no matter how many v-belts you have, they are too short or too long. ALWAYS.
  12. Cheap generic feet and other accessories avail for this machine all over ebay, etc, just like the rest of the mini walker machines (Reliable Barracuda, etc) The motor Sailrite specs on these is the real star here and it will push pretty much any upholstery class machine to the limit of what it can do. Holsters though? Nope. Belts and wallets and such yeah but these machines max out there. I would give a +1 vote to Wiz's suggestion of the Artisan portable setup for the 3200 BT machine. They are decent machines and that setup is specifically for tradeshows, events, rodeos and the like. If you were to lug a machine around to sew holsters and sheaths, and you didn't want to hand crank it, that would fit the bill.
  13. R8R

    Slow Down Servo on Juki 1508NH

    "Servo motor" can mean literally dozens of different motors. There is no one stock motor for the 1508NH unless it's an actual stock Juki motor. We need details. You generally want to: 1) Have a motor with some type of slow speed control, either in a menu system or speed potentiometer knob 2) Have the smallest pulley you can fit onto your particular motor 3) Possibly add a reducer wheel like that Techsew one or similar. Those are sold all over the place. The one Keystone sells is of excellent quality, with nice sealed bearings - https://store.keysew.com/parts/sewing-parts/sr-2
  14. R8R

    Sewing machine table height

    I'm 6'4" so my sit down table on the Juki flat bed machine is as high as it will go, like 32" or more? Can't remember exactly. I keep the machines high enough that I'm not slouching or cranking my neck downward too much. My other machines have the ergo stands so I can have them up or down as fits. I use DW 9000 series drum stools instead of standard chairs. I am a drummer, so they just feel right. I can have them up at max height (much higher than at my drum kit actually) and go from sit to stand quickly. Kinda like a task style chair. They don't roll around and they are back-less so they keep me upright.
  15. R8R

    Is my hook banjaxed?

    Wet/dry type sandpaper, saturated with sewing oil. Works great. Start with very fine and work up to polishing grades like 1500 and 2000 grit. Or yeah... new hook.