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  1. Thanks @Constabulary I’m drawing up my list of parts to buy for this machine from College Sewing, which include a new belt, bobbin winder and cotton stand. They looked at a Durkopp parts list to check availability & pricing, and a number of parts are not stocked or have very long lead times, if indeed they are still made. I did suggest this machine was very similar to Singer machines, but they wouldn’t guarantee any of the Singer parts fitted, and didn’t offer them. So I’ll take my chances I guess. I tried the feed dog screw from my Singer 211G166 and that fits, so I guess part #200106 from College sewing will be correct. The presser foot screw is also missing, but again the screw from my Singer fits, so I will order #201031 One of the screws that’s missing and causing problems is the bobbin case tension spring fixing screw. Whilst the bobbin case on my Singer looks almost identical, the tension spring fixing screw won’t fit the Durkopp bobbin case. It’s slightly too large in diameter. The other is the rear throat plate screw. This is the same size thread as the feed dog screws which fit, but obviously a different type of screw. Thanks again
  2. The 1mm & 2mm left hand bits arrived today. I drilled a short pilot first into the snapped thread, then went at it with the 2mm bit, and hoorah These left hand bits have gotten me out of a fair few sticks in the past, and they saved the day again! I'll source a replacement screw for the feed dog, and the bobbin, then start the process of timing the machine.
  3. The smallest I had was 3mm, which was too big, so I ordered some 1mm & 2mm bits yesterday. I've had good results with L/H bits before, so fingers crossed they work again!
  4. Thanks @DonInReno Some good ideas there! I really needed to get this feed bar out, it's just impossible to get decent access to the stuck thread with the feed bar in situ. So.... I removed the feed fork, simple enough. I then marked the feed drive rocking shaft for both rotation & lateral positioning where it is clamped. I then loosened the shaft clamp screws, and the grub screws for the two stop collars. I was then able to move the shaft to the left, and rotate it to gain access to the feed bar hinge screw and nut. Removing this screw released the feed bar. So now I need to contemplate removing the stuck thread! I will see if I have a small enough left-hand drill bit first!
  5. Thanks @Constabulary The top part of the hook looks OK I think, would there be a reason to replace it? A replacement through is very cheap, thanks for that! I checked for play between the fork & the cam, and there is hardly any play. I can't get a sheet of paper between the fork & the cam, so I guess this is some good news? The fork has the oil soaked felt to keep the two lubricated. As for the feed dog, I used an incorrect description above, I meant to say the feed dog is secured to the feed bar, not the feed fork. I can see the bar is secured with the feed bar hinge screw, one side of which is just accessible with a slotted head, but the other side (hexagonal nut head) is inaccessible. I tried to unscrew the hinge screw, without success so far. But now I see another problem... There isn't enough room to remove the hinge screw, either to the left or the right side, because it will hit the base casting before it can be removed given its length The only way I can see to remove the feed bar, is to remove the feed driving rock shaft first. Has anyone removed one of these feed bars? Thanks again
  6. Thanks @DonInReno In the manual it reads: 'The felt in the oil drip pan must always be sufficiently saturated with oil and must be in contact with the toothed wheels of the hook drive' I don't hold out much hope of finding one of those pans! As you say though, if the lower hook bearing & toothed wheels are manually & regularly oiled, hopefully that will suffice. I have oiled the machine, and it's running very nicely now. However, I've discovered a couple more problems, one of which I need advice on. I found there was a missing screw on the bobbin tension spring, so I'll source a replacement. The hook looks OK to me? It feels nice & sharp. A more concerning problem though - I noticed what I thought was a missing screw that secures the feed dog to the feed fork. However on removing the feed dog, it looks like the screw has snapped and the thread is still in there The eccentric feed fork looks like it could be quite difficult to remove, if replacements are available, could anyone advise? I could try removing the screw thread, I have some left-hand drill bits, and some screw extractors somewhere. It's a very small screw though...
  7. Thanks all! @DonInReno There's a catch-all oil pan beneath the machine, but it appears there should also be a small oil pan / reservoir beneath the hook mechanism? I will check out Uwe's video regards the timing, and carry out more research. @toxo is yours a 239-125, and if so does it have the small oil pan and / or the catch-all pan? I found a Durkopp 239-125 that sold recently, and a photo of the underside appears to show the small oil pan beneath the hook mechanism. Durkopp's 239 parts manual also details the pan (249323) with the felt pad (249325), see enclosed photos. Thanks again
  8. Hi everyone! One of the machines I acquired is a Durkopp Adler 239-125. I'm just about to try & sort it out. I managed to find a manual online, but it describes an oil pan under the hook mechanism. However my machine doesn't have this oil pan, and the mechanism is also different to that illustrated in the manual. Does anyone here have a 239-125 and can clarify? I'm also looking to find any information with regards timing / setting up of the machine. Thanks!
  9. Thanks for the replies! I don't know why, but I thought the Durkopp may have been the machine of choice. It seems the Singer is the one to keep. It has been refurbished at some point, and it's been repainted. It's missing the stitch length button, spring & clip. I will order these. I guess another thing is spares for the Singer appear to be readily available. I've found a copy of the service manual online, so I'm reading through that with regards to setting the machine up properly. I've notice a few more things with the Singer that I need advice on, should I start a new thread dedicated to that machine or ask here? @R8R That looks like a nice motor, I'll have to see if it's available in the UK. @dikman Yes it's on the best table of the three, presently with a Wimsew clutch motor. @mikesc What did you use to reduce the speed? A smaller pulley on your servo motor, or a secondary speed reduction drive? Also what servo motor did you go for? @Matt S Thanks for the info on the Wimsew / Highlead. I can cope with the smaller bobbins, it's not as if I'm going to be using the machine at any great length. The Singer does appear to be a good machine, and as I understand it the 'G' signifies it was manufactured in Germany. Pic of the hovercraft closed FYI.
  10. Hi all! So I'm new here, but this seems to be the place to be for information and guidance about these machines. I am looking to re-cover the vinyl seating in my hovercraft, and after getting some quotes () I've decided to give it a go myself. I've had experience with sewing machines & sewing in the past, just not industrial ones. I'm also an engineer, so hopefully I will be able to attend to the needs of my chosen machine. Anyway, I went mad last week, and bought THREE machines (it was a good deal!). All are compound feed machines with reverse (to my knowledge). A Wimsew W-0618-1, a Singer 211G166 and a Durkopp 239-125. I have read some information about the Singer & the Durkopp, but know little about the Wimsew. I'm guessing it's a Chinese copy of some kind. The Wimsew & Singer are working, but likely in need of a service. The Durkopp is very stiff, needs some work. Which would you choose as the best for my application? I will be sewing marine vinyl, up to four layers at some points (overlapping seams). I will keep one and install a servo motor. Anyway - here's a photo of the lineup!
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