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dikman

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About dikman

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    South Oz

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  1. On my list of stuff when I'm next near the plastics shop. Tried some aluminium, it cut through the powdercoating and while it etched the ally it wouldn't cut very deep (also what I expected). Lots of other materials to experiment with.
  2. I made a maker's stamp using jarrah, a dense Australian hardwood. Lots of charring, smoke and smell! It actually worked, inasmuch as the fine detail was there but I overlooked the fact that structurally the wood is very delicate and the lettering fell apart as soon as I touched it. Next was some Zenolite, this is a hard perspex with a thick coloured acrylic coating in this case white. It worked beautifully while engraving the white coating but once it burned through that and into the clear perspex it got interesting. The laser went through the perspex and started burning into the wood layer underneath. I had read that it won't cut clear perspex so this just confirmed it. The smell was not good even though I had a fan blowing over it next to an open door. I have an old kitchen rangehood that I'll rig up as an exhaust fan as in wet weather I can't keep the door open. All good fun.
  3. Geez, you're becoming paranoid about the machine! I haven't read too many reports of people having to replace busted bits on these machines (actually, I can't think of any off-hand).
  4. I bought 6 extra ones - then found the 6 I already had in another draw! Oil, you can either get the Lillywhite oil or just get some light hydraulic oil (ISO 32), it's basically the same stuff.
  5. Very nice work, Tim, those big pulleys should give very slow speed! Scott, if you've got a a butcher block that thick then by all means give it a try (but I would still put the angle iron underneath).
  6. Started playing with the engraver today, I was printing a test grid on 10mm plywood and thought it was producing a lot of smoke so stopped it and found a few holes burnt through!! Luckily I'd put a sheet of steel on the table first and this was a bit scorched! I also tried a piece of aluminium, it engraved ok but I don't think it will cut through (doesn't matter anyway, engraving only is fine). I'm going to try and cut a maker's stamp, maybe out of hardwood first, to see how it goes (lots of smoke ahead!). I bought a cheap Toshiba i5 laptop some time ago and it's perfect for this, I can leave it down in the shed with the engraver.
  7. A good plywood should be stronger (particularly if you laminate a couple of layers) and I agree with kgg about using metal angle iron underneath to give additional support, given the weight of the head unit. I used the same idea on one of my tables.
  8. Looks good to me! You did a nice job on the rose.
  9. Audio on that video is shocking!!!! They must have some pretty impressive circuitry in the controller to do that and I'm guessing it's got a hefty price tag.
  10. I'm sure you'll love it! The class 4 machines are built like tanks, are almost bulletproof and will sew through almost anything - but they are quite capable of breaking these heavy needles (so don't force thick items through them!!).
  11. In that case from what I've read on here over the years either dealer should be fine. As JLS said to all intents and purposes they are the same machine.
  12. If it was me I'd clean off as much grease as I could (at least it probably kept things from rusting!) and try and get some oil into the linkages. I doubt if grease would get into all the linkage pivot points as well as a light sewing machine oil could. There's a reason they put those little oil holes on some of the linkages. As for the thread . Perhaps the upholstery company needed a lubricated thread for something they were sewing? If you don't like it just replace the thread, not many on here use (or need) a lubricated thread.
  13. My take is it comes down to price and what is the best value, i.e. do you get any extra goodies thrown in? Either of those will do the same job.
  14. "Reverse cross-draw?" In other words, a canted left-side holster. Good work, though.
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