dikman

I buy my needles from here - https://www.elizabethmachines.com.au/brands/Elizabeth Unfortunately, if you're at Golden Grove then they're on the opposite side of town! Failing that you can order them online via ebay, as Constabulary said you already have all the info you need - system, size, type you want.

The MSDS for Lilly White oil indicates it's an IS0 32 (although I have seen a reference to ISO 22) oil, which is an hydraulic oil. I'm using ISO 68, which is a bit heavier but it's what I had handy and seems to work ok.

That could be very handy for someone having trouble getting the bobbin position correct.

The subject of Singer's SV machines came up (again) in a couple of recent posts, so I thought I'd put in what little I know under it's own topic. If anyone knows anything about them (preferably fact, not speculation) please feel free to add to the meagre knowledge available. I found this at the ISMACS site - " This list, published in 1926, reflects the sheer variety of available machines and the myriad purposes for which they were intended – from aeroplane hangars and balloons to vests and wrappers. And if there wasn’t a machine to do what you wanted, they’d build a SV (Special Variety) for you. " And then there's this, from needlebar.org (antique sewing machine forum) - http://needlebar.org/cm/displayimage.php?pid=8462 It is beneath the front cover of a 15KSV83, which it states has "certain hardened parts". "SV - Special Variety Machines This is the cover and description of a Kilbowie Special Variety machine for Artisans, Tailoring and Light Industrial use. The machine stands up to hard wear and constant usage. "It is fitted with certain hardened parts and, for greater production, a high speed band wheel of 17" is supplied with treadle operated machines. A special table is also supplied which provides more working space to enable the operator to handle the sewing of clothing, etc., with greater ease." "There are hundreds (maybe even a thousand) Singer KSV and SV varieties of sub-models. They are Special Variety industrial machines because there are so many nuances and specialized requirements in the sewn products industry eg not simply with hardened parts. Many of them had the model numbers re-assigned to new numbers. And there is no logical pattern to it. Here are a few examples: 16KSV3 became 16K121 32KSV3 became 32K6 45KSV58 became 45K67 Sometimes a large manufacturer will have a specialized requirement for a machine. They ask Singer if they can make a machine to their specs and they order a bunch of them. Sometimes other manufacturers might be making a similar product or see that they too could use this feature. So then they might place an order for them. So it's not just the military or specially hardened parts. It can be anything that is different from the standard model. e.g. a machine might be set up to sew only a particular notion from a single vendor." I found the reference to the re-numbering particularly interesting, because I'd noticed (and Darren Brosowski also mentioned it in another post) that SV machines seemed to have low numbering in the particular class they're in, numbering below where the "normal" models start. Somewhere I came across a list of Singer models and classes, and within that list were many SV models, with W, K and G lettering indicating they were made all over the place! Unfortunately I'm blowed if I can find it again!!

Impressive looking machine.

Horses for courses, as they say , just didn't work for me. I was aware that someone got a speed reducer working with a positioner, I just couldn't remember who, but I think that is an exception as there have been a few who couldn't get it to work (including me). I wouldn't like to just assume it will work with any servo.

Rocky's idea of a thread tensioner could work, something with just enough tension applied to keep any slack from occurring as the coils come off the spool.

Interesting idea, the only potential problem I can see is that what is now the bottom of the spool will have to be a very tight fit against the "base" as loose coils will have a tendency to gather there and may catch.

My first servo came with a needle positioner (because it seemed like a good idea). I used it once and took it off! As Wiz said, not needed for slow speed sewing. They also don't generally work if you fit a speed reducer or replace the handwheel with a larger pulley.

Mike, that link goes to "example domain". Your French keyboard giving you problems again?

Actually, Mike, I've done just that. I couldn't push the awl through when I made a holster with a thickish welt, and none of my machines are capable of handling more than 1/2" so I made an adapter to fit a spare awl bit into a rivet press. It will go through 7/8", the maximum that I can fit under it (for now). That will let me pre-punch the holes and then when I put it in the pony run my awl through it and then the needles.

One interesting little fact I've discovered is that if I input a picture from elsewhere (photoshop, for example) the engraver software reduces it by 58%! A bit bizarre as it's a funny figure and took a bit of testing and calculating to prove it. The software might be pretty rudimentary, although adequate, but it seems a bit strange. It also occasionally won't print and the software needs to be re-started, no big deal, just annoying. When it prints though it's great.

AArrrggghhhh! Idiot! I clicked on the link in the wrong post! I'll delete it forthwith!

oops. wrong post.

Ahh, ye olde MMO...no matter what forum I'm on it gets a mention. Way back when it was treated by many as necessary to anything that used an internal combustion engine or needed lubricating! And still is by some........

I've been trying to convince myself to learn 3D modelling so I could make a maker's mark stamp, but without success (every time I try it all gets too hard!). So, having recently bought one of those dinky little laser engravers I thought "I wonder....". A bit of doodling later with photoshop and I got something that sort of works. Not sure how practical it is yet. The round one gives better detail on the cactus but smaller printing, the oval one is probably a better design, with larger lettering, but then I loose detail on the cactus. A work-in-progress, as they say. Oh, and burning into garment leather (chrome tan, I guess) stinks!!!!!!!

It's a good start, however most motors appear to come with a 3" pulley, which will only give you a 2:1 reduction. If you fit a 2" to the motor you will get 3:1, an easy option before going to a reducer.

I suspect that most just use the yellow beeswax, I can't see the point in (presumably) paying more for white wax. The leather won't care if the wax hasn't been "purified". Incidentally, I just looked up the MSDS for "Saddler's Oil" - it's nearly all Naptha, a petroleum derived solvent. I think I'll pass on using that.

You're quite right of course, gymnast, if the needle was in backwards there's no way you would get any stitches! As for the thread path, the only thing I can see that's not quite right is the angle of the thread coming down from the needle clamp, it looks like the wire guide is missing? In reality, however, it won't make much difference as at least one of my machines is missing the guide but it works fine. Your testing methodology is impressive, it's just not something that many of us worry about, we tend to "wing it" and just learn about tension by experience. I don't think we've seen anyone delve into tensions in such a detailed manner before.

That first one looks exactly the same as the last one I bought (locally) right down to the position of the power switch. Works fine, but I couldn't get it slow enough for my needs even with a 7" pulley on the head unit and a 2" on the motor, so I made a reducer as well with 2" and 5" pulleys. This is the one that now does 1 stitch every 2 1/2 seconds. My Pfaff 335 has a 10" pulley and a 2" on the motor, using a Skyrit motor and that works well at sewing slow. There are photos in my other posts somewhere. They're all brushless motors.

Welcome to the forum, that machine is potentially a good choice (assuming it works ok). I would remove the motor (very heavy!!) and have a good look at the clutch mechanism to see if it's working properly and/or gunked up - although if you're going to fit a servo it's probably not worth the effort. I don't know anything about the one you listed but on the face of it looks ok. Thread breaking - check the timing, bobbin feeding the correct direction, needle threaded the correct direction (if you go the wrong way it definitely causes all sorts of problems - I still do it occasionally!), tensions, threading path, needle scarf facing the right way. I'm sure others will chime in here. Anyhow, while you are trying to get it stitching properly you don't need a motor as the best way is to handwheel it slowly to see what is happening.

Fitting a larger pulley in place of the handwheel is actually a very good option in place of a speed reducer (not quite as effective but works well). It's something I do with my machines. I didn't mention it because I didn't want to confuse you. While Wiz is correct about the "push button" servos, in practice it's not an issue for me as I run a 45 mm pulley on all my motors, larger pulleys in lieu of the handwheels and a reducer on a couple as well (one machine will do one stitch every 2 1/2 seconds!!). My aim is to give slow controllable feeds, and while it works for me probably won't suit the more competent users.

If you ask a question about anything you will always get conflicting reviews. I didn't comment on which one to buy as I'm in Australia so the ones you mentioned aren't readily available. I bought 3 from Aliexpress (Skyrit brand) and one "locally" via ebay (a fairly generic type). No problems with any of them. If you find a majority of opinions in favour of one brand then that's probably as good a basis as any on which to make a decision. Pulleys - most servo shafts appear to be the same size, although there is the odd one that is different. Either buy the pulley from the same place as the motor or wait until you get it and measure the shaft to make sure.

Looks to me like you got a great deal! Make sure you fit a 2" pulley on the motor (every bit helps) but a speed reducer will certainly help, as it will give increased torque at slow speeds. Best thing, however, is to just fit the servo first and try it as is, you might find it works fine for your needs.