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ScottWolf

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    baseball
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  1. Mop and glow can be used with similar performance to resolene.
  2. Yes. No, nothing else. Don't shake the bottle before use, it will create bubbles. If while you are applying it, you get a bubble on your item, you need pop it, so it doesnt dry with a bubble on it. Its an acrylic sealer, same as mop and glow, like you use on the floor, so it creates a shell on top of the leather. You dont want dried in bubbles in your shell. Cutting it 50/50 will help reduce that as well as reduce the amount of shine. Apply 1-2 coats as needed
  3. Did you rub/buff the item after dying it until no more dye came off on the rag? If you didn't do this step, this is likely your issue. As for resolene, use the neutral, as you'll be able to use it for other projects as well. Cut it 50/50 with water, avoid bubbles when applying it.
  4. If you make it as a balm, you can scoop it out with your fingers and rub it into the leather by hand. If you make it harder, like a shoe polish, you can use a rag to apply it and rub it in. The heat from you hand and or the friction of the rag will warm it up as you are applying it.
  5. Just happened to come across this picture from Ashland Leather's Horween wallets. And it looks like your dye drama is actually something they do intentionally. So kudos.
  6. Check out Angelus.com, they make acrylic paints for leather and have a ton of videos, although a lot of them are on painting tennis shoes, the principal is the same.
  7. Follow the ratios in the recipe and you'll get to an end product to your liking quicker. A 1:2 ratio ( 1 wax, 2 oil) will get you to a semi firm product. If you go 1:3 you will have a very soft butter. The more oil you add to the ratio, the softer it will continue to get but after about 1:5 ratio it's usually too soft and melts very quickly to the touch.
  8. I use an all natural wax based conditioner/finish that I make myself for my projects. I posted a step by step recipe , along with ratios , etc on how to make it that will work with pretty much all the common ingredients used/found in leather working products. You can tinker around with it or just follow the recipe as is. Here is the link:
  9. I have read that this is what gives leather that leather smell, but I am not sold on it entirely . I recently tried applying it( Cod liver oil) on both the grain and hide side of a finished piece in a very, very light coat using a rag. The piece indeed smelled like fish for a few days and has subsided, but I am calling BS on it giving it that leather smell or even being worth the conditioning given the stink from using so little of it. I can only image how much it would reek if a liberal application of it is applied to a hide. To the OP: I'd recommend airing the piece out for about a week or more to see if it subsides, if waiting that long is acceptable to you. If it doesn't , I'd ask for a refund from the vendor.
  10. I've been using this recipe and variations of it for well over a year. No issues with it to date. I'm not really surprised, as this and some of the variations of ingredients mentioned are the exact same ingredients used/found in various commercially available products per their MSDS. The only exception is that in some cases, the commercial versions also use cheap oils/mineral oils, etc, that I choose to leave out. I'm currently testing out a variation of the above with the addition of D-Limonese added. It is an all natural solvent/terpene derived from citrus/oranges. While it acts as a typical solvent/penetrator, it has no negative health concerns and is even sold as a dietary supplement and can be ingested. As is to be expected, it does have a slight natural orange smell to the final product that is pleasant but not overpowering.
  11. No problem. Happy to share the knowledge with others and maybe persuade others to share their recipes more openly.
  12. 100% pure Anhydrous Lanolin, which is what I use in my recipe, is refined extensively and is what is used in cosmetics. Generally it is in/around the $7+ an ounce price range.
  13. Lanolin is actually one of the ingredients I mention in the link above to my recipe for leather conditioner. In doing research, I did find some of the more expensive commercial leather conditioner products used lanolin, and I think that is why their price was higher than other products without lanolin. Here is what my recipe for leather conditioner with lanolin added into it looks like.
  14. I just posted an actual recipe on how to make an all natural conditioner in the forum here that addresses conditioners. Here is the link to it:
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