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  1. I've seen this attributed to neatsfoot oil in old leather tanning text, as well as had items exhibit the same white film that you have. From na article titled: "The Application of Oils and Greases to leather", page 102 page 102: "oils such as noatsfoot opinions differ widely. Neatsfoot oil is a very common one in England as a material for use with fine leathers, but Eitner warns against its use on the ground that it is liable to cause a white spue and also to give the leather a disagreeable smell." page 117: "The defect above mentioned of the skins when in a warehouse throwing off a white spue or deposit on the grain surface, particularly noticeable on black leathers, is chiefly due to this cause, the acid in the skins causing the neatsfoot oil and soap fat liquor to spue."
  2. Something to keep in mind, that document address the Tanning processes and ingredients used to make tanned leather, not necessarily how to use oil, greases on finished (tanned) leathers.
  3. I just bought a bottle of it off of Amazon a few days ago. The envelope showed up empty and I contacted them and had another bottle on my door step the next day. I normally use Barge, but figured I'd give this stuff a try after reading this thread.
  4. Hence why I said to check the MSDS/SDS if one is adamant about actually using a product with real mink oil in it. If you haven't checked the MSDS, you really don't know what you're getting in the tin.
  5. Most mink oil doesn't actually contain oil from minks as one would think. It is usually an amalgamation of products, sometimes petroleum based. One has to look at the MSDS/SDS of the mink oil to ascertain what is actually in it. Not all mink oils are equal and real mink oil is typically very expensive. Also, what is it you are looking to protect from? Are you looking to waterproof/resist an item or condition it? Here is a recipe for a conditioner that will likely do what you are looking for, both condition and protect.
  6. UPDATE: here are a few other variations on the original recipe that I have tried and found to be good to go. *alternative ingredients* 2 tbs. of coconut oil 2 or 3 tbs. of beeswax (depending on how firm you like it) ¼ cup of sweet almond oil ¼ cup of castor oil Another variation of ingredients that works as well, but will cost more has the following ingredients: 25g | 0.88oz Beeswax 25g | 0.88oz Shea butter 17g | .6oz Jojoba ( beads or oil) 17g | .6oz Castor oil 17g | .6oz Coconut oil 2 teaspoons Anhydrous Lanolin **If you want to make any of these recipes tacky, add tree/pine resin. This can be bought on Amazon in rock form. You will need to crush it with a hammer if the rocks are large. Add it to the mix and allow to melt while stirring it in with the other ingredients. You may want to melt it first in a separate pot until it is liquid and then add it to to your other ingredients. Start with a small amount (19g / .7 oz) in a test batch to determine how tacky you want it before doing a larger batch or using more resin.
  7. I use it to seal after dyeing and a thorough rub down. I have had no issues with dye rubbing off after applying it as a sealer, but it is critical that a good rub down is done before applying it as a sealer. If you want the feel to be on the tacky/grippy side, increase the ratio of beeswax to the recipe, as that will give it a slight tacky feel after its been applied to the leather. It will eventually soak in be rubbed off from use, but another application will bring that tacky feel back without being greasy or staining.
  8. I would suggest treating/conditioning the jacket with Atom wax and let it soak in for 24-48 hours before applying anything else on top of it. As an alternative to Sno-Seal, which I don't think will work well on a jacket, I would offer up that you look at a DWR finish that's made for leather, like the one in this link. http://www.nikwax-usa.com/en-us/products/waterproofing-wax-for-leather-liquid/
  9. Generally speaking, all that is needed is around 25psi for most things
  10. Take a look at the Badger 105 airbrush, it is what I use for my projects and unless you are doing large quantities/large products, it should work fine for doing edge work right out of the box. You'll likely have to buy a small adapter to fit your compressor hose to the brush, but those are in the 2 dollar range typically. It's not the cheapest, and its not the most expensive, its about in the middle and it has proven to be durable over time.
  11. Dr Jacksons is primarily a Mineral oil product per the MSDS, which is why it will darken the leather considerably more. Bicks 4 is a good choice to condition without darkening that much.
  12. Use a conditioner on them and let it soak in about 24hrs and then use a dauber or an air brush to apply the resolene. Plan for 2-3 light coats of resolene, allowing for dry time between coats and they should each look distinct, while not absorbing water from the glass/cup placed on them.
  13. You are in luck, as I actually refurbish and work on baseball gloves as a hobby. Untreated , the coasters above will absorb water and stain/darken like any other piece of leather that doesn't have a top coat. Two ways you can go about it IMO, is to do what I do when I've either conditioned or re dyed a glove. I use the all natural conditioner that I posted the recipe for in the forum here and hand rub it in. It will darken the leather some, but not drastically and provide some protection from moisture, as it is beeswax based. If you want the dried out and in need of conditioning look like the coasters above, then either resolene cut 50/50 or Angelus MATTE sealer will keep that appearance. Make sure you get the MATTE version if you use Angelus products, as they have 4 versions that range from matte to super shiny pattent leather in their shine when dry. Personally, I'd condition them and give them back a little bit of their color, as you won't loose that worn look and may even bring some of the text printing out better.
  14. Here is a link to an actual recipe on how to make a conditioner to soften your leather.
  15. The benefit of pull the dot snaps over standard snaps is their ability to resist inadvertently un snapping from anything but a direct linear pulling down on the snap itself. So things like bending over, twisting, any normal movement , to include force on force having another person trying to pull your pistol/holster off of you, will not cause the snap to come undone. This is especially beneficial when its used as an attachment/retention method on holsters, which is pretty much as an industry standard found on quality holsters, be it kydex or leather. I can understand your dislike of clips, as historically, they have all been substandard and or cheaply made, be it a FOMI clip or the super cheap metal money clip type clips found on every cheap holster ever made. However, I will say this, DCC clips are not like anything you've probably ever used before in regards to their ability to retain an item/holster to the wearer and not bend out of shape over time. There is a very good reason why they are extremely popular in the firearms training industry right now. Short of fixed loops, the DCC clip is an excellent option for IWB holster retention. The best part, is that they are relatively inexpensive and can be retro fitted on most kydex holsters and or built into leather ones. Builders like 5 shot leather, Bitterroot, Milt Sparks are offering them as a user option to customers.
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