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ScottWolf

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  1. Where I have found doing this makes a difference is when you have a piece of leather or a leather item where there are sections/portions that are drier or dried out from age/use than the surrounding areas. Applying water to dampen (not soak) the entire piece/section before dying results in a more uniform dye job when it dries. As mentioned, it may result it a slightly lighter finish and take a little bit longer to dry but its nothing a second coat won't fix if you want it darker, but it ensures that the end product doesn't have spots/areas that are darker/lighter than the surrounding leather.
  2. As I stated in my initial post, I am FAR from being woke/PC or any of that other BS, because that is what it is. And no, as I am sure you know, squaw wouldn't be any better, that would be worse actually. Feelings have nothing to do with it, this is about pointing out an ignorant misnomer that people perpetuate. Yes, it might be pedantic, but would you rather someone told you that you were doing something (anything) wrong instead of just letting you continue to show that ignorance?
  3. Sorry, but it's not artistic license, it's simply wrong. It's as inaccurate as referring to someone that is of Asian descent as Oriental. Rugs are oriental, not a people. There is no such thing as an Indian princess and it's not a term of endearment or any other rationalization one may come up with. It's one thing to be ignorant of facts, but when presented with those facts and one chooses to try and explain them away and or ignore them, then it's just stupidity.
  4. Sorry if this is too pedantic, and I am definitely not being PC/woke here, but there is no such thing as an "Indian Princess". As a Native American, I can definitively say that in Native American culture, there is no such social hierarchy like what is found in a Monarchy, where there are such things as Princesses and Princes, etc. That aside, I do think the leather work is commendable in its detail and craftsmanship. Kudos.
  5. Just bumping this to the top with an update. I know some of you like to use things like NFO and Mineral oils, etc. I was curious and played around with them, and the above recipe works just fine as long as you keep the ratios balanced. The beeswax and mineral oil mixture looks a lot like petroleum jelly , just firmer in its consistency and not as sticky. It puts a nice shine on a piece of leather, as well as brings faded color back to life on worn pieces. I'd use other conditioners before hand if you really want to condition the leather and only use the beeswax/MO mixture as a final dressing to give it a bit of shine and bring some color out. I had similar results with the beeswax and NFO mixture but found that adding Lanolin to the mixture made for a decent conditioner and softener of stiff leather pieces without having to worry about over saturation of the leather with NFO.
  6. Start with Isopropanol rubbing alcohol and dab it on the spot and blot it off, don't wipe. You may have to do this several times repeatedly. If ISO doesn't work, you can try D-Limonene and or "goof off". As mentioned, this may lighten and or remove some of the color from the leather. If this happens, try conditioning the area to see if it darkens it up or you can touch up the area with some dye to blend it in
  7. 99% of all "belly bands" out there are junk and safety concerns. There is one actual belly band that is not only modular and can accommodate a kydex/leather holster with actual retention along with other accessories. That one exception is made by UNITY tactical and it's called the CLUTCH. It's also not for everyone, as it was/is a specific requirement made item for a specific target audience. If the CLUTCH does not satisfy your requirments , then the next thing I would recommend that will likely fit your need is the ENIGMA, made by PHLster. It is by far, one of the most concealable systems currently out there that is both highly concealable and safe.
  8. I've used Angelus acrylic paint for leather a good deal with an air brush and with a paint brush. The best advice I can offer is to watch some of the video on Angelus's website and a guy by the name of Dillion Dejesus. Most of the videos are about painting on leather tennis shoes, but the how's and why's of using angelus paint on leather are spot on. Be sure to understand how to use duller, thinner and the right kind of finish, it makes a huge difference in how your project turns out.
  9. Just a SWAG from the picture, it appears to be about 1/4" wide or wider and about 4-5 ounces. Looks like it might be oil tanned leather.
  10. I've seen this attributed to neatsfoot oil in old leather tanning text, as well as had items exhibit the same white film that you have. From na article titled: "The Application of Oils and Greases to leather", page 102 page 102: "oils such as noatsfoot opinions differ widely. Neatsfoot oil is a very common one in England as a material for use with fine leathers, but Eitner warns against its use on the ground that it is liable to cause a white spue and also to give the leather a disagreeable smell." page 117: "The defect above mentioned of the skins when in a warehouse throwing off a white spue or deposit on the grain surface, particularly noticeable on black leathers, is chiefly due to this cause, the acid in the skins causing the neatsfoot oil and soap fat liquor to spue."
  11. Something to keep in mind, that document address the Tanning processes and ingredients used to make tanned leather, not necessarily how to use oil, greases on finished (tanned) leathers.
  12. I just bought a bottle of it off of Amazon a few days ago. The envelope showed up empty and I contacted them and had another bottle on my door step the next day. I normally use Barge, but figured I'd give this stuff a try after reading this thread.
  13. Hence why I said to check the MSDS/SDS if one is adamant about actually using a product with real mink oil in it. If you haven't checked the MSDS, you really don't know what you're getting in the tin.
  14. Most mink oil doesn't actually contain oil from minks as one would think. It is usually an amalgamation of products, sometimes petroleum based. One has to look at the MSDS/SDS of the mink oil to ascertain what is actually in it. Not all mink oils are equal and real mink oil is typically very expensive. Also, what is it you are looking to protect from? Are you looking to waterproof/resist an item or condition it? Here is a recipe for a conditioner that will likely do what you are looking for, both condition and protect.
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