Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ScottWolf

  • Rank

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    leather work i
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    DuckDuckGo internet search

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's not about the eating of it as much as it is about how it reacts with other ingredients. There is a reason why there is a preponderance of leather care and conditioner products that use beeswax and its by products in its formulation among the other ingredients that are mentioned in previous posts in this thread.
  2. Tom, here is a good paper that discusses beeswax, section 7 specifically. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7827872/
  3. I am assuming that this is a paste or similar to a grease/creamy paste and not a solid given that it only has tallow and NFO in it? If so, how are you keeping the two substances from separating? Beeswax is a good ingredient to use with NFO , as it retards the NFO from oxidizing ( some people erroneously use the word rancid to describe oxidization). It has been my experience that leather will squeak when it is unable to slide smoothly. If your product is too tacky, it is because the ratios are off and you could have too much beeswax in it. When the ratios are done correctly, the beeswax doesnt create a sticky/tacky feel when it is applied and it won't cause squeaking. I would suggest trying some beeswax as it will give you a semi solid product that is less messy than a grease/creme and it'll keep your ingredients mixed and slow oxidization.
  4. By all means, go ahead and make some and sell it. Let us know how it goes over at the fair.
  5. Glad you found the information useful to you. By all means, make as many variations as you want and see how they perform on your leather. I don't think the tallow version will soften the seat too much. It would take an excessive amount to do that IMO. As for cleaning, a pH balanced soap is preferred, as leather is acidic and most soaps are alkaline. Something like Dawn , which is low on the pH scale, can be used safely. I am not a fan of glycerine soap, but I know some people use it religiously on veg tan/horse tack.
  6. Glad to hear this post helped you out. Olive and coconut oil will darken leather significantly. Its great for old dark colored pieces, as it brings it back nicely. But if you put it on a beige/camel or veg tan piece of leather, it darkens it a lot. If you use the ingredients I listed in the recipe post, you'll find that it doesnt darken the piece too much. Any conditioner will initially darken a piece but after its absorbed in the color usually lightens up. Tallow is great for dry pieces or to just to keep a soft supple piece going. The batch I made using tallow has become my go to tin for general conditioning. The batch I made with mineral oil in it is more of a finishing product, as the mineral oil adds a bit of sheen and makes the leather pop. I only see water being used in liquid and or lotion types of conditioner, such as Lexol as an example. 80% is water, 5-10% is neatsfoot oil and the rest is emulsifiers,preservatives and or stabilizers. If you want a semi solid balm, there is no need to add water, as then you'd need to add an emulsifier to keep the water and your oils from separating.
  7. Take a look at Colorado leather balm or Smith's leather balm, as each is an all natural product and are both made in the USA. If you want even more control of what you use, check out the DIY recipe I posted on how to make your own leather conditioner using all natural products.
  8. If you do a small test batch in a 2 or 4 oz tin and mix in the ingredients,you will get a visual reference as to how much of either Vitamin E or citronella is intermixed with the other ingredients. You dont need a lot of either for it to be effective when the ratio you are working against is 1 part beeswax. By starting at .5 for each just as a test, which is half of the ratio you are working against, you will get a good idea as to whether it is enough or too much. If it is too much you will end up with a final product that is more like a cream and or so soft that it will never be firm/hard . I think you are over thinking this, as it's not exact, as your ingredients might differ from mine in how they interact with one another and or from batch to batch. This can become more apparent if you decide to add essential oils in it for smell, as 5 drops might be enough in one batch to get the desired smell and when you open a new/different bottle of essential oil, 5 drops may not be enough. To put this in perspective, look at a commercially available products MSDS and you will see a percentage of the ingredients. Very often you will see ingredients like you listed and more, and they will typically say +/- 5 percent, sometime +/- 10% but typically for only one of those ingredients. Meaning very little of those ingredients is actually used in the make up of that product. In most cases of liquid conditioners its typical to see 50-80% is water, followed by a small percentage of chemical stabilizers/preservatives and or emulsifiers and then lower percentages of the actual conditioning ingredient(s).
  9. From my initial post, here are the general ratios to start with: There is no way to tell you specifically how many drops of an ingredient or how much vitamin E, etc to put in there. You can put in as much or as little as you want to get the desired end product. The thing you do need to keep in mind is that the more "oils" you add to the recipe, the softer the end product is going to be. So it will go from a solid/balm to a cream unless you increase the ingredients that give it it's firmness, like beeswax.Carnauba,etc, proportionality as you add more ingredients that are oils. So if you increase the number of parts of oils by say 50%, you need to increase the amount of beeswax by at least 50% or more depending on what you want the end product to be (solid/soft/balm) just for starters and see what it produces in a small batch. if it comes out the way you want it, make it in a larger batch, using the newly adjusted ratios.
  10. Just an update to this thread. I've continued to try different combinations of ingredients using the a fore mentioned ratios. Ingredients such as avocado oil, sunflower oil, Palm oil, etc. I've found that some of the combinations have different affects on the leather, be it the shine, color or suppleness that it produces. So even if you've found a combination of ingredients that works for you, try experimenting with the amounts of a given ingredient to start, and see if it improves the performance of your conditioner. I now have a series of differing conditioners that I use in steps for a given piece of leather and not just one by itself. This has proven helpful in bringing back very dry or poorly cared for pieces in stages.
  11. Glad to see you got it under control and it worked out.
  12. I know people use and some swear by NFO, but the simple fact is that you can never really get it all out of the leather. Which is why learned people caution others from using it excessively, as the long term effects of it is when it eventually oxidizes in the leather is that stiff,greyish/white color leather turns over time when not cared for. Which is why I don't think you will have very much luck with continuing to wash/bathe the pieces. Have you tried applying a beeswax based product as I suggested earlier to it yet?
  13. Before you start removing rivets, try applying a beeswax based leather conditioner to the grain side and rub it in over several applications. You'll likely still gets some rub off as you do this but the introduction of the beeswax in the conditioner should help reduce the rub off and seal the grain side from the NFO migration. Once you do that, let it sit for a day or so to soak in. After which, you can go back and touch up color if need be and then do your resolene sealer.
  14. The flesh side (back side) will typically will always penetrate/soak up what ever is placed on it , sometimes crazy quick too depending on the piece of leather,than the grain side. I learned this the hard way when I accidentally touched a dye dauber to the backside of a piece that was already dyed a different color and the accidental color was already on the surface as soon as it happened. If the NFO has soaked through evenly and there isnt any discoloration of your dye job, you can opt to let it dry and see if the color remains consistent and hasn't lightened or become splotchy. The other option is to rub/buff the piece down with a rag, to remove the NFO that's has migrated to the surface, which will likely remove some of your dye job in the process. In which case you can allow the piece to dry for a day and then re-dye/touch up the piece to restore the depth of color you want.
  15. "Oil tanned" is term used for leather that has been tanned and then impregnated with oils as part of the tanning and dyeing process. It isn't actually part of the tanning though, it is done post tanning and it does affect the leather in that it is softer, has somewhat of a pull up and is easier to break in, which is why you see boots and other footwear being marketed as using "oil tanned" leather, as the addition of more oils makes it a durable and somewhat water resistant leather. Redwings boots are marketed this way. In the end, it is chrome tanned leather with the additional Oil process that makes it oil tanned leather. If you burn a piece of chrome tanned leather, it will smolder and continue to burn after the heat is removed and will also produce a greenish blue smudge mark if you run it across a piece of paper. Veg tan wont really burn at all and will stop when the heat is removed and will leave a black smudge when rubbed against a piece of paper.
  • Create New...