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MtlBiker

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About MtlBiker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    Camping, sailing, motorcyles, bicycles, photography.

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  • Interested in learning about
    Leather, Cordura, general industrial sewing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search for a particular thread

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  1. Oh! Thanks for clarifying that! I was looking it the batteries purely in terms of their voltage. Your explanation makes perfect sense!
  2. I'm sorry that my attempt at a humorous reply didn't come across the what I'd intended. I was reminded of a cooking class that I took a few years ago when the chef asked the group how often they sharpened their knives... One replied "Every two or three months" and he replied, "Oh, you only use it every two or three months?" It was meant to be funny. And I did include a smiley face. And I did ask if you were using something other than alkalines in the Zap.
  3. My reason for posting was to find a way to save money because I was going through the alkalines like crazy. Thanks to @GatoGordo suggesting I try rechargeable batteries, (which I'd been reluctant to) I've now got a solution I'm very happy with. I already have a bunch of rechargeables, so without having to buy anything else or jury-rig some kind of power supply, I'm very happy now with how they work. Much much better (longer usage before having to recharge or replace) than with alkalines. I believe that the lithium batteries would work better than regular alkalines, but since the Eneloops I'm now using work so well, I'm not even going to try.
  4. You were right! Incredible difference between using alkalines or rechargeables! I never imagined that would be the case, since fully charged Eneloops come in at 12.75 volts while fresh premium alkalines are 16.03v. That's why I hadn't tried the rechargeables before. (I know I have higher mAh rechargeables around here somewhere, but the Eneloops I'm trying are only 2000 mAh and they're working incredibly well!)
  5. It's MORE fragile? How does that make it better? In any case, contrary to what I'd believed, the rechargeable batteries DO seem to last longer than premium alkalines (and they're much cheaper to run!). It's funny that this seems to be the case, because fresh alkalines come in at 16.03 volts while recharged Eneloops come in at 12.75 volts. I thought that would mean the alkalines would work better, but it doesn't look like that's the case. I've already replaced the tip (and have extra tips on hand). I believe I thought it was the tip when the Zap II stopped working as well. I didn't realize at the time how quickly alkaline batteries (even those showing a higher voltage than fullly charged rechargeables) stopped being effective. I doubt very much that I have a bad one. After testing with rechargeable Eneloops (even though with only 2000 mAh) the Zap II is working much much better. In the year you have yours, how often have you used it? One or two threads? Or maybe you're already using rechargeables?
  6. Thank you. It actually looks almost like the Thread Zap II. I wonder (and doubt) if it would be much better on battery life. But rigging it to use external power would be very cool. What did your friend do to set that up? On the surface I'd guess all it would take is a small power supply and some jury rigged connection. Good idea... thanks! The Thread Zap II was cheap enough, even if I destroy it I can easily get another. I'm going to look into rigging something up. Might even be possible to attach an external battery, which I've got plenty of... like what I use to power/charge my iPhone and iPad.
  7. Thanks. That looks really nice, but it costs $200 Canadian and for that price I can keep on buying batteries for my Zap II for a long time. Besides, I already have a Weller soldering "gun" plus a couple of butane powered Weller portable soldering pens which I always carried in my motorcycle repair kit when touring. Just in case. Those butane ones would be perfect (size, variety of tips) other than for the fact they're not instant on, nor quick enough to cool off afterwards. The Thread Zap II is really quite perfect for the purpose other than the speed it uses batteries. I'm going to give rechargeables a try in it. Cheers!
  8. And you use the Zap how often? Once a month? I'll give the Eneloop batteries a try (I actually have a bunch) and I hadn't before because I was under the impression (maybe wrongly) that the rechargeables had slightly lower voltages than good alkalines. I'll check that out. A "Bovi"???
  9. I've been using a BeadSmith Thread Zap II for a few months now and generally always burn the end of my threads. This thing goes through batteries like crazy! It uses a single AA battery and once voltage drops to about 1.35 or so, it just stops burning thread properly. A fresh battery always works incredibly well. What do you folks use for thread burning? A lighter just doesn't give the precise touch for burning threads but is great for the ends of webbing, etc. I have an old Weller soldering iron. Has anyone found (or made) a better tip for burning threads? Would that work? I guess you'd need some sort of adapter to be able to attach a tip thin enough to do any good. Suggestions?
  10. No, I got the machine with the servo motor. So no clutch motor here. But with any luck, I'll have the replacement motor tomorrow and will bring the defective motor back to the dealer when everyone reopens. Then, depending on whether he replaces or repairs, I should have a spare servo. And thanks to your earlier advice, I do have a 45mm pulley for my motor and with it I can sew slow enough that I'm happy. Happy New Year!
  11. Thank you Kelly! That looks good, but with $100 shipping cost and kinda forever to receive it, I'm going with a different option. I was strongly suggested (privately, but by an experienced member here) that I'd be better off replacing the motor with the identical make/model and that in very many cases the newer servos with electronic digital displays were troublesome. I was pointed towards Japan Sewing in Toronto and they actually had an identical servo replacement in stock and ready to ship. I've ordered it and may even receive it tomorrow (Canpar from Toronto to Montreal is often overnight but the holidays and Covid might affect that). Total cost, including tax and shipping was $168 Canadian!! May not be quite as modern as the model you linked to, but it's the easiest solution and by far the quickest. With the forced closure of businesses here I'm going to be stuck at home for a few weeks and I really wanted to get this machine fixed up pronto. Happy New Year, and keep well.
  12. Since changing to a small motor pulley on my 206RB-5 I'm able to run at a much slower speed than before. And at slow speed I hear a "knocking" sound from the servo. It's like car engine valves needing adjustment... at idle you hear the knocking but at higher revs you don't. I hadn't heard the noise before. Running the servo with the belt removed (so as to eliminate the machine itself as being the noise source) the knocking is there. Getting to my dealer would be really really inconvenient, plus due to the forced Covid business closures here, it might only be the end of January when I could do that. So I want to investigate my options in terms of getting a new servo motor. Any suggestions about which servo to buy and from where? Hopefully there's a Canadian source. If the cost is $2-300 (hopefully Canadian) then I think it would be worth it to me. Thanks for any suggestions... Knocking Servo
  13. Yeah, it was a black cat. SIGH Wants to get into everything.
  14. That storage box looks like exactly what I need for the future. I'd never heard of Wawak before, and I'm glad to see they also have a Canadian site with Canadian prices and free shipping (over $100 orders). I've just ordered three of those boxes as well as some other stuff they have. Thanks for the tip!! Good idea to test the thread via the breaking strength. I'm certainly going to be more careful in the future and have ordered some storage boxes to keep my bobbins more organized.
  15. Pretty dumb I know, but I’ve got half a dozen bobbins wound with v69 and v92 black thread. I’ll blame it on my cat for knocking them off the shelf but now I can’t tell which is which. I tried using a micrometer to measure their thicknesses but that’s probably not possible due to thread compression. What I did was to put the bobbins in a bobbin holder that had the tension set correctly for v92 thread and then check if it was correct or too loose. Is there a better way to tell which is which? What would you do?
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