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MtlBiker

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About MtlBiker

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    Camping, sailing, motorcyles, bicycles, photography.

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Leather, Cordura, general industrial sewing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search for a particular thread

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  1. I would also suggest you get a machine with servo motor (absolutely!) and a speed reducer. Both those came included on my Techsew 2750 Pro, and they make a world of difference. With leather especially, it really helps to be able to stitch at very low speed when needed, and that's what the speed reducer does. And if you haven't heard it before, remember that there really is not ONE machine that will do everything for you. That's why so many of us have several machines. And I'm drooling now about one day getting a post bed machine. It never ends! A machine comparable to the 2750 seems like it might be a good first machine starting point for you. But again, if you can find a good local dealer, it would make a world of difference.
  2. I see you're in Canada (as I am)... My strongest suggestion is that before you try buying a machine from the States, you investigate Canadian dealers. Especially since you don't appear to have a lot of machine experience, a GOOD (and hopefully local) dealer would be extremely valuable. Are you near enough for a reasonable drive to a major city in Alberta? There MUST be dealers there. When you say 4-6oz range for the leather, you also need to factor in layers, as the backpacks and duffels you talk about surely have overlapping (maybe even triple thickness) areas. Combined heights of your pieces might possibly be close to 1/2" thick! I'm relatively inexperienced compared to others here, but based on what you've said so far, my suggestion would be that a cylinder arm machine would probably be more useful to you than a flatbed. Plus there are flatbed attachments available for many of the cylinder arm machines so you'd get the best of both worlds. The question then becomes which strength of machine would be most appropriate. There's an outstanding thread here (I'll try to find it) about what kind of machine you need for sewing leather. Of course your budget will also be a factor... I'm assuming you are considering buying a new machine instead of used?
  3. You're "inept" (means not good) at normal sewing? Meaning what? What is "normal sewing"? Normal sewing with a machine? Hand stitching? As @Samalan said, it really would help others help you if we knew what you were trying to sew. When I machine stitch leather, I don't crease first. But I do when hand stitching. Is there a particular machine (or type) you're considering? Can you visit a dealer with samples of what you're wanting to sew to see what the different machines can do?
  4. Your paragraph text on the first image isn't straight. Kinda sloppy.
  5. I'm probably not the best to try answering your question, but I've tried to sew thin leather with a domestic machine and failed because the leather is rather uh, sticky, and without a walking foot and needle feed (meaning compound feed) it just didn't work out. And for the $200 budget, you mentioned, it's very unlikely you would find something that meets your needs. But... Have you read about the thing @RockyAussie (do a search under his name) designed for those heavy duty machines to let them much more easily handle thinner assemblies and threads? Might be the solution you're looking for. I don't have time right now to search for the right post by him, but if you can't find it and nobody else jumps in, I'll try to find a link for you tomorrow. Hope this leads to a workable solution for you.
  6. @TomE and @toxo - I have been heavily into photography for over the last 60 years. I do a lot less photography these days, but used to have a full studio set up in our art gallery. I have done sports, nature, portraits and glamour/artistic nudes and have been published several times. Generally only serious photographers are so concerned with color accuracy and for most web site postings and display, a little variance doesn't really matter. Especially since the people viewing those images only rarely themselves have color calibrated systems. I did my own printing, but often advised other photographers how best to send an image to a service bureau for printing. Unless the photographer has a properly color calibrated system, there's no way that a service bureau (properly calibrated) would see what the photographer expected them to see. Often the photographer (without a calibrated system) would spend a lot of time editing and getting a photo exactly to his/her liking, only to find that when printed by a service bureau it wasn't the same. Every step along the way needed to be calibrated. Probably nobody here is interested in seeing a small sample of my photography, but just in case, here is a NSFW link to some of my Artistic Nudes.
  7. Tom, the issue that you have NOT assigned a color profile to your image. That means it'll never appear in a consistent manner to a viewer. The very best thing you could do is to assign the sRGB color space to your image(s) if you are intending them to be viewed on the web. Even then, if the user has an uncalibrated monitor they may not see what you intended them to see. The AdobeRGB color space is what I usually work in as it has a larger color gamut than the others, but when I save images for a specific purpose I assign the appropriate color space to them. You're obviously particular about how the images appear, so as I said, the best solution is to assign the sRGB color space to them. (I downloaded your image and checked it... no managed color space.) You're using PhotoShop you said... keep your main image in AdobeRGB, and if you're using Save For Web, make sure to assign sRGB to the smaller image you're using on the web. Hope this helps.
  8. Just want to point something out... I said that I started with my Janome HD3000, but that isn't 100% true. A few years earlier I'd bought a Brother computerized machine on a whim, and while I had great ideas about what I'd make, I actually never used it. It was only when Covid started and we had to start isolating that I started to sew. And it only took me about 2 weeks to realize that the computerized, mostly plastic frame machine, with all kinds of bells and whistles, wasn't really a solid machine at all. The HD3000 has a metal frame and is a MECHANICAL machine (not computerized) and is way stronger and more reliable than most of the computerized machines. And it was amazing how much it could sew compared to the computerized Brother. But the rage these days is getting a gazillion different stitches with a computerized machine and I'm suggesting that isn't the best route to go, Especially with the kinds of things you plan on sewing. I think you should give your choice of a domestic machine a little more consideration before making your choice. Good luck!
  9. Funny you said that... I too started with a Janome 3000HD and quickly found I needed a different machine (machineS) to sew the kinds of things I wanted to make. But unlike you, I recently started using the Janome again. Before COVID, I had never sewn anything and couldn't even sew a button onto my shirt. I started by making masks, moved to pet harnesses and leashes, and then to tote bags, wallets and purses, and even started hand-stitching leather. My reason for using my HD3000 again was that I needed new dress shirts, and decided that I'd try to make them myself. After all, now I had *some* sewing experience. Anyway, I finished my first men's dress shirt using a McCall pattern and I'm thrilled with the result. The 3000HD is really quite a good (mechanical) machine, as long as it's kept doing the tasks it was designed for. I just got some really find Egyptian shirt cotton fabric for my next shirts. I'm stoked! Oh another thing... you mentioned that you found the Janome difficult to thread. Are you SURE you are thinking of the Janome? In my experience threading it is a piece of cake, and it's much much easier to thread than any of my other machines and the needle threader works perfectly too.
  10. Sam, you've gotten some great advice from the members here, and the real challenge for you is availability due to your location. I'm jumping in only to say that the first two options you were given, in my opinion are not right for you, and they're way overpriced as well. I have something similar (more high end) to those two, a Sailrite LSZ-1, but use it in combination with other machines I have. I also have a Janome HD3000 (which can be gotten here for $600 Canadian, meaning about US$460!!!!) and the price you are being quoted is again quite crazy. I really do like my Janome, but the thickest thread it can use would be a v69, and the machine would be great for your linings and to learn with, but really not the machine for leatherwork. I guess there's no used market where you are?
  11. The martini suggestion was for YOU and not your sister in law! I may not have much more experience than you, but I've learned (after "blotching" some dye jobs) that your leather really needs to be dampened before you apply dye. I bought some Fiebings product (can't remember what it's called and I'm at work now) which I've used, but I also found that water works well. But to rescue your project, how about dampening the leather and re-applying more dye? That would probably even things out but at the cost of making it darker. Good luck!
  12. I too was going to suggest vodka, or my favorite, London Dry Gin. Preferably in a Martini. Have enough of those and you don't care if the dye job is blotchy.
  13. Just FWIW, I've been VERY disappointed with the last few Osborne tools I've purchased. No way near their reputed quality and it's been suggested here that in the last few years their stuff has been real crappy. I've had to return a round knife, edge creasers and lastly one of their cobbler's hammers. Crap. Not even close to their quality of a few years ago. I won't be buying Osborne products again.
  14. I'm Canadian... but I've never (and probably never will) been on Facebook. When you've got such a great forum as this one, who needs Facebook?
  15. @Uwe - Here's a link to the aluminum flatbed table attachment. Thanks very much for the screw (information). But gee, what a strange screw that is! I was hoping to get some kind of thumbscrew replacement for the slotted screw I got with the machine. Who the heck ever thought up the idea of using such a non standard screw. Would you suggest I retap the thread to standard M5? Cheers!
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