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MtlBiker

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About MtlBiker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    Camping, sailing, motorcyles, bicycles, photography.

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Leather, Cordura, general industrial sewing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search for a particular thread

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  1. I recently started using Affinity Designer (and Photo) on my iPad Pro and I find they seem to offer pretty much the same functionality as Illustrator and Photoshop. And the files work on either program. I'm doing a little pattern creating with Designer but haven't yet gotten heavily into it. I'm not quite sure what you are asking about subtracting the lines from the shape, but might it work for you to have the lines on a separate layer? You can hide/show layers at will, and also change their opacity. I hope this helps.
  2. Mark, I was just teasing you about the lack of thread! Meant it to (hopefully) get a laugh from you. Is that upholstery vinyl or leather you were testing on? The needle is going to leave holes in either, so you may as well have left the thread in place for your test. That way you'd see if the tensions are correct. I'm pretty much a beginner at sewing myself (only having started since Covid) but I'm having a ball (and making lots of mistakes) but one of the things that took me by surprise is that colored thread generally needs different tension adjustments than black thread. I've found that red, white and blue (which is what I use other than black) work well with the same tension adjustment while black needs different tension. So when you say your machine is already set up for v69 thread, keep that in mind. You know about the drop test for bobbin tension? While holding the bobbin thread in your fingers with the bobbin hanging down, very gently bounce the bobbin. If the thread comes out too easily and the bobbin drops, you need to increase the bobbin tension. If it doesn't come out easily enough, you need to loosen the tension. And with experience you'll learn what is right. I don't know if more experienced people do this, but I have one bobbin that I use only for my black thread (normally v92) and another that I use for white, red and blue. And changing from a color to black (or vice-versa) generally needs a top thread tension adjustment also. Cheers!
  3. Welcome! And that machine of yours really does sew slowly. But... (with you saying you're a beginner, etc.) uh, did you perhaps forget to put thread in the machine?
  4. I have one of those "large" magnetic edge guides and for me it doesn't work well with heavier assemblies... too easy to move it out of place while maneuvering 2 layers of 21 oz canvas plus 2 of 1000D Cordura. Maybe my 206RB-5 doesn't allow the magnet to hold as well as it might if the needle plate were larger. The rippled paint finish on the body is probably not allowing the best hold. Anyway, I was going by memory of the cost of the Sailrite Deluxe 5 1/2" Magnetic Sewing Guide... it's actually fairly reasonably priced at US$32. Of course with shipping and dollar exchange rate plus taxes, it costs us Canadians a lot more. But I just ordered one. I've been wanting one for awhile now.
  5. I bought one of those flip up adjustable edge guides online... I think it was from Amazon but it shipped from China. The description listed a bunch of machines it would work with, including the Consew 206RB (mine is a 206RB-5) and I was very disappointed to find that it did NOT in fact fit the machine. I have one of those guides on my Techsew 2750PRO and it's quite nice, but even though it came with the machine, it doesn't quite fit right as the laser light and wiring for it is a bit in the way. So what I use mostly is just the presser foot for 1/8" and 1/4" seams and a magnetic guide (Dritz) for larger seams. I'd like to buy/try the much longer magnetic guide that Sailrite sells, but the guide plus the shipping cost and dollar exchange rate makes the cost about $120 Canadian (yes, I'm in Canada). So I've got it on my wishlist, and will probably order one when/if I can add enough other items to my order to help spread out the (very high) shipping rates that Sailrite charges. Maybe once the border opens up again after Covid, I'll order one for US delivery and pick it up on one of my trips to the States. But who knows when that will be. SIGH
  6. Thank you Keith! There hadn't been any replies here to my post but you helped me figure this out by private email a month ago. Cheers!
  7. Interesting idea. Thank you. But as all my (meager) experience so far is with fabric and webbing, my idea for a small belt pouch was to stitch two pieces right sides together, leaving an opening, and then turn it right side out. I'm not sure if with cardboard inside I'll be able to do that. I want more stiffness yes, but not so much that I can't do this. I don't have a pattern to work from (just trial and error) but what I had in mind was a doubled back piece with belt loop on the outside back, a doubled front piece and a flap piece with a snap installed. Not too difficult using fabric, but I'm not sure if this would work with even thin leather. Learning experience... Here I come! Okay, I've got a lot more to learn... I'll have to research what bag stiffener is (thinking it's just a stiffer interfacing, such as Decovil Light) and I certainly don't know (yet) what bonded leather is. (BTW, how did that suede turn out?)
  8. Thanks very much! I'll give it a try then.
  9. I'm totally new to leather working, and relatively new to sewing in general, only having started since Covid. Anyway, I have some calf's skin (?) leather that's quite soft and thin. I also have salvaged some leather from leather coats that I bought at a thrift store. I want to start experimenting with it. Before going out and buying perhaps more appropriate leather. If I want to make a little belt pouch using the leather I have, is there a way to stiffen the leather? With fabric I'd just apply a fusible interfacing... Can the same be done with leather?
  10. I just bought some Nomex thread, believe it or not for making oven mitts. Anyway, American and Efird has a thread called ANESAFE (using Nomex) which is available in Tex 27 to Tex 90, in white and colors.
  11. Can you post a photo of the machine?
  12. I've only been sewing for a few months so obviously the stuff I don't know would fill a book but I'm really confused about the different thread size specs... For a little project I want to do, I need a thread that's pretty resistant to high heat... won't be flames, but high heat. I understand nylon and polyester wouldn't be good choices. So I've found a Canadian supplier who lists Nomex thread, but I don't understand the spec they quote: 30/3, with 3,000m per spool. I'm familiar with v69, 92 and 138. But what's 30/3? Is it comparable size/strength as v69, v92 or 138? Thanks for any help.
  13. Uwe, I respect your vastly greater experience and knowledge than mine, but I really wonder about what you said regarding that pin. You did say that there's wrong information being repeated all over the place and that's probably true. But as I said, it was the Consew dealer who showed me how to thread my machine and I would expect that he knows how. Plus I just checked a couple of Youtube videos about theading the 206RB and they also show and say to wrap the thread over that pin. Here's one of the videos. If you really think that shouldn't be done, I'll give it a test when I get home after work tonight. I'd just hate to have to readjust all the tensions again since I've got everything running so well now.
  14. Geez, so I've been doing it wrong ever since I bought my 206RB-5 a few months ago. And it was the DEALER (Eastern Canada distributor for Consew) who actually showed me and told me that the thread needed to go around that little pin. And as far as I can tell, it's been working just fine that way. (I had absolutely no experience with industrial machines at that point, nor really much general sewing experience.) I guess I'll have to try without wrapping the thread around that pin.
  15. Hi, and welcome. I'm just a beginner myself so I may be totally off-base with my comment but on the photo that shows how you've threaded the machine it does look wrong. But it is a little hard to see the exact detail from your photo (could have been a larger photo)... When you bring the thread to the upper tension disc, it looks like you have the thread arriving at the 2 o'clock position (which is right) an then going counter clockwise and coming out at about the 7 o'clock position and going to t he second tensioner. If I'm seeing that right, then you do not have it threaded correctly. At the top tension disc the thread has to enter like you are doing and going counter-clockwise, all the way to about the 4 o'clock position and around the little pin that's there. And from that point, down to the second tensioner entering clockwise at about (guessing) the 4 o'clock position. From there up around to the spring and most probably you'd have to give a tug there to get the thread to pop over to the inside of that. I hope this is of help.
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