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About MtlBiker

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  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    Camping, sailing, motorcyles, bicycles, photography.

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  • Interested in learning about
    Leather, Cordura, general industrial sewing
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  1. Thank you! I'd watched the video twice and still didn't understand what the game changing "it" was. Maybe I'm the only newbie here who didn't catch on right away, but it would have been helpful if he (or someone) had first outlined the problem/issue and then explained the solution. This newbie thanks you.
  2. Well, I look forward to your clarification. I'm just not sure what "IT" is. What have you done/changed to make it a game changer?
  3. Rocky, please forgive a question from a relative newbie... What exactly are you showing that you're calling a "game changer"?
  4. Very nice! They look great. I'm doing a lot of work with waxed canvas but haven't yet added leather to them. Are your bags lined? Are you using some kind of reinforcement behind the rivets? Are the straps only attached via the rivets or are they sewn also? Where did you get your waxed canvas? I've been using the "heavy waxed" canvas that Sailrite sells. Also some from BigDuckCanvas. I don't know if you've seen or heard of Adam Savage's EDC One and EDC Two bags? I've made them with waxed canvas with Cordura for the base. They look sort of like old fashioned doctor bags and almost as soon as I finish one and put it on display it's sold. I'm also making some women's purses with it. But I really like the looks of your bags.
  5. Geez, is there anything you DON'T know about sewing machines? Seriously, thanks for the explanation.
  6. Very nice! There's something very cool about using such modern technology (3D printer) to make accessories for such a classic, dare I say, "antique", machine. You're certainly very creative and skilled at making things. Never having seen one of those machines before, I might not appreciate how your thread stands improved the original. For someone like me (newbie) does that machine not have a bobbin like most machines? Does the bottom thread feed through the machine directly from one of your large spools? From the photos the thread looks very thick... what is it? And you're using the machine via the hand wheel without a motor, right? Does that not make it more challenging to hold your material assembly in place with one hand? You refer to photos 5 and 6, but there are only 4 photos in your post.
  7. Looks like you did a lovely job in cleaning up and adjusting that machine! What are your plans with the machine? Will you be keeping it for some specific task or selling it?
  8. This is very strange. I uploaded the video here directly... it wasn't a link. I've done this before (on this site) without problem. I don't know what the issue is... could it perhaps be a site issue rather than something with that video? In any case, I've now uploaded it to Smugmug and have posted a link in my last message. For anyone having trouble with the embedded video here, please try the link. As far as the stitch speed goes, my understanding is that with the Monster II wheel (the very big and heavy wheel that's optional) you'd get the slowest speed. Slower than with the wheel that comes with the WorkerB or the standard wheel. Since I have the Monster II, that's the only wheel I've tried it with. And I'm thrilled with the low speed performance. With the sewing I'm doing I am much more concerned with slow speed control than I am about top speed. I think my hand cranking days are over. But I'll be giving it a full workout over the coming weekend, and maybe evenings before if I have the chance.
  9. Very strange... I've uploaded video here before and there never was a problem. In any case, this was an upload directly here and not a link. I've now uploaded the video to SmugMug and will try to link it here. I wonder if the problem with this video is a site issue rather than a problem with the video. SHRUG Here's a link... Ultrafeed LSZ-1 w/WorkerB servo
  10. Anyone, does the video not work for you? I've had reports that it doesn't work. On my computer it works just fine. I just tried from a different machine and it looked like the video was frozen, but clicking on the play button a second time got it working again. Please let me know if you have any problems.
  11. My first industrial sewing machine was a Consew 206RB-5, about two years ago. I later added a Techsew 2750 Pro (cylinder arm) machine. But ever since I started sewing I've been drooling over the Ultrafeed LSZ-1. Not that I really needed such portability nor did I have a real need for a zig-zag stitch. I came close a couple of times to buying a cheap clone, and I'm really glad I didn't. About 6 months ago I finally splurged and bought the LSZ-1 Premium package. I later added their folding table. I must say that I really am extremely happy with that machine, even though I have two other more "industrial" machines. I find that with the Monster II handwheel, I can hand crank my stitches through almost anything, and as slow as I want/need to. I didn't really have a need for the zig-zag stitching but I could have never imagined how useful that would actually be. My sewing consists mostly of bags (totes, purses, even wallets) and there are a lot of zippers involved. Having the ability to set the needle position to left, center or right is incredibly useful! Just by changing the needle position I avoid having to switch to a different foot in all my cases (so far). I do have the full variety of feet Sailrite offers, but I've yet to have needed to change. Oh, one thing I did change early on, was the presser foot and feed dog which came with the machine. It was a sawtooth type and too aggressive for sewing leather without leaving marks. I changed to their "knurled" presser foot and feed dog set, and haven't had to change anything else. I only had/have two nits about the machine... First, the small domestic-size bobbin. I'm used to size "M" bobbins which hold a lot more thread. So I'm often running out of bobbin thread. The second nit was that with the clutch motor that's part of the machine, I wasn't able to get the really slow stitching that I sometimes needed. So I used the hand wheel. But the problem with doing that is sometimes it's hard to hold my thick assemblies in position with my left hand while turning the crank with my right. (Not to mention needing a third hand to hold my threads at the start. So about a month or so ago, Sailrite announced a new servo motor for the Ultrafeed machines. Called the WorkerB. And some "influencers" on YouTube got early test units to play with. Watching those videos and reading the reviews blew me away and I wanted a WorkerB! Luckily I found out that Sailrite was going to offer the WorkerB as an upgrade for existing Ultrafeed owners. And they just released that upgrade last week. Needless to say, I was one of the first in line to order it. I just installed it on my LSZ-1 with Monster II wheel. Piece of cake! I went slowly and carefully, but the job took no more than 20 minutes. Everything fit like a swiss watch. And I'm sure you know how terrific the videos are that Sailrite produces... the video on retrofitting the new motor was equally well done. Piece of cake! The new motor is more powerful than the original, plus it's supposed to have some kind of sensing feature that supplies more power (torque?) if it detects something thicker or harder to sew. Anyway, there's now an on/off switch also, which the original motor didn't have (I used to switch off my power bar). There is a speed control knob at the top which lets you set the maximum sewing speed. Meaning no matter if you press the foot pedal to the floor, it will only sew at the maximum set speed. It's amazing! So I made a short video to show how slowly the machine can stitch (with the Monster II wheel it can stitch slower than with any other wheel). In the video I have the speed control dial set to the minimum speed, and I start off just feathering the foot pedal (holding it in my hands). Stitch by stitch slow! And then when I fully depress the foot pedal it speeds up stitching to the maximum set by the speed control dial (set to minimum speed). I'm lucky that as a serious hobbyist I have three machines, but I'd say that if I could only have one machine, it would be the Ultrafeed LSZ-1 with WorkerB motor. My experience with Sailrite so far has been top notch. The service and support (and their videos!) are I believe the best in the industry. The Sailrite folks are a class act. E7E9E86D-AAC7-4A45-9ADD-BF597A6AD865.MOV
  12. Good luck! I'm looking forward to your report. I'd been thinking of trying some prewound bobbins, but not if I'm also going to have to change the spring on my bobbin case. If you hadn't reported this, I would have expected transparent interchangeability between prewound and self-wound bobbins.
  13. It sounds like you're not so much talking about thread diameter as the amount of thread left on the bobbin. Is that right? But if you really are talking about thread diameter, then yes, it does usually require tension to be reset if you change to a thinner or thicker thread. I've never used pre-wound bobbin thread either, so I'm following your "thread" with interest. Are the pre-wounds on a bobbin (surely they must be) that fits into your bobbin case, right? And if that's so, I can't see that a full bobbin or partially used would need different tension adjustment. If you wind your own bobbins, doesn't the thread tension remain the same as you use up the thread? I would be surprised if a prewound bobbin behaved differently.
  14. The thin leather bunches up in "that" cutter? Which cutter (and size) are you using? The worst thing I've ever had to cut was a very thin and extremely stretchy suede. The only thing that worked well was a really sharp blade on my rotary cutter with a straight edge to guide the cut. I had weights on the straight edge. A really sharp utility knife did NOT work for this because it would pull the fabric, thus stretching it. The rotary cutter worked perfectly. IF you used a rotary cutter for that thin leather and that caused the bunching up, I'd strongly suspect you had the blade tightened way too much. It does take a bit of practice (and restraint) not to tighten the screw too much. The blade needs to turn really easily, otherwise it will pull the fabric (like the utility knife).
  15. The cutters I have are all OLFA, and there are many different models, depending on how fancy you want to get and how the tool fits your hand. But I think the blades are pretty much interchangeable so I would suggest buying the brand and handle type that you like best (and can get at the best price). And as far as blades go, the name brand blades are all surprisingly expensive, and lately I've even been buying no name brand blades off Amazon. Much much less expensive and they seem to work just as well. They may not (not sure) last as long as the name brand ones, but gee, I can get 3 no name blades for every one Olfa blade. Plus they sharpen just as well. I have both 60mm and 45mm, but seem to use the 45mm much more.
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