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  1. Searching for buckles like the ones pictured. Specifically looking for 0.5" x 1.25" in brass, but other sizes as well. Abbey carries them, but their cost and shipping is extremely prohibitive. Weaver and Aime carry buckles that are supposed to be 1/2", but measure as 5/8" and are too long at 1 1/2". TIA
  2. Hello again from North Wales. We're in lock-down again and nobody can travel so I decided to make a travel bag. Obvious really. And it's not just any travel bag. Because I'm half salmon on my mother's side, I have to find a way to swim upstream so I decided to make a bag I couldn't buy hardware for: A Gladstone bag. Yes, yes, I know you can buy Gladstone frames commercially but they looked flimsy and cheap with that 'antique brass' finish that looks nothing at all like antique brass. I made the frame first, sourcing some 1/16th" x 1" brass angle and some 1/8" x 1/2" brass strip. The hinges were ready made 'desk hinges' from a restoration company and measured 1/2" x 3" when opened. They're also 1/8" thick (or 1/4" when closed.) The hinges and frame are rivetted with traditional cold rivets that you hammer the heck out of. Hard work but strong in the ridiculously over-engineered way I happen to like. The catches for the bag are modified 1" roller buckles: The rollers were removed, along with the sides of the buckles the tongues were attached to. The shafts the rollers were around were then wrapped in pig skin to make them a tight fit under the brass straps, giving them enough friction to only move when pushed./ The straps are fitted with Chicago screws with the screw component replaced wit M3 brass countersunk screws that fit flush on the under side pf the frame. The bag itself is English Bridle Hide. 2mm for the main panel and 1.5mm for the end panels because of the need to fold. The compartment is stiffened with 1.5mm carbon fibre plates on 5 sides (including the bottom) and lined with 1mm calf suede. The edges of the main panel (originally 52cm x 110cm) were rolled and the end panels' edges were folded in and sewn through the rolled edge. This was the fiddliest sewing job I've had to date. Working inside the bag half the time, trying to find a needle sized hole in black suede in the dark... I don't recommend it as a pastime. Frame and bag are joined with glue and 13 more Chicago screws on each side. Where the handles are also screwed onto the frame, there is a 1/8" x 1/2" carbon fibre strip on the inside to provide more rigidity. The handles are 1.5mm leather stitched around a 9.5mm cowhide core. The 9.5mm cowhide is sold here for the drive belts of very old lathes and industrial sewing machines. It makes a stiff, firm filler for wrapped handles. There are four rubber feet under the bag, designed for flight cases and fixed through the carbon and leather of the base with Chicago screws again. Mistakes / lessons learned. The frame is the same width as the end panels but should have been about 3/8" wider to account for the fact it's outside of the side panels and the end panels are inside them. The result is that when the hinges lock out, the folding gussets haven't fully opened and still lean into the opening a little. The tabs on the ends of the handles are too long. I feel it would be better aesthetically if they were about 3/4" shorter. I'm considering taking them off, cutting them down just above the rivet holes and reattaching them. Where the hinges are attached, there was only 8mm of brass under them to secure the bag to, hence the two small Chicago screws either end (and either side) of the main frame. These turned out to be inadequate to hold the leather to the frame at the ends. I had to make 1.5mm x 10mm x40mm carbon reinforcing plates, cut away the lining suede and glue and screw those plates in directly under the hinges to securely trap the bag leather. I hope that as the bag gets used the leather will soften and stretch a little with bending and the stress on the screws will diminish. Stay safe. Andrew W-R
  3. Hi guys, I have been a member of the group for a while and have admired everyone's work here, I am reluctant to show my own offerings but decided to take the plunge. I have been working for a couple of weeks on this English Style Briefcase, I live in the Philippines so sometimes products are difficult to get shipped here and things take longer waiting for accessories etc. The case is made of Veg tan leather with all the fittings being solid brass with a brass lock from Amiet, it has a key holder, address tag and strap with shoulder pad. The bag is 3 compartment with the first compartment having a passport/cellphone pocket and pen loops, 2nd compartment is a zipped laptop pocket and the third compartment is plain for pads, books etc. The gussets are in 3 pieces to give good fit and bend on the corners. Although I live in the Philippines and have done for 25 years, I am originally from England hence my natural preference for English style leather work. Stay safe everyone
  4. I'm about to finalise an alphabet stamp set order with Hex n Hit stamps and want to make sure they are suitable for use with my Kwikprint machine (I have a model #55). Having a little difficulty getting clarification from the stamp maker, probably due to language barrier. If anyone knows or has used these stamps, will be much appreciated if you can comment. Cheers,
  5. Guest

    About split rings

    Hello, I want to know more about brass split rings. Like what are the pros and cons compared to standard steel split rings. Why are they so expensive? And are the ones from China that are sold on ebay any good? thanks
  6. Looking for a full font set for my Kwikprint machine. Ideally 24pt in York or News Gothic. CAPS preferred but also interested in LC. Cheers,
  7. The following Webbing and Brass line 24 Snaps are for sale. Quantity and pricing are posted on the pictures. Please Note: you need to send a PM MESSAGE, leatherworker.net notifies us via email as we do NOT check the postings daily. 3" Wide natural Cotton Webbing, .125" thick Brass Line 24 Snaps Let us know what quantity you are wanting so we can let you know the cost with shipping. Thanks for looking
  8. I'm repairing/replacing a watch band for a family friend. I want to use the original hardware, but it's not in great shape. It's cheap brass-plated and it has some kind of ... gunk? ... on it from the old strap. I've tried a few home remedies for cleaning brass with only limited success. Should I try taking a wire brush to it? I don't want to wreck it, otherwise I'll have to buy a new buckle set, which means extra cost for the customer (and me). Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  9. I was moulding a leather for a saddle bags ( firs time), but it was to flat, so I didn't know what to do with this, and this happened A little dirty, cause of oiling and my little experience with painting that time. There is a place for a pocket knife and some hunting papers in a flap.
  10. I see a lot of leatherworkers using Japanese brass accessories, and really emphasizing that that is what they are using. What makes said hardware so superior and sought after? I came across Smoky Sumi's online store, and they have quite a selection of Japanese brass. Does anyone have any other sources? Thanks, Stephen
  11. I just wrapped up a gun show and had two people ask me, independently, for 1.75" belts. I agreed, thinking the larger brass keepers would be easy to find ... somewhere. I was wrong. Any idea where I can get larger brass belt keepers/loops? I could force the belts into the 1.5" keepers, but don't really want to. Something under $2 each would be nice too!
  12. Hello everyone ***re-posting this as i lost my pictures in the Photobucket ransom*** Here is a recent woman's bag I made using tumbled Horween Essex. The leather is about 6/7oz and slightly spongy. Its sewn at 6 spi (7 tpi) with fil au chinois linen thread; size 432 Fully lined with interior pocket. Thanks for looking
  13. I have a large collection of hardware I'm selling. The amount in the photo might be less than what I actually have- I noticed more pieces after I took the photos. I am NOT selling individual pieces. Each photo has the grouping of what I'm selling. Please don't ask for a selection of each group, I won't do it. I also have a ton of real snakeskin hides I'll be posting soon for sale! Email me- fastest way for a response- Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com
  14. I have a large collection of hardware I'm selling. The amount in the photo might be less than what I actually have- I noticed more pieces after I took the photos. I am NOT selling individual pieces. Each photo has the grouping of what I'm selling. Please don't ask to purchase a selection of each group! Email me for a quicker response- Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com I'm also selling tons of snakeskin hides soon!!!
  15. Hello, I am finally learning to sew a zipper into a case, a small dopp kit. I was wondering if there is any big difference between the aluminum zippers vs. brass? I like the aluminum color better, but are there any downsides in using them? To me aluminum seems like a soft metal so possibly it could fail much faster. Thanks!
  16. I am a huge fan of buckle guy, but I am looking for some more suppliers that offer similar quality/style without minimums. I am specifically looking for some sleek/minimal looking solid brass center bar buckles. It would also need to be a situation where I could continue to buy stock in the future, so I don't think anything on eBay or amazon would be a good choice (unless you know more than I do). Ive checked out buckleguy, OTB, leatherguy, leathersmith, weaver, zack white, tandy, springfield, brettuns... Maybe overseas? I don't know. Thanks! Zayne
  17. Hello everyone Here is a recent woman's bag I made using tumbled Horween Essex. The leather is about 6/7oz and slightly spongy. Its sewn at 6 spi (7 tpi) with fil au chinois linen thread; size 432 Fully lined with interior pocket. And a shot of the hide Thanks for looking
  18. Anybody know where to buy solid brass hardware (in the U.S.) with finish like this (not antique)? O-, D- rings, swivels, etc. I'm checked out Weaver, Tandy, and Buckle Guy, but i'm especially drawn to those flat ones, look really high end to me. thanks!
  19. Hi there guys, I am finding it tricky to locate one of these without the teeth and with a smaller hole so I am having this cast in brass or bronze. I know I can fill in the teeth but since id like a smaller hole as well I thought I would try it. I will also have the hole made only just large enough for the largest needle I use (140/22) to pass through. Does anyone foresee any issues with this .? thnx guys.
  20. Hello; We just purchased a building which used to be the home of a leather working company. They produced everything from halters (horses & cows) to dog leashes. We purchased the building and contents because the family did not want to spend the time to sort all of this out. We are now in the position of trying to find homes for everything. There are over 900 halters, there is all sorts of equipment and tons (literally tons) of hardware in this building. He bought his hardware by the pallet and most is North & Judd. There is a 55 gallon container of a tanning compound he had custom made for his business and a dipping tank, I can not even tell you everything that is here because not being in the business I would do it a dis-service, so I have attached some links to pages of pictures we have so far. If anyone is interested in, please let us know and let's see if we can work it out. There is also a cart of 1/8" Leather shoulders here which we have sold a few and were told they were excellent by the fella who purchased them. He made gun holsters out of Texas. Here are the links: https://app.box.com/s/wl7mlcqjr9wsvnsp9lxavw1rocncl5df https://app.box.com/s/2fpit4r5yrx4xzn5qmnv https://app.box.com/s/cevypyk34jn8gewm1t8c https://app.box.com/s/iw1ya8rpyr68kgyzh1qv Let me know if you have any question and I will do my best to answer them or take additional photos if needed. Thank you.
  21. I have been lurking on this site for a while so i thought i would post something. I have been leather crafting for around a year now in a hobby capacity. This is a belt i made for a friend of mine.
  22. Greetings all. We just opened a store where we sell our leathercrafts and silver jewelry. During creations of leather products, one tend to look for ideas and inspiration, and i have stumbled upon a problem. On these pictures you will see examples of brass plates ( i think ) that are engraved or etched and placed on the leather or plate. These are more or less impossible to find, but i know i have seen them on sale somewhere some time back. Does anyone have any good tips on where to get a hold of such items and perhaps that also have links? Best regards Johan
  23. From the album: My Creations

    Rough finished 1/2" hat band with brass buckle. Hand tooled rope design with angled tip and matching carved keeper. Black dyed with mahogany antiquing, finished with beeswax.
  24. So I've been on a quest to use materials and components made in the USA for my projects. It's a point of pride for me, and also a selling point when talking to people about my items. I've been fairly happy with Hermann Oak veg tan, and I've been very happy with Maine Thread's polycord, so those areas are sorted. Finding quality metal hardware has been a real pain, however. I have a Gold Star press, so I wanted snaps and rivets that fit my existing dies. I have a strong dislike for plated steel, as a lot of my things go outside and will eventually rust here in perpetually soggy Western Oregon. I finally found Dot Fasteners and Rome Fastener Sales. Dot never got back to me regarding samples or country of origin. I called Rome and talked to Georgia, who sent me sample snaps and rapid rivet samples almost immediately. No charge for a handful of each to check on my press. So far so good! The samples appeared to be high quality and did indeed work with my dies, although I had to slightly file down the ligne 20 snap socket die. Here's where things got strange/frustrating. I emailed the sales email address asking for a quote (there are NO prices anywhere on their website) and got no response. I emailed Georgia, copying sales, asking the same info and got no response. About a month later I called back and was transferred to Robert who apologized and took down all the part numbers and my email to send me a quote. I got nothing. A few weeks later I called again and got Francine, who again took the part numbers and promised to email or call that day or the next with the quote. She called me back a couple hours later with a detailed quote for all the items, which was great. They have a $125 minimum on the full order, no minimums on individual items, and I should email my order with part numbers and quantities to Robert, which I did. I got no response or confirmation and had about totally given up on them, but about a week later Francine called to get my payment info (credit card) and said my order was shipping. I told my wife, "I've never had to work so hard to give a company my money!" Several days later my order arrived (complete and correct, you can bet I checked it...) and I'm pretty pleased with the quality. I ordered ligne 20 & 24 snaps, some small rapid rivets, and some snap hooks all in both solid brass and nickel over brass. Ligne 20 brass and nickel over brass. Ligne 24 brass and nickel over brass. As for a recommendation, I don't quite know what to say. So, here are the bullet points for you to decide if you want to try them... Service: Obviously getting pricing and ordering is not as easy as it should be. I don't know if my experience was standard, or if I just had some especially bad luck. They were also out of stock on several less common items (nothing that was critical for me to get) and, again, I don't know if that's a normal thing. Quality: Good, but also a couple of odd inconsistencies. The nickel L20 sockets are stamped "ROME * USA", while the brass ones are stamped "ROME * MILFORD". The nickel L20 eyelets are stamped "ROME * USA" very clearly, while the brass ones are stamped "ROME * ROME" very lightly. I like having them marked, but it's odd that they don't all match. The L24 parts have no markings. The brass parts all appear to have a clear coat protectant on them, which only time will tell if it holds up. The brass is not polished looking, like a plated finish would be. That's fine with me, but some might object. Selection: Very good. Lots of variations on snap cap or eyelet lengths, lots of rivet cap sizes and post lengths. Really more combinations that I think you can find anywhere else I've seen. They also have a lot of base metal and finishes available. I wonder how hard it would be to order more exotic combinations, given my difficulty in placing a very standard order. Price: Not bad. More than crappy Chinese steel, certainly, but not terrible. Solid brass small rapid rivets are about $0.25 each. Solid brass L20 snaps are roughly $.29 each. They do charge a few cents more for the nickel plated brass, and I imagine other metals/finishes are priced accordingly. They do offer brass or nickel plated steel for a fair bit less, although I didn't get prices. Again, not exactly cheap, but I think fair for quality brass made in the US of A. Long review, but I know others are interested in finding quality and/or domestic suppliers. I'll definitely give Rome my business when I'm due for my next resupply and hope that the service issues were an anomaly.
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