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garypl

Contributing Member
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About garypl

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 12/28/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Loganville, GA USA
  • Interests
    Shooting/reloading, woodworking, 3D printing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Shooting bags and accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    Holster making, carving leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search on making shotgun shell pouch

Recent Profile Visitors

7,001 profile views
  1. I have a couple of knives from Terry Moore in Vernon, Tx - you can contact him via Facebook.
  2. Very nice Cindy! That will make a nice cover for something!
  3. Sounds like a similar issue although I can’t remember if I ever dropped the case. I’ll check for roundness of the case and report what I find!
  4. I have a 206RB that has always sewn nicely, then suddenly the tension on the bobbin thread became extremely tight. I took the bobbin case out and the thread would pull out easily, but as soon as I put it back in the machine the tension was tight. Looked for possible causes and could not find anything out of adjustment. Finally bought a new bobbin case and put it in with the same bobbin and thread and it works great again. When I have time I will compare the two bobbin cases to determine what is different between them. By the way, it is always very difficult to insert the bobbin case back into the machine. Without a bobbin loaded it slips in easily, but appears that the bobbin is hitting something when inserting the bobbin case assembly and I always have to wiggle the case and the handwheel and finally it snaps in. Is this typical for a 206RB machine?
  5. I would trim the pockets a bit more under the tabs - looks like it might only be @1/4" from edge of pocket to the edge of the wallet - not much room to glue the next pocket. I usually make the tabs at the top of each pocket @1/2" from the edge of the tab to the start of the pocket body - gives you plenty of gluing area for each tab. Does this make sense?
  6. I don’t need any lace, but I’m going to make some just because it’s such a cool process!
  7. I notice in the winter when my basement is colder, my bottle of NFO develops whitish particles that settle to the bottom. I put the bottle in my double boiler and heat it up until it turns clear again and it’s good to use again. Doesn’t take long and you don’t need high heat.
  8. Good points made and I have since started writing clearly on my patterns what they are and which side of the leather they need to be transferred to!
  9. I like the way you made this sheath! I would have tested some good edge paint on some scrap and worked it a bit to see how well it stood up to repeated bending. I think edge paint should work on this type leather as I have used it on a few soft leather projects like wallets and eyeglass cases and it has not cracked or rubbed off yet. Gary
  10. Fiskars from Hobby Lobby https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Sewing-Quilting-Notions/Cutting-Tools-Mats/Fiskars-Precision-Point-Scissors/p/44793
  11. Chris, the floor finish is a glossy finish. Looks like Resolene - they are acrylic finishes. Gary
  12. I use Pledge or Mop N Glo floor finish - both cut 50/50 with distilled water. I either spray on using a cheap airbrush from Harbor Freight or I wipe it on with a foam makeup sponge. The airbrush is a great way to apply dye or finishes as long as you thin them properly. I like using the airbrush to apply finish after painting or antiquing leather so I don't pull the colors from the leather. You can use an airbrush to easily create a sunburst effect on leather and it puts dye on nice and evenly.
  13. Nice belt - looks like the loops are too tightly spaced - this causes the belt to curl up like yours. Space the loops slightly farther apart and next one should be fine!
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