AzShooter

Thanks Dwight. I copied an old friend and holster maker, Ernie Hill for the design. I too use a Red Dot sight on it occasionally which is another reason for it to be cut down so much.

I'm guessing, but it feels a lot like my .5 mm pig skin. The pig skin is very stiff but makes a good wallet, I've tried it. I don't like the looks of the color I have so I want to cover it up if I were to use it on the outside. There is enough skin on the Python that the top and bottom scales are not going to be used. The rest seems pretty solid.

I've made a few wallets and now want to make one out of Python. I was able to find a meter that looks pretty good. My question is: do I glue the skin to a thin piece of leather or other skin or do I just make the top piece with the Python?

It's difficult to find a decent holster for my Volquartsen Black Mamba. The biggest problem is that I have a Striplin Thumb Rest on the left side that sticks out about an inch so any holster found needs to be modified. I decided to build this one myself. Nice and stiff so the gun can not fall out but easy to draw. It's 10 ounce leather with a 5 ounce liner dyed Tan. The gun is at about a 10 degree rack which I find perfect for my carry guns.

Very nice job. I can't wait to see what your holsters will look like after a few more practice pieces.

Excellent job. Molding and stitching are top notch.

Awesome work. Belt and holster are a perfect match.

Beautiful design and it looks fantastic.

When I do it with that thick of a holster I lay out my pattern and mark where I start and stop with my stitching. I then transfer that to the holster and use my chisel to go through the first layer. I then take the pattern and do the same for the welt and then the other side of the holster. Your holes will line up nicely. On a number of my competition holsters I use 7-8 ounce leather with a lining of the same stuff. They are thick and my technique has worked for me for many years. I think if you give it a try you will like the outcome.

Chuck, Dwight and Lobo: Thanks for your help and reviews. I'm now making an IWB holster for the same gun. I'm going to modify this design and add two straps to the side, so it will be wider. Next will be one with a steel belt loop. I'm trying to figure out what size leather I need to attach to the holster where it isn't too thick. I'm thinking of 7 ounce for the holster and 4 for the spring hook. I'm getting more interests from the guys I shoot with. In our sport not many use leather holsters these days, but a few guys just like leather than God.

Here's the back side. I made one stitch mistake on the belt loop. Didn't catch it until after the photo. I see our points. I used a steel bar for the sight track but I guess it needs to be bigger. I'll try stitching closer on the next one.

This is for my new Walther P22. I didn't line it because I wanted it light. I used a vacuum bag to mold it. First time doing that. Fits perfectly. I think I'll make another only this time lined. The stitching looks like it picked up the dye from the holster but it's actually the color of the thread. As always I appreciate all criticizing.

If anyone wants to gift away their Tandy Head Knife please keep me informed. I could always use another one. I watched a video from Weaver Leather Co about sharpening them. Following their lead I was able to get mine sharp and keep it that way. When cutting curves and angles there is nothing better than the Head Knife.

I finally picked up a blue gun to help me get this holster out. It sure makes things easier. The customer wanted a simple design and in black. It took a week to get the blue gun but I think it was well worth it. I probably need to work harder on molding. I used 2 layers of 7-8 ounce leather and I think I'm making them too thick. I got some impressions but not what I was going for. The gun fits real well, is held secure, but jumps out when pulled. All criticisms are welcome.

I had a customer ask for a black holster for their Walther PPQ 22. I just ran out of USMC Black so I made another trip to my local Tandy. I figured all I wanted was the dye but no... Walking in the door they had a sale on 1/2 shoulders for $39 and $49. The salesman recommended 10 ounce for the king of lined holsters I make so I thought I'd give it a try. That plus a 4 - 5 ounce liner should work perfectly. I'm not worried about molding the holster because my design will have an open front and a tension screw to keep the gun in place. I also picked up another shoulder in 4 - 5 for the same project. That and a new utility knife and I'm out the door for just over $100. Happens every time I go in there. I like the place because the salesman is very good and so is the manager. I finished the cutting and dying he customer's holster today. Tomorrow I'll stitch it and bevel the edges for a coat of black edge coat. One thing I hate about black dye is that it bleeds until I coat it with Resolene. I may do that before stitching so I don't get the dye all over my hands. This one I made with 2 layers of 4 - 5 and will mold it with a blue gun I picked up. A few more blue guns and I'll be all set. At $50 each, I add a decent amount to my charging price.