Double Daddy

Sharp looking holster, both in design and color choices (dye & thread). I can absolutely see it only getting better looking as it "ages in"...such is the beauty of leather. Thanks for sharing!

I use Denatured Alcohol for when I need to reduce my dyes...and you ain't kiddin' either about making sure the lid is screwed on tight before mixing. I keep clear graduated measuring cups on hand just for this (one could probably get them on line but I have a bunch left over from my days of doing tub/tile refinishing)...pour what's required of each component into clean pickle/olive/mason jars, seal it up tight, swirl it around first...then go to shaking. I label and keep the reduced mixtures on hand either for dipping or for wide-area dye work via pieces of shearing or airbrush.

Doc - See the last post in this thread - To the OP - you can use the heat emitting lamps, as Doc pointed out...they work great (I built a drying/"hot" box in the attached thread). A person could make their cabinet's workings as simple or complex as their mechanical aptitude allows. It's the temperature that you are after. Good luck!

Several cutting tools stay on my bench. First, your historically (and not crazy expensive) handy utility knife like Mr. Dwight illustrated above (it gets used for long edge work, general cutting, etc). Next, I have a strap cutter for belts and any straps I might need AFTER I get a straight edge established with the piece of aluminum and aforementioned utility knife (hide is clamped to the work bench under the aluminum). Finally, I keep a large handle Xacto knife with #2 "pointy" blades (also not bad pricey when you get 'em on Amazon, etc) for "fine" corner work...I usually hold it upside down/sharp edge up (Sam Andrews style...look up his videos on YouTube for more details on this method). Been cutting leather this way for a number of years now and see no reason to change canoes...I'm not one for fixin' things that ain't broken. Besides, those round knives make me a bit anxious as well.

I'm like Dwight...Wellwood RED CAN (WRC)...the smelly stuff. Dating back to my years of working in cabinet shops, using it with laminate tops and wood veneer, I have lots of experience with it and very satisfied with the results. When we started this leather venture and found that most crafters here use it (or something very similar, chemically speaking), I found no need to "fix what wasn't broken", to use the old term. The plus side is that I can get it at my local Ace, Lowes or Home Depot in quarts & gallons. I have experimented with Titebond III and Gorilla Brand Wood Glue (not their original glue that requires dampening the surface and clamping for 1-2hrs)...results were pretty decent but definitely NOT as convenient as WRC. Like others on here I suspect, I've also developed the habit of keeping my jelly, pickle & olive jars...they are great for these kind of uses (glues, custom stain batches, etc). DD

Good choice for material on the belt clip...metal, not the plastic "FOMI-style" things that absolutely WILL break at the most inopportune moment.

That will NOT buff out...and, per your description, you are not likely to "walk off" any whoopin' she's inclined to dish out...

Whoo-eee, Boy! I do like me some Schofield revolvers...and a brace of them, at that! Sure is a nice rig...heirloom work you've done there. I really like the color you picked and the border stamping....not "too fancy" and it compliments the shooting irons quite well. The money belt is a great design for this type of setup too...well executed! Thanks for sharing!

You won't regret it. I bought mine, a CB3200, from Cowboy Bob back in late '13...it paid for itself in no time, has never given me a moment's worth of trouble AND the learning curve was "flat" in large part thanks to this very forum. My singular regret was not going with its bigger brother (4500)...but...sewing machines can be addictions too...or so I've heard.

When I install a metal clip on a leather holster, I use the ones from HolsterSmith.com (they'll also hook you up with all the hardware needed...just tell them the thickness of leather you are working with). They look like the cheap ?FOMI? ones but they don't break...they allow you to take the rig on/off easily as necessary while holding securely to the gunbelt. I've made quite a few of these for folks and have never had complaints.

Ain't a single thing wrong with that...it's your "brand", as you put it. I'd run with it if I were you and not look back...

And that means...???? The same link you shared also shows this if you scroll on down...expired?

I couldn't find any links either...I did the same "due diligence" as you prior to even posting.

When I see this post, I can't help but remember all the times good ol' Lobo warned about the new/weekly graduates from the "holster design school"...wanting someone ELSE (who had already invested time & $$$ in the tools, material and skill-learning) to bring their latest/greatest creation to life...and when said "jeen-yus" concept doesn't pan out, who get's blamed? Same worded post...in three different sub-forums. Hmmm?

I dip dye (in similar fashion to Dwight's instructions above) or use shearing for larger leather pieces that won't fit in my containers (portfolio covers, etc). I used to "try" to use daubers for this kinda task but it always ended up "streaky" no matter how/what method or pattern I went about it...the larger shearing piece works better with my 50/50 dye/thinner mix and I get a more even soaking on those bigger cuts of leather. If I'm going to do a "soap-wash" finish on the leather, I'll use a lighter dye color first because that process always darkens it to nearly the final desired color (i.e. use a lighter brown dye if wanting walnut or dark brown...it will turn a single coat of saddle tan to an almost medium of you aren't careful). Of course, I finish up with a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound) after all has had time to dry.