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Double Daddy

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About Double Daddy

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  • Birthday 09/09/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    N.E. Georgia
  • Interests
    American political and social history, homesteading skills, technical crafts and trades, family genealogy.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gunleather & accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    Holster/Sheath related leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search

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  1. When I install a metal clip on a leather holster, I use the ones from HolsterSmith.com (they'll also hook you up with all the hardware needed...just tell them the thickness of leather you are working with). They look like the cheap ?FOMI? ones but they don't break...they allow you to take the rig on/off easily as necessary while holding securely to the gunbelt. I've made quite a few of these for folks and have never had complaints.
  2. Ain't a single thing wrong with that...it's your "brand", as you put it. I'd run with it if I were you and not look back...
  3. And that means...???? The same link you shared also shows this if you scroll on down...expired?
  4. I couldn't find any links either...I did the same "due diligence" as you prior to even posting.
  5. When I see this post, I can't help but remember all the times good ol' Lobo warned about the new/weekly graduates from the "holster design school"...wanting someone ELSE (who had already invested time & $$$ in the tools, material and skill-learning) to bring their latest/greatest creation to life...and when said "jeen-yus" concept doesn't pan out, who get's blamed? Same worded post...in three different sub-forums. Hmmm?
  6. I dip dye (in similar fashion to Dwight's instructions above) or use shearing for larger leather pieces that won't fit in my containers (portfolio covers, etc). I used to "try" to use daubers for this kinda task but it always ended up "streaky" no matter how/what method or pattern I went about it...the larger shearing piece works better with my 50/50 dye/thinner mix and I get a more even soaking on those bigger cuts of leather. If I'm going to do a "soap-wash" finish on the leather, I'll use a lighter dye color first because that process always darkens it to nearly the final desired color (i.e. use a lighter brown dye if wanting walnut or dark brown...it will turn a single coat of saddle tan to an almost medium of you aren't careful). Of course, I finish up with a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound) after all has had time to dry.
  7. Fine quality leather for a brace of equally fine lookin' revolvers. Excellent work!
  8. I looked thru the comments on this video...it appears to be a Joseph Dixon edge beveler (size 2 or 3). Sadly, that maker seems to be out of business now. Likely could find some on Ebay or another specialty tool collector elsewhere. Hope that helps...
  9. Sir...I can't/won't wade into the back & forth of these other fellas' technical conversation about this & that type laser (not that well versed in the matter quite frankly)...but...here's some work I had done up on my brother's AtomStack (it is listed as a "40watt"...not sure what that rates out to as far as output but it does what he and I need...woodworking for him and leather for myself). He purchased it as a "test tool/toy"...just to see if it was something that would be worth the time and effort...I also gave him some scrap leather pieces to play with from my inventory. Aside from his butcher blocks, charcuterie & cutting boards and other pieces going "under the light"...he practiced with the leather I gave him, then I turned him loose. First...I'm no photographer and my phone is old. Sorry for the pic quality. I started by drawing up a coaster pattern in CAD (the "camouflage stamp" took a little bit to duplicate but now I have it...subsequent coasters will see this image scaled down and re-arrayed so that there are more of them, smaller in size)...all that needs doing per order is changing the text for what the customer wants...there's plenty of room around the border for sewing to a backer material (cork, etc...I use an oil tanned leather that has a grippy texture on the bottom). We ran a "test" coaster first (second pic)...you can see that the border is a bit light on the RH side vs. the left. Once we got the settings dialed in, the little AtomStack even managed to cut out the (4) I sent the customer (farthest to the left in the third photo)...this was 5/6oz drum-dyed veg-tanned. The portfolio fronts and their initials also turned out pretty well...it's not stamping or carving AND the laser etching of leather STINKS to high-heaven (really need to get your exhaust worked out, even in a shop situation)...but...you can be doing other things in your shop while this is cooking. I believe Lil' Brother's AtomStack was in the $300-400 range...I've looked at them myself and they head upwards from there (up to around $16-1800 or so, maybe more for models with work area extensions and air-assist and other add-ons). Just my recent experience...
  10. Straight up handsome and high quality...great looking field gear, right there! That color especially (saddle tan-ish) with contrasting white stitching...always a winning combination, IMO. I agree completely about that wider shoulder strap...seems more comfortable and it looks like it would "mold/form" over time to fit the user (similar to a guitar strap).
  11. I have toyed with this idea for a while...not so much for gun leather items but more for accessories and knick-nack goods (coasters, valets, journals, etc). I live in a somewhat "tourist-y" area where these kind of things are popular. My full-time day job consists of mostly CAD work so the design technology isn't a big leap for me, learning curve-wise. My brother, a fairly talented woodworker, just added a laser engraver to his tool fleet for engraving his smaller items (cutting boards, charcuterie serving trays, game sets, etc)...we've been playing around with leather to see how it works and the results have been pleasing enough that I'm going to have him do some initialing for me on a couple of upcoming commissioned graduation gifts.
  12. That's an excellent holster pattern (very slender)...the stamping is a nice touch, as well...it all complements the lines of the firearm very well. I've long thought the Schofield was a classy looking weapon that stood out from its cartridge bearing contemporaries of that era...always end up with an "itch that I've never scratched" whenever I see pics such as these. Thanks for sharing your work!
  13. I'm with Lobo...excellent design, especially that "three-way" connection. Lots of thinking went into that rig, front & back side...great possibilities to be benefited from going forward. Thanks for sharing!
  14. I don't know how big they grow up there in Canada/"North of the Wall"...but...depending upon where you are down here in Georgia, USA (especially relative to your distance from the barn), flies get to be of a decent size/quantity. If'n you are outside trying to read a book on the porch, it could be like the Battle of Midway during the spring/summer, particularly if one's agrarian neighbor has spread "money" over his fields, etc. Having a swatter of substantial construction (double layered/cemented/sewn, hardwood handle glued & riveted, lots of holes for aerodynamics)...all of this gives the end user options for a finessed French-style "swat and sweep" or a more forceful "call Dexter!" bloody-SPLAT. This, of course, requires a certain amount of quick thinking and athleticism on the part of said user...but the option is available. It has also been reported back to me that such sturdy fabrication has rendered these flaps suitable as "spouse/offspring tamers" ...but that "flies in the face" of my intended/designed use for them and voids any warranty, expressed or implied. Thanks, dikman! How's that for a dissertation? The ones I have made for folks have lasted many "flaps"...no complaints yet
  15. One that subject, Dwight...and having a Joann's within travelin' distance myself...what glue/adhesive do you use when fabricating a new bag? Thanks!
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