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About jasonsmith

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  1. When I've dyed my leather black. I usually have to re-dye it the next day. As I notice usually after it drys, that the flesh side looks splotchy with light colored areas. My guess is the dye absorbs too far into the leather on the flesh side leaving the black looking thin.
  2. Have you noticed any difference compared to just putting on 2 coats of black?
  3. I've read of people dying leather blue or green and then black to get a deep dark black look. I figured I'd try it with the Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes. Just wondering after you dye it blue. How long do you wait till you dye it black? Just wait for a short while till the dye has soaked in and still wet? Or wait a day?
  4. Does it matter what grade steel wool you use? They have fine and coarse steel wool. Don't know if one is better than the other?
  5. Anyone know where to get Line 20 snaps with a short post? The ones from Tandy. I have to grind half the post off for 4/5 ounce leather.
  6. I've brushed the Pro Oil dye on the leather with a sponge brush and wool dauber. And have had no problems with removing the excess dye. Actually the Pro Oil hardly needs any rubbing compared to the regular Fiebing's dye and Angelus dyes. The cool thing about the Pro Oil is when you brush the dye on, you can see it absorb into the leather almost immediately. I put on two coats back to back as the dye absorbs into the leather so well with the Pro Oil. The Leather Sheen has a spray bottle and brush on. I may could try both. But last time I sprayed acrylic sealer with a small spray bottle, it didn't work out too well. The Leather Sheen is acrylic. So, I wonder what the difference is between the Fiebings Leather Sheen and Fiebings Resolene.
  7. One bad thing about the acrylic sealers is they are very shiny. I was thinking of trying Bag Kote, but if it doesn't seal well like you experienced with the "Tan Kote". Then I guess acrylic is the best option. The hard part is it is hard to get the acrylic to have a nice even finish. It seems like the Eco Flo sealers takes too long to dry. So, it leaves rings. So far, it seems the Angelus acrylic sealers tend to be more even. The Fiebing's Resolene is way too shiny to use.
  8. I'm going to let it sit for several hours before I put weight on it. Last time I dyed, I think I checked them 4+ hours later. And they were still very flexible from not being fully dried yet. Though, I may could have put too much water and/or dye on them.
  9. I dyed some large test pieces with Fiebings Pro Oil Black. And noticed it curled up after it had dried. What are you guys doing to keep the leather from curling up when it dries from dyeing? I was thinking of letting it sit for a few hours, then placing it inbetween two pieces of wood and let it finish drying. Not sure it that would work, but figured I could try it.
  10. What kind of deodorizer? Most of that stuff is in an aerosol type can. I did try one of those small water spray bottles, but that didn't work
  11. What kind of sponge are you using? You may want to try one of those sponge brushes from a store in the paint section. I know these type of finishes can streak easy if you keep messing with it once you have applied it. Once you put it on, you don't want to mess with it long as it dries quick.
  12. I'm going to dye my stuff with the wool daubers. I've done some test pieces and they came out fine with no streaks. I'm using the Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. How long do you wait inbetweeen coats? I wait around 10-15 minutes when it looks like most of the dye has been absorbed on top of the leather when I put on a 2nd coat.
  13. I've found the Preval sucks. I was expecting it to spray like spray paint. But it just shot it out in gobs. Since it didn't spray a nice thin even coat, you had to spray back over areas that didn't get dye and it ended up soaking the leather and it was dripping. So, you would be better off just rubbing it on instead of using the Preval.
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