Cumberland Highpower

I prefer Poly thread for most of the items we make with the Randalls, but use nylon when i want different colors. Both Nylon and Poly work fine. There's some kind of "myth" that you can't use nylon or poly, but that's just a myth.. I know an Amishman who has a harness shop and of 4 UL's that run 8hrs a day, they've never seen a spool of linen in the 40 years they've been in operation there. Now I've never run synthetics under 207 on a hook and awl, so something like 138 might be a different story? Nylon does have more stretch/elasticity than poly. Once you set your brakes/pullers or tension (depends on the machine) you're all set. Both work fine in Union Locks, Landis 16's, Champions, Randalls. Never seen a machine that can't run great with nylon/poly. To be honest, it's hard to get good linen thread anymore. I used to run linen on some things, but nowadays you can't really get good linen. Poor quality linen is a pain. Barbours was really good until it was gone. Hungarian linen was ok. Seems it may be unavailable? Have seen a little Chinese linen...Barf. I did see Somak in UK has some linen, but never looked to see if z twist was available.

They're excellent machines. My parents bought one at an auction 30 years ago for $125 and it was a real tank. They still use it for occasional projects. Easy to use, well made, precise. Only downside was the standard bobbin, but that's really a minor thing in this era. Make sure you have the smallest pulley on your motor. Also, I don't know the speed rating of your motor, 3450 vs 1725. They're all roughly interchangeable on the table. Needles should be 135x17 if I remember right. Yes of course it's good for leather and anything you can fit under the foot. Use 135x16 needles on leather. Size depends on thread you want to use, you can look online and find some data. 138 is the max thread.

LOL Well, I appreciate the tips though, glad you placed your initial reply. Things may yet come across! If I keep the replies to the post coming in, may generate more leads or a member may find one in a dusty box?

Shoepatcher It looks like you're on the right track there. I found KH makes a swing away bed version for the Adler 669 and Seiko LSC. The drop down guide is allot tougher...My Consew and Seiko have the mounting bolts for the drop down bracket in the front, like in the photo I posted. I contacted by phone and email every one of KGG's contacts, not a single reply or "getting back to you". I guess I'm on my own? Probably should just take a day and make my own.....Just hate to do it.

It was common to mix pitch/rosin with wax. Maybe the last batch of wax/pitch didn't mix well? I put allot of hours on Randalls, over past 20 years, I've not really used the bobbin wax pots except for linen. If you use Nylon/Poly you don't really need it, but I guess looks good where it's supposed to be. If you can find pre lubed thread you won't even need the top wax pot.

I feel like Weaver has or had had something like that

Interesting, fhanks for the lead. I'll have to see what Pfaff might have available. It's it's a pfaff guide I hope it's still something available. (Pfaff isn't what it used to be after the Chinese takeover). The photo was taken in Japan and the machine is a Seiko LSC-8.

Hello Ferg, I am afraid not really. I was looking for something a little more trimmed down like on the photo I posted. If I come across a need for a style like yours I'll look you up.

I looked at those a few times over the past 2 years... Decided in end to buy an ISM SV71 as a test bed for a Seiko I have. I think I'd prefer that route?

I would, but I think I could probably source 4-6 used 1341's for what I'd be into a 2341 for. Wouldn't mind having a 2341 though. I don't even really need a 1341, just with age I'm getting too lazy to change guides/jigs/binders. It's easier to just sit at whatever machine gets the work

I always had better luck getting good money on Ebay. Some will drive to pick up. Might get just as much out of a head only and you can ship that in a heavy box or wood crate. Be careful though, I sold an Adler on Ebay (167) and it had a heavy impact somewhere along the line, I suspect UPS dumped it from the truck.....Ended up ordering a new OEM part for the buyer.

I'd love to find a guide like this. Surely made in Japan? Either guide. The big swing away one on the arm as well.

Those were my thoughts KGG. I've compared Chinese clones of big Adlers and Juki's and they're all lacking compared to originals. If nothing else, it's a pride of ownership thing. I'd rather sit for hours on end in front of a quality machine built in Japam rather than a Chinese Junker with a Juki badge. Of course I know Juki probably sources some parts outside of Japan, it's the way of the world these days.

Hello, thinking to order one or 2 Juki Lu 1341's...I am curious if any of the late machines were made in China, or if they're all Japanese MFG?

You might be right. Every time I watch a manufacturing video on youtube shot in Japan, I see the Usual Seikos and Jukis with some high grade attachments that I don't see in my typical shopping haunts....Or AliBaba. American importers import what's cheap and makes the best return.....