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Cumberland Highpower

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  1. Nearly all of my dies are from International. Great prices and quick service. Quality is generally quite good. If you have a die that needs to be very precise though, go to Weaver or Texas. Weaver probably makes the most precise dies I've seen, but are usually priced 3x International Die. International makes good dies, but sometimes can be out of spec. Once they made one for me and refused to fix it as they said 1/8" out of spec was within their standards. I sent it to Weaver and they fixed it. I laughed a little when Weaver Refused to repaint it. Said no way they were putting their paint on an International Die International also sometimes does not make the slots they weld into the dies properly. I have 3 dies with pairs of slots in them and the openings on top are smaller than the cutting end. I have to drive the punchouts out from the top with a screwdriver after every cut. Sucks, but...well, that's 3 dies out of many. Yes I'll order many a more die from International. I am just letting you know what to occasionally expect. If you order 10 dies from international and 2 are out of spec, you still come out ahead because of the great price and quick turn around.
  2. That's somewhat different than what a HO employee told me once when I inquired. I was told the leather they sell as "holster" leather is tooling leather that has slightly less oil added. Otherwise identical. I use allot of HO leather here and have bought both for several years. I do find the "holster" leather to be a bit on the harder side in tooling and sewing, likely as they said, from less oil added after tanning. I am being very critical in comparison, It's not significantly different, but I can feel a little difference, I am surprised you don't?
  3. Perhaps you might want to give a little more thought into that. I've been working leather as a primary income for about 15 years. Like everyone else I started on a real budget ($200). I looked at a Boss back 20 years ago or so when they came out. They do work and are easy to use, although I did not find the stitch quality to be very acceptable though. The Cowboy Outlaw is probably as good or better than a Boss. Weaver Leather here in OH bought the Luberto Cub and they are sold competitively. I would go for the Cub as it's mostly made in USA rather than a made in PRC machine. Now, I'd have to say buying a machine with triple feed may or may not be advisable. If you work leather exclusively, a hook and awl machine is what you need. Absolutely beautiful stitch quality. Yes, old, hard to find, etc. Probably harder still to find in OZ. I have owned just about every machine sold here in the States (except a Pearson). Right now I have 10 hook and awl machines and exactly one threaded needle machine (205-64). At one time I had a 205-370 and a Luberto Classic (Basically a Pearson w/a rotary hook). The Luberto had a jump foot and needle feed, while the 205-370 was triple feed. I much preferred the Luberto machine and sold the Adler. You really don't need triple feed for leather...And sometimes all that "stuff" gets in the way as well as marking up the leather.
  4. It's not looking too bleak...Maybe put your stitcher on casters and roll it into the corner when you're not using it? Where do you Ozzies get good leather? Have any good tanneries around, or mostly imports?
  5. You should post a list of actual tools and machinery here. You've posted the price, but not the goods that equal it.
  6. You know, I have an old Osborne Newark draw gauge on my workbench that I use for one specific item. I keep it in an open top box, but have probably poked myself on that blade a dozen times when not actually cutting strips with it..... Many years ago before I had machines I would have a harness shop cut my leather, and they often cut the straps by hand rather than to change out blades on a strap cutter for a side. Occasionally I would find evidence of someone being cut on my leather....So it's not an unrealistic worry you have there. Those wooden strap cutters seem to be to be best for soft or thin leather. A draw or plough gauge is best for skirting/strap/ bridle.
  7. looks like they have one for $75 w/steel. Still high. Apparently they are popular. Some things I would pay the money for, especially quality tools I'd have to handle over and over and over.....For the next 20 years. I'd probably pony up for the Romanov tool. That 1/10 the cost tool referenced probably has 1/3 the build quality. I guess that's a good ratio? (China's Golden Rule?) Here's another on Etsy made in Russia that's $40 plus shipping:
  8. You're right on when it comes to adding brass....But you have to admit it seems to be the best build of the lot.
  9. There is an outfit in Russia that makes this tool. I'd say looking better than the original. (Certainly not "Ivan's Cheap Copy you reference?) Romanov Tools. Etsy I believe. When I first got into working leather I used a draw gauge. Tried one of these but found it bulky and harder to use ironically. Later discovered and bought a plow gauge. I found that to be a far superior tool to a draw gauge.
  10. Did you get your Singer at the Auction? I looked it over and watched it sell, mainly over curiosity. Looks like it went for a total of $1320 w/buyer's premium? Overall I think that was pretty reasonable for what looked like a good clean machine.
  11. I have no doubt you can do some good work on one. If you have a chance, post some photos of your stitching/work here. I've always preferred hook and awl machines in leather for the slight improvement in stitch quality. I find the Landis 1 just too slow for any kind of productivity, and the bed too flat for small objects to be easily manipulated. (Holsters, etc). I don't make tack, so I know surprisingly little there. Sometimes I find my Randalls frustratingly slow. I find those to be the easiest to use and make the best stitch of anything I have. anything with more than a foot of stitching in any run goes on my UL's....
  12. If you're looking for a decent machine and don't have one, buy the 97. it will probably not go high. 1k maybe. Looks like it's been used, threaded up, etc. looks clean from what I can tell. If it's in good shape, you'll never wear it out. (You sound like a hobby type user). Who cares about parts, in this case. There are some needles that can be used, if i remember either cut down or adjust the needle bar a bit. I believe the shuttle is the standard Singer 45k/Adler 105 type. Probably widely available. I doubt it's worn out as it sits... No way I'd buy a Landis 1 over a 97. I think the Landis 1 is pretty neat and is a great display piece.....But that's about it. Only collectors and Swartzentrubers buy those these days.
  13. I once had a pressed sheet steel pulley w/bolt in hub from a hay bailer on a perforating machine I modified. Probably a 24" dia pulley. I eventually took it off and added a speed reducer. I did it as I found it unhandy to grasp when I needed to turn here and there by hand. Still have another pressed steel pulley on a modified Champion stitcher. No push back really Toxo. Your only flaw seems to be that you don't realize you're more mechanically inclined than most that frequent here.
  14. I have done similar modifications, however it's not always so easy for common hobbyists to figure that out...Not many here can source a "250"mm pulley so easily, or machine out a hub, or measure/fit bores and bushings. What makes it a bit harder still for some, is that we're on an "imperial" system of measure. Pulleys here have bores in fractional inch sizes. A Chinese machine is probably a copy of an Adler, that's probably metric spec. Canuks probably have metric pulleys....Last time I was in Canada (some time ago) it was a mix of Imperial and Metric at the hardware store. Apparently, at some point in time (Chandler?) offered a nice oversize handwheel for the Adler 105/205 machines as an add on. There was a 105 in the for sale forum here last month that had one on it.
  15. The Ferdco machines I've seen were modified Adlers and Jukis. Seems like I saw one on a Clone of a Juki once as well. Why not just look for a 205 or a 441 manual online? That would cover the majority of what you're probably looking to know. They were pretty expensive machines at the time, and all could stitch some real thick leather. They don't seem to bring as much at auction, comparing to other similar class machines. I don't know why.
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