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Cumberland Highpower

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  1. You know, I've been running stitchers for almost 20 years now and I can't seem to wrap my head around a reverse....Even when I run something modern like and Adler 205 I never use it.I guess old habits die hard!
  2. Hmm... Well it's not all that uncommon for a threaded needle type machine to have an issue with the lock like that. In the past when I first started I had issues with Adler 205's and a Luberto Classic doing the same thing. The problem is that when you have a spring loaded tensioner (No brakes) and a threaded needle that's how it will be. You'll need to use a smaller thread. 277 and even 207 is too large for a machine stitched wallet in 3/4oz leather. go to a smaller thread, 138 for example with the matching needle. You'll have much better looking stitches. Don't try to exceed the design of your machine. What your using would be better suited to sewing a saddle or harness. I made a wallet for myself once of 3/4oz bridle and I stitched it on a Randall. (Hook and awl) in 277. I was able to hide the locks, but just barely. A hook and awl machine with brakes can be tuned just right to hide a lock in such large thread in such thin leather, but not a threaded needle machine with spring tensioners.... One small thing that might help out if you're dead set on using 277 and a large needle is to make sure your thread is lubed. Not many threads come pre-lubed. Having your tension set so low on the top is probably what is causing your loose thread on the underside.
  3. It's a leatherworking clicker now Actually I don't think it was a press of any kind prior. likely like the member above said possibly modified from shears. If it were a clicker or press, it would have had a substantial Table of some kind under the pad. It has what appear to be some bolt on angle iron pieces that look to not be part of the original design.
  4. They're pretty hard to find, I don't think they made too many. Did you happen to call Randall? They might have a used one they'd be willing to part with. Chinese make clones of the NSB as well. long before I bought my NSB I thought about buying a Chinese clone (lack of options). I'd consider that a last resort. Bluegrass made a power edger similar to the nsb as well, if you give them a call they might be able to fit you up with one. (Maybe lesser expense).
  5. Probably so. My original reply was mainly in regard to sewing machines. I guess hand stitching is another topic all together.
  6. I consider 277 to be acceptable, but you can say the "vast" majority of stitching done by hand today is done with oversize thread (346/415). I think it's largely due to a lack of leatherworking knowledge. In the past virtually all leatherworkers learned as aprentices or through a Guild of some sort, where they were taught by men who knew the trade proper.. If you look at professionally hand stitched goods from the days of linen, the vast majority of goods were stitched with a much finer thread and more stitches to the inch. 2-3-4 cord. When I see large thread and a low stich to the inch count on a hand make item, I think novice or hobbyist right away. I do a little hand stitching on a few specialty items and use 3 cord, maybe 4 and generally 8 stitches per inch, but on occasion I do stretch it to about 6.
  7. Wiz I get your point, but on the side, I can't say I've ever seen a need for ever sewing with 415 thread. The heaviest thread I've ever used is 277. I've acquired heavier threads with machines on occasion and it usually went in the trash.... Other than maybe some heaving slings or rigging for cargo, etc...I cant understand why anyone would buy a heavier thread?
  8. Well, I think there is a bit more to that....Its' not common to see heavy thread on a wallet because it's nearly impossible to hide the "lock" of the stitch in thin leather wallets. It "is" a little more possible to hide the lock if you use a hook and awl machine, but only just a little easier. I made a couple wallets for myself of thin leathers on a Randall and stitched with 277 poly. Why? It's what I had on the machine at the time. I'd say I was able to hide the lock pretty well in that thin leather.....But a thinner thread would have been better.
  9. It sounds like you have a pretty broad mix of goods to sew. I'd suggest maybe a Seiko cyl arm machine like a CW series. Likely cheaper than a Juki? Don't buy a 45K or a Chinese Clone...If you plan to try to sew everything, you'll need a unison feed machine. I'd be somewhat surprised to hear of handwelted shoes being made in Spain or your part of Europe....I can see shoes still being made that way in The Ukraine or Romania, Bulgaria, etc....$500 a month for a worker there makes it more feasable.
  10. Those 7 series machines are very powerful and can stitch some really heavy materials. I think, perhaps though, it's maybe or maybe not exactly what you were hoping to find? They can stitch heavier leather with a heavier cord, but they are not really well suited to general leatherwork. They're a little more suited to heavy strap work in nylon (such as sewing lifting slings or cargo nets) or other materials. Stitch quality is ok, but not really what I'd consider ideal for quality leather goods. I think the needles are class 7. 7x4, etc. If you sew heavy rigging it's probably up your alley. I can't remember on the outer presser feet as to adjustments though.
  11. yeah that was about my only real bad experience with them....To elaborate they ran on about how 1/8" was within the acceptable limits of a steel rule die and so on, etc. I think I paid around $100 for that particular die. About 4x5" with 2 large 2" slot tubes welded in. Weaver's repair (A cut, clamped in a vise pinch back shut and welded back closed) I think was around $75. Most dies I buy from them are less than $100 and I've bought maybe 140 or so dies from them over a few years, so a couple problem dies weren't so big a deal. Sounds like I may be luckier than most with dies, or perhaps I just know what shops to send what patterns to. I am also EXTREMELY careful with my patterns. Using hard card stock and extreme care in laying out and trimming curves, etc. Anything that has to match or mate up especially I take great care with and make notes pointing that fact out on the patterns.. I certainly don't want tolerances to stack up....I think that may be the crux of many that deal with International? There was a die maker there named Denny that was capable of making some excellent dies if you communicated to him exactly what you wanted. I don't know if he still works there or not? I am talking full height steel rule die stock here. Are you using full height dies or 3/4"?
  12. Ah, I also forgot to mention....The USPS is photographing all of the mail now. The letter you sent to your neighbor not only has to go through detectors, but now has to be photographed. (Another operation they can't do at your local PO). Somewhere in some dark electronic storage device is a picture of your letter addressed to Joe Smith on Apple Tree Lane, Somewhere. WA. Somehow I have a feeling our everyday life wont go back to how it was in 1921.....At least if I spent some time playing with my old rusty leather machinery I can delude myself on occasion into thinking it is 1921....
  13. Ok so it's an older post, but has been revived here. I think maybe you forgot the Anthrax scare we had when 'Lil Bush was in office? All the mail has to go to a central processing and through detectors. They don't have that kind of machinery at your local one employee Post Office.
  14. If your shuttlepoint is worn down you can build it back up a bit with some solder and reshape. Either Tin (lead free) or Silver Solder. Silver solder would take years to wear back down unless you use it daily. I've seen Campbell/Randall shuttles built up with it and they work fine.
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