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About mike02130

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  1. Save up your leather scraps for testing. Those machines get pretty damn hungry.
  2. I've never heard that one before except from the young kids that just started out, recently. It has its purposes such as for sheaths, holsters and the like. It's a bit thick for more refined work. Vinymo and Meisi Xiange are pretty much the standard for higher-end work.
  3. It's called a "filleteuse". It will put a decorative crease and is also used for smoothing edge paint. It will not burnish chrome tan leather, you'll need to use edge paint to finish the edge.It will not make a creased fold in leather. Some popular tips are, FN2 for creasing and SO5 for smoothing edge paint. I recommend Uniter's edge paint.
  4. Check out https://campbell-randall.com/product/fav-av1-av2-skiving-machines What did you pay for it? It's a good Italian machine, just looks like it needs cleaning, oiling and greasing. All the brands are basically the same. Have fun.
  5. I don't think you need to go so fancy for the work you want to do. You'll be using softer leather which is turnable and "round dent" irons are what are generally used. I suggest Wuta irons. They're inexpensive, sharp, and the teeth are replaceable. The smaller the size, the tighter the seam. https://www.amazon.com/WUTA-Removable-Stitching-Professional-Generation/dp/B0B4C35HWD/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NZ629BROW6HC&keywords=wuta%2Bstitching%2Bchisel&qid=1703644653&sprefix=wuta%2B%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-2&th=1
  6. Your stitch-line holes look wavy and the thread looks rather large. Look at the next two holes from the left of the stitching--they're higher then they go back down. I stitch zippers the same way.
  7. Do not buy a knife from Aliexpress!!!! Look at the Nippy site and they will show you the counterfeits compared to the real deal. I bought a rubber feed wheel from Amazon for 8 bucks and a German knife from Campbell Hausfeld in the USA. The knife is a harder steel and keeps an edge longer. I use machine mainly for thinner leathers for wallet making.
  8. Xylene is the stuff--so I've heard. I've tried paint thinner and acetone and they don't work. Everytime I go to a paint or hardware store, I forget to look for it.
  9. How about just making one or two by hand with the tools you have and see how that goes, then you'll be better able to figure out a price. If the guy's in no hurry then perhaps they can be spread out over time? Keep in mind that if each one is different then you'll spend a lot of time making patterns.
  10. People say, use sharp tools and resharpen when you're done. It dulls the hell out of blades, awls and stitching irons.
  11. I don't know. You could just use a single punch. Use a wing divider set at half the width of the strap and mark your holes. Better yet, make a template out of some card stock.
  12. https://www.artisanleathersupply.com/collections/all-tools-1/products/watch-strap-punch Veg tan leather for padding. You can shape it how you want.
  13. As far as hole size, I've never experimented so I won't bet big money on it but I believe they're the same. But that may be the case with thicker leathers(?). The newer irons are hybrids and thin. No bigger than the awl you would use with the Blanchard's. Keep in mind, the Blanchard's are for pricking only, the euros may be used for pricking and going all the way through. Yes, the 3.85s will be good for that size. If you had 4mm ones, it makes it easier to draw patterns by dividing or multiplying distances by a whole number rather than 3.85.
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