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Found 13 results

  1. Never used Buckleguy edge paint roller! This aluminum edge paint roller is a must have for any serious leather enthusiast. With two spring loaded screws you are able to adjust the pressure of the plastic flap on the knurled roller to increase or decrease the amount of edge paint that is applied to the roller and thus the edge of the leather. This can hold ~ 1oz
  2. I think I did a tutorial like this a couple of years ago, but I've learned a lot since then. There are no correct way to paint edges, but there are some DON'TS. What you shouldn't do 1. Burnish edges with Tokonole or similar agents before painting. You can dry burnish before paint but you have to sand before applying paint. 2. Make too large bevels on really tight folds (Your paint will stretch until it cracks) 3. Paint a new layer on a surface that's not flat (Except the first layer) TOOLS/MATERIALS 1. Edge paint: This is Fenice, good alternatives are Uniters, Giardini, Stahl, Vernis 600, Beraud CT. Especially Uniters seems very popular, but I stay with Fenice since I'm used to this paint, and I get good results. 2. Edge beveler: This is a Kyoshin Elle size 0. 3. Creaser: This is a Fileteuse from Regad, and a FN2 iron for creasing, and S05H for heating/smoothing edges, and melting paraffin. A Fileteuse is a big investment and manual alternatives (Heat over alcohol lamp) like Wuta works really good for both creasing and smoothing edges. If you don't have anything of this, you can skip this step and use friction with a heavy cloth after the first layer of paint. 4. Paraffin wax: You can use either paraffin or beeswax. 5. Sandpaper 400: This is wet and dry from Mirka. (Glued to a piece of rubber mat) 6. Sandpaper 800: This is wet and dry from Mirka. (You can go to a higher grit if you want) 7. Burnishing cloth: (Clean) 8. Burnishing cloth: (Paraffin/Beeswax) 9. Awl: For applying edge paint. Some use edge rollers or brushes, but this is my preferred method. (10. Crepe Rubber optional:) For cleaning the edge transition if needed. STEPS FOR PAINTING EDGES 1. Cut edges flush and or sand them. 2. Bevel the edges (optional) 3. Paint first layer. Paint a relatively thin layer of paint. 4. Crease the edge on both sides. If you have a large contrast between leather color and edge paint, it's important you didn't use to much paint in the last step. 5. Smooth edges This promotes adhesion of paint and also removes the line between layers of leather. I use a high temperature here (7 on Regad) If you use the iron Wax spatula from Regad use a lower temperature because your tool could break. 6. Dry burnish Lay you leather flat on your desk and burnish edges with a clean cloth (Not used with wax) Do this with both Chrome/combination tanned and vegetable tanned. 7. Sand the edge Use 400 grit. Don't stop sanding until your edge is good, if you sand through a lot (especially in folds) I would recommend heating the next layer of paint also. 8. Paint edge A thicker layer this time. 9. Proceed with painting and sanding edges until you are happy with your edge. There is no need to heat/smooth with Fileteuse/heated creaser apart from after the first layer of paint. When your edge is perfect, sand it with 800 grit (or go higher if you want) 10. Rub paraffin on your edge and melt it with Fileteuse or heated creaser. (I use temp 3 on my Regad, you don't want to melt your edge paint here) 11. Burnish your edge with a have cloth. 12. Edge is finished, now you can have a beer or a coffee and show your edge in this thread. (Sorry for the photo, I'm no photographer and struggle to get a nice photo of the edge. (Edit. Sorry Uk friends. Of course Tea is okay too :))
  3. Maybe one of you minds sharing the secret of good clean edge paint with me? I spent the last two weekends trying to figure that out myself and the only thing I learned is how hard it is to peel that stuff off my edges once I screwed it. I'm working a lot of thin leather (1-2 oz) and sometimes it's hard to seal the gap between the 2 sewn pieces by just burnishing it. So I thought I'd give edge paint a try. I tried Giardini black and Fiebings Edge Kote all wit hthe same result: I't wobble and wonky and far from a clean, smooth surface no matter how many layers I apply. What I did is the following: Glue the pieces together - sad them plane - bevel the edges round - (optional) burnishing - apply edge paint (I used a pencil, one of those edge paint appliers that look like paddles and a scratch awl). Firstly there's no way to get a clean line between the leather and the edge paint, you always get more down at one point and less at another so the line is always wobble. And on top of the edge ... it's a total mess. I'm currently at work and cannot attach any images, but I'm sure most of you can imagine what I'm talking about. I read that you can use a modified french soldering iron for the cost of a small house to heat treat it but seriously that's ridiculous for that price, they can't be serious... I also read you don't need to heat treat the Giardini stuff but I can't do it (apparently). Most of the youtube tutorials you find use some 9-10oz unbevelled leather, maybe it's easier with that but for the thin leather I use with a round bevelled edge it's impossible (at least for me). So if anyone has that magic trick to get it look nice please have a heart and share the information. I hate throwing stuff around my workshop but we had a lot leather flying around recently...
  4. Amazing update after a very long time of searching for the right product. I will be in France late December and will be buying some edge paint from mando in paris. (i have explained on my other topic that their edge paint is used by LV\ goyard and some Hermes products according to mando.) Today i got a call from a contact, finally my search ends here! He will be able to source me the exact edge paint used by Hermes (specificly on belts and watch straps where heavier rubbing resistance and durability needed). He told me that this is pretty heavy viscosity product, dries pretty fast and covers amazingly. I will be flying there Thursday to buy some supply for my self and test some other products. The product is more expensive than what mando sells. Mando price is 18 euro + taxes for 1 litre. And the Stahl paint (produced specially for hermes) is 26 euro + taxes for 500ml. From what my contact explains, this is way more concentrated than fenice, berraud and supra c vernish 600 products and requires less coats. So even though the cost of the product is higher, it will be cheaper to use it since less product is needed to achieve the result. If anyone wants some product i will be willing to send you while i am there, Currently they have only the basic 14 pantone colors. They do custom colors but it takes some time and i will be there only for couple of days. If you are interested i can forward it to you guys: 30.68 euro cost of the paint 1.5 euro for the bottle seal shipping and handling - will be added based on your shipping preference. Let me know if you are interested. cheers
  5. I have acquired 3 types of edge finish paints and decided to do a comparison of the three. I painted 3 edges of a piece of 7-8 oz unfinished veg tan using Fiebings Edge Kote, Angelus Acrylic Edge Paint and Giardini MaxMatte Edge Paint. I thinned the Giardini with about 20% water and the other two I used right out of the bottle. Picture 1: Picture 2 is the Fiebings Edge Kote. I applied two coats of each type paint using an edge roller, sanding lightly between coats with 400 grit wet/dry paper. Picture 3 is the Angelus paint: Picture 4 - Giardini paint: I let the paint dry overnight, then took a clean cotton cloth and vigorously rubbed each edge to see how much paint rubbed off. See results in pictures 5, 6 and 7: The Fiebings had the most paint come off on the cloth. I noticed that the Fiebings paint felt dull and slightly coarse, while the Angelus and Giardini both felt smoother and almost like plastic. Next I applied a coat of my leather dressing to each edge, allowed it to dry for a few minutes, then buffed with a clean cloth. The results are shown in the next 3 pictures: Fiebings Angelus Giardini I was surprised to see how much of the Angelus paint rubbed off, while the Fiebings and Giardini both had very little rub off. All three edges had a dull luster after buffing. In my opinion, the Giardini worked the best. It gave a durable, smooth finish and I liked the glossy look. I would not apply any type of finish over the panted edges. Next I would choose the Angelus paint, followed by Fiebings. The Giardini was the most cost effective at @$38 delivered for 1 liter (and it can be diluted with 20% water). It will probably last for many years at the rate I use it, assuming it doesn't gum up from age! I am interested in hearing from other leather workers who may or may not have had similar results using any of these paints. Hope some folks find this information to be useful!
  6. Hi everyone, I've been poring over the forum threads learning all I can about finishing edges - burnishing and all - I want to do Bob Park's method, but in all my experiences I've run into a problem when it comes to using edge paints: how do you paint JUST the edge and not have any of the paint spill on to the front or back of the leather? I've tried a paint brush, dauber, q-tip, sponge - they almost always result in some paint on the front and back instead of only on the edge - and I see Bob (and everyone else who knows how to do this) has amazing contrasting edges with not a drop of colour on the front or back. So - what's the secret? I was looking at one of those electric edging tools - will that help? I work mainly in oil tanned 4-6oz and I'd like to have my edges neatly finished so they don't fray and fold. Thanks!
  7. Dear fellow leatherworkers, I have been following this forum for awhile, thank you all for the tips and information. I am about to have my first small order of 50 pieces of cardholder. I have been using edge paint from fenice or Giardini for my edges of leathergoods. Here I always sand the leather edge down first to even out, then apply a thin layer of edge paint. Next I follow up with the electric creaser acquired from Mando, flattening the paint applied and then i sand it down again and repeat this process. I need the final coat to be smooth and well finished like any luxury leathergoods makes out in the market. I have look around in search of buying a brushing/polishing machine. Omac, Sieck and Randall Campbell stock the following machines: http://www.omacsrl.com/products/finishing/polishing-machines/brushing-machine-sp200/ http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/leather-goods-manufacturing/details/5499/ http://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/burnishing-machines/model-vsb-burnishing-machine/ As these machines come with a hefty price tag, i am thinking of building my own to save cost, however with not much confidence as i am no electrician. I understand so far the motor has to be of the right rpm, horsepower, along with the required finishing wheel (felt, felt with 4 leather, etc). I am thinking either 900rpm or 1400rpm, 1 HP motor. My questions are: 1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110600633578?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Will this sort of motor work? how can i change the shaft/arbor to the right length and dimensions to fit AP size polishing wheels?? Should i use AP or LF wheels? What is the difference? 2) What about variable speed motor? It seems really hard to source one with an inverter and the price tag is pretty high. Can i use a servo motor for sewing machine and convert it to be an edge finishing machine? Am based in the UK and these sewing machine servo motor seem to be a better price. The only issue is how i can keep the servo motor spinning as we all know it has to be activated by a foot pedal. 3) Which sort of wheel do i use for the final finish of the edge paint? cloth and 4 sheet of leather wheel, dense cloth wheel, felt wheel? 4) Vertical or horizontal mounting? I am thinking vertical and i can build a similar box in wood as those commercial ones mentioned in the links, but my question is the weight load of the motor.. what sort of mounting i should use etc. Any experts, please help!! :((
  8. Hi, I was wondering if anyone has tried the Eco Flo edgeflex line and likes or dislikes? Right now I use Angelus acrylic paints on the edges. MANY coats that I leave to dry for a min of 3 hrs each. I was curious if there is a comparable product that is good quality that will last over time! Thanks, Julie
  9. Hello all, A lot of us seem to have one common problem and it is Edge Coating. Currently, I am using Fiebing's Edge Kote and then I apply Fiebing's Tan Kote over it, to prevent edges from colouring arms. BUT, I still get stained hands when the place gets damp. Would anyone, please, give a solution? Thank you in advance, Diana
  10. Dear fellow leatherworkers, I have been following this forum for awhile, thank you all for the tips and information. I am about to have my first small order of 50 pieces of cardholder. I have been using edge paint from fenice or Giardini for my edges of leathergoods. Here I always sand the leather edge down first to even out, then apply a thin layer of edge paint. Next I follow up with the electric creaser acquired from Mando, flattening the paint applied and then i sand it down again and repeat this process. I need the final coat to be smooth and well finished like any luxury leathergoods makes out in the market. I have look around in search of buying a brushing/polishing machine. Omac, Sieck and Randall Campbell stock the following machines: http://www.omacsrl.com/products/finishing/polishing-machines/brushing-machine-sp200/ http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/leather-goods-manufacturing/details/5499/ http://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/burnishing-machines/model-vsb-burnishing-machine/ As these machines come with a hefty price tag, i am thinking of building my own to save cost, however with not much confidence as i am no electrician. I understand so far the motor has to be of the right rpm, horsepower, along with the required finishing wheel (felt, felt with 4 leather, etc). I am thinking either 900rpm or 1400rpm, 1 HP motor. My questions are: 1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110600633578?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Will this sort of motor work? how can i change the shaft/arbor to the right length and dimensions to fit AP size polishing wheels?? Should i use AP or LF wheels? What is the difference? 2) What about variable speed motor? It seems really hard to source one with an inverter and the price tag is pretty high. Can i use a servo motor for sewing machine and convert it to be an edge finishing machine? Am based in the UK and these sewing machine servo motor seem to be a better price. The only issue is how i can keep the servo motor spinning as we all know it has to be activated by a foot pedal. 3) Which sort of wheel do i use for the final finish of the edge paint? cloth and 4 sheet of leather wheel, dense cloth wheel, felt wheel? 4) Vertical or horizontal mounting? I am thinking vertical and i can build a similar box in wood as those commercial ones mentioned in the links, but my question is the weight load of the motor.. what sort of mounting i should use etc. Any experts, please help!! :((
  11. Hello guys! In this post i'd like to show you my attempt on edge finishing, using a local edge paint for this and quite love the result, It comes quite thick from the bottle so i added water to it since its water based, to thin the paint, i prefer thin so its easier for me to apply to the edges. Did quite some layering and sanding on this, and finished by polishing a cloth to the edges. Hope you guys like it. Thanks a lot for viewing! Faridz.
  12. Hi everyone, My name is Aleks and I am from London. Also Russian speaking Two months ago I decided to start practising in making leather goods. I do not make any big projects until I will be confident in all processes like pattern cutting, stitching and finishing edges. This is my last creature, a trolley coin keyring. Materials: black smooth calfskin, natural colour 18/3 Barbour thread and Fenice grey edge paint. Tools: Pro-Line diamond chisel 6spi (new Amy Rokes irons 8spi already ordered), soldering iron withbrass tip from aliexpress (need to order proper Regad Fileteuse with F2 tip), sand paper 400 grit. A nice slanted stitch using single knot and crease line was made using regular soldering iron. This project was made to test new way of stitching and new edge paint. Fenice is much betterthen Giardini. Almost ready to switch my direction to Leo Degarmo brand. Thank you
  13. Hi everyone Apparently you can get Stahl edge paint in USA if you find a right people At the moment I am waiting for an email back with the prices and minimum quantities. They sell in 1 qt or 1 gallon. Price and min quantity depends on colors. If it's a basic black - you can buy less and it cheaper. If some sort of bright red - it's a gallon and price slightly expensive. Postage from the supplier via UPS ground, takes about 3 days to get it here, to NY. Can not be shipped if outside temperature is too low. As far as I was informed, average price is $36.00 per gallon + shipping - will be included in the total price and shared between members. I am willing to organize a group buy if anyone interested. I'll take a 10% (from basic price) organization fee + $0.95 price of the HDPE bottle and lid. Order is - 8oz bottle per person - 4 people red 1qt or 16 people per gallon. I am not sure if it sold by weight or by volume. Shipping to you via USPS Priority mail (up to 3 days) - paid individually depending on your location. US only. Payment via PayPal as family or friends, unless you want to pay PayPal fees as well. Tracking via PM. If anyone interested, please PM or reply to this post with color you interested and how much would you like to take , I'll write it down and we might be able to get what we need. I am personally interested in black, brown (dark or light) and red. Thanks for looking . Olena. This is the picture from Hermes Asia show from 2011
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