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  1. Weaver Easy Edge Beveler **like new** $575 USD (Brand new $1350 USD) Convenient machine gives you the ability to edge all four edges of your strap at once for time savings and reduced labor costs With 12 cutting blades (6 on each side), the blades can be rotated and switched to the opposite side so you don't need to re-sharpen as frequently Bottom blades can be dropped down if you want to edge the top two edges only Does not reduce strap width Accommodates 1/2" to 3" strap widths This Beveler is in Langley British Columbia Canada. I will cover shipping charges with in Canada, if a US sale occurs split the cost.
  2. Prepping for a run of belts with 10-11oz. Wickett & Craig Traditional Harness Leather. Wondering who has had success with burnishing the edges with these hides, as I've heard they can be tricky?
  3. Pretty much brand new, used for 6 months for my product for a local market. Havent used it since. comes with: machine, handle, rest and fileteuse head $290 shipped
  4. I was wondering if yall sand yalls edges before burnishing. I started sanding with a 220 grut and get them smooth and then burnish. Always liked the way they turned out but was wondering if it was just an unnecessary step as I have been getting behind on orders.
  5. Hello All! My buddy picked up this tool at an estate sale... is it what I think it is? Is this an edging tool that I can heat up the head and use to melt the beeswax into the edges of my work? Please say it is, I've been looking for one of these for so long (that didn't cost an arm and a leg). There are no markings on it, no brand name, just looks like an inexpensive old tool. If that's not what it is, any ideas what it could be? Thank you!
  6. Picked this up recently, I thought, what the heck, it just might work. It does! It's great! Easiest and safest method I've tried yet. Jeff
  7. If you could describe this possible stitching/edging procedure, what do you think it is? sam
  8. Hello, Went to a store today that had really nice wallet edges that were painted with an alcohol or oil dye instead of edge paint. They looked really good so I want to try to replicate it. Does anyone have any recommendations, maybe Fiebings, for a dye to use on edges? I'm really confused about the difference between alcohol/oil as well as this pro dye Fiebings has. Also, how do I seal the leather after it is all done? Resolene? Are there any other products? Is Tokonole the same? So confused... Regards, Sam
  9. What size and style edge beveler should i use on 3 to 4 ounce leather, Im thinking a #1 or #0 any help is appreciated
  10. Have looked through many posts but not really had any success in my quest I don't wont to use paints etc on the edges, so need to bring that option up Using very fine about 1mm chrome leather similar to furniture leather, looking to treat the edges without using paints, have tried Gum Trag with limited success and the same with bees wax but is there a better way like heat tools etc Tried creasing with double pronged creaser, and heat, works well with veg tan but hardly a mark with Chrome is it a case of more heat?
  11. Maybe one of you minds sharing the secret of good clean edge paint with me? I spent the last two weekends trying to figure that out myself and the only thing I learned is how hard it is to peel that stuff off my edges once I screwed it. I'm working a lot of thin leather (1-2 oz) and sometimes it's hard to seal the gap between the 2 sewn pieces by just burnishing it. So I thought I'd give edge paint a try. I tried Giardini black and Fiebings Edge Kote all wit hthe same result: I't wobble and wonky and far from a clean, smooth surface no matter how many layers I apply. What I did is the following: Glue the pieces together - sad them plane - bevel the edges round - (optional) burnishing - apply edge paint (I used a pencil, one of those edge paint appliers that look like paddles and a scratch awl). Firstly there's no way to get a clean line between the leather and the edge paint, you always get more down at one point and less at another so the line is always wobble. And on top of the edge ... it's a total mess. I'm currently at work and cannot attach any images, but I'm sure most of you can imagine what I'm talking about. I read that you can use a modified french soldering iron for the cost of a small house to heat treat it but seriously that's ridiculous for that price, they can't be serious... I also read you don't need to heat treat the Giardini stuff but I can't do it (apparently). Most of the youtube tutorials you find use some 9-10oz unbevelled leather, maybe it's easier with that but for the thin leather I use with a round bevelled edge it's impossible (at least for me). So if anyone has that magic trick to get it look nice please have a heart and share the information. I hate throwing stuff around my workshop but we had a lot leather flying around recently...
  12. Hi Folks I have little idea on what heated tools like the soldering irons with creasers or edgers do that make them worth buying rather than for instance using the edge paints that are available Have seen the various hermes and like on youtube and they seem to prefer heat to other means, and always for the line just around the edge Another question if I may, do heat stamps like company stamps offer better results than casing the leather and usiing normal stamps or is it just a more convenient way for professionals
  13. I didn't really know what tags to use. I normally make one sheath at a time, for a man who makes one knife at a time, as he feels like making it in the moment. Then he got an order for 8 -- these six are for members of a military unit, and they're special. A friend of the client, who's not in the unit, wanted one anyway, so that made seven. And the knifemaker decided to go ahead and do another, with a different handle, just to do it -- so that was 8 sheaths. All more or less the same as this -- one left-handed and the rest right. 9-10 ounce vegtan; hand-cut; I make the stitching holes with the awl clamped in a drill press cuz my hands are weak and I have arthritis and trigger finger. Stitching by hand -- 1 mm Tiger thread in Havanna Cigar. Fiebing's Saddle Tan -- which wasn't always co-operative. And the knifemaker was nervous about the whole thing, so he wasn't always all that co-operative either. They went out to the client yesterday. After reading a lot about finishes, I melted mink oil and bee's wax together, 50-50. It's hard and a little sticky. Takes a lot of rubbing in, and a lot of buffing. I used a wheel for that. And I love that high-gloss it gave, after three coats of 50-50 Resolene and water. I was sick on the weekend and finished the buffing with little time before the client arrived. These are the knifemaker's photos -- they don't have the angles I'd have used, but I'm not gonna complain at this point. I'm kinda glad they're gone -- they were starting to weigh on me.
  14. Hi everyone, Been googling all over and finding tonnes of great info around burnishing and using edge paint. Where I’m stuck for this project is dealing with edges on a single piece of leather (I think chrome tanned - certainly not easy to burnish) so the flesh side is exposed. This happens to be a notebook cover and the picture attached is just part of the flap. The flesh side is beautifully soft so I want to keep that as is. I’m just not sure how to deal with the edges. Is there a common approach to treating edges like this? I thought about edge paint but am worried about how that will affect the flesh side of the edge. I will try on some scrape, but if anyone has some suggestions that would be fantastic. Thank you! Greg
  15. Hey all, i recently acquired 5sq ft of elephant that I'm going to use as trim for a duffle bag. The bulk of the bag is going to be black bridle and the elephant will go on the handle. Front flap, and sides. I know how to burnish the bridle, but I'm wondering about the elephant. Any thoughts on the best way to finish the edges, especially where the two species meet?
  16. Hi there! I am a beginner and pretty much self taught. I am interested in learning how to do the lattice work on this bag. I have figured out the measuring, cutting and bevelings, but finishing the edges of the open squares is throwing me for a loop. The openings are too small for my burnishing tool, and I would like them smooth and finished. Any suggestions? Thank you! Aw, the picture did not load up. Its a very nice backpack, too. On the leatherworkings of the bag is a lattice work with open squares. If I can learn it, I might incorporate it into a project. So the question remains: how do you burnish the edges of small openings? Thank you, again!
  17. Hi I'm just about to make my first belts and wallets to get me started. I was wondering about wallet edges. Whilst I like the rustic look with bevelled edges / painted edges do you think most customers prefer folded edges? (So the edge isn't exposed if you know what I mean)
  18. Hello:) This is my first post, and I'm not sure it's right section. English is not my native language, so I please your indulgence So, I'd like to ask what method and what kind of leather is this belt made? In the product description is information: "oil washed vegetable tanned leather", but it look like chrome tanned leather. Mostly I care about greenish-gray colour of the edges, and back. Is any DIY method to achieve effect like this or where I can buy leather like this, thick on 3,5-4mm? Here is next example with similiar effect, but colour is more blueish-gray. I thank You in advance for answer.
  19. Hello all, A lot of us seem to have one common problem and it is Edge Coating. Currently, I am using Fiebing's Edge Kote and then I apply Fiebing's Tan Kote over it, to prevent edges from colouring arms. BUT, I still get stained hands when the place gets damp. Would anyone, please, give a solution? Thank you in advance, Diana
  20. I need to make a lightweight strap for a small bag, and im not in love with having a raw side exposed. How is a strap like this done? It looks like its finished on both sides but no stitching. I don't know if I would want to rely on glue for such an important component.. Either way I was thinking of using either 2 layers of lightweight essex (2-3 oz) or one layer of a 4.5 oz essex. I am a beginner so sorry if this is a silly question.
  21. was hoping a few folks would share their experiences using sharpies, copic markers etc for edges and coloring in blemishes, i am new to leatherwork, still experimenting, and have looked on the forums here and would like to fund out more about what worked for you and what didn't specifically, 1. which markers have worked well for you for coloring edges? and which didnt 2. did you have a particular process before and after using the markers (ex., glue, sand, put gloss coat over afterwards etc) which seemed to work well .. and the opposite, didnt work as hoped... 3. were there types/thicknesses of leather this worked best for you on ; on the opposite side, types where it really didnt work 4. also wondering if marker color holds over time once it dries and sinks in or can it run, or rub off? and a related topic: did anyone try using markers to color in tiny white tears/blemishes in dyed leather? how well did it work.. did the color rub off or sink in and basically work? again, which markers worked fir you, which didnt, types of leather, what processes worked well, etc. thanks in advance for sharing your experiences. i have been working with various remnants .. not exactly sure what type of leather it but at least a few of the remnants seem to be a decent quality. i have been trying markers (several different brands to match a dark navy blue) and the fenice edge paints and gloss coat bought via tandy leather. the experience so far alternates between being fun and being frustrating (:
  22. Hello, I'm somewhat new to leather working....with veg tanned cow hide that is. I've used deer and elk hide over the years to make bags, moccasins, clothing, etc. Now I want to get away from the Native American style leatherwork I have been doing and going to more traditional leatherwork. I still have a supply of deer and elk hide and wonder about making items from it, for instance, journal covers. I wonder how to finish the edges so they don't look so rough. I tried edge trimming but the hide is soft and stretchy and doesn't seem to work. Sanding and rubbing the edges seems to make them 'fur' up. Any ideas? Thanks,
  23. This is the first sheath I've made in full since joining. So my stitching holes are made with an awl, and I use hidepounder's edge technique, and I read a lot about finishes. I have an almost half-full bottle of the old formulation of Super Sheen, which I haven't used before and prolly won't again cuz it's too shiny and looks like vinyl instead of leather. I tried using neutral shoe polish over it to dull it down, but it didn't work. Largely, I'm pleased with this. The stitching holes didn't go through straight though, and the B-side is wobbly. The stamping is more ornate than I like or usually do, but I completely misjudged how much room I needed for a pair of leaves, one of my new favourite stitch-line trims. It doesn't have a belt loop because the woman who's getting it doesn't wear belts and wants a knife to carry in pocket or purse. Can't think of anything else, but if you have any suggestions for improvement for next time (I got a lot of good ones on the stitch line on the reverse side on the another forum here already), please give them!
  24. The Tractor Supply near me has Fiebings' paste sadde soap in a tin like shoe polish, or a liquid glycerine saddle soap in a bottle. Which would I use for burnishing edges of knife sheaths? My first thought would be the paste, but I'm happy to be wrong.
  25. I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
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