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Showing results for tags 'medieval'.
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Hi all, I recently made myself a new pair of reins to use for themed photoshoots and last weekend a friend of mine visited to make some photo's of me and one of the horses with my handmade outfit. Now onto the task of making a matching bridle for this set! So happy how they turned out! The quiver, ridingskirt, saddlepad, reins and armbracers are all selfmade. Bridle by Woodenwulf.
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Hi there, I'm currently working on a cosplay of this character, Guts, from the hit manga Berserk. I'm looking to commission someone to recreate all the leather equipment shown on this character's outfit. If anyone can point me in the right direction, or maybe even offer to make this piece for me, that would be fantastic. I am based in the UK so UK orders would be more preferable. Cheers, Gav
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Topic: stitching chisel Context: Total newbie to shoemaking (I make buckskin moccasins and want to move on to more structured shoes in firm leather). I have lists of the *kinds* of tools I should get, but the lists are general because the exact sizes/specs depend on the kind of shoe you want to make and the weight of leather you want to use. I need more specific advice in order to get the minimal set of serviceable tools. Intended use: To start, I want to make simple medieval-ish high shoes and ankle boots from work-shoe leather, roughly 2mm (5 oz), vegetable tanned, lined in leather as well. I want the work to be strong without looking too coarse, so I'm guessing .55 or .6mm waxed linen thread at around 7 or 8 stitches per inch for the tops? And to stitch the soles... I don't know. Suggestions? Problem: For the sake of neat regularity I'd like to use a diamond point stitching chisel. The ways these tools are described and marketed is completely baffling me. I can't choose. Request: What's the appropriate tooth size and tooth distance for what I want to do?? And what is the best value-for-money brand for a tool that fits that description? Whatever you recommend, please, I need it to be good out of the box. (I don't have either the willingness or the power grinders and stuff to refine a sloppily tooled tool. I have Arkansas stones and Crocus cloth.) -
I just completed this piece. I'm working on a series of bags featuring tooling based on carved wooden designs from Norwegian stave churches, the wonderful old wooden medieval wooden churches. This is a double headed dragon from Ornes stave church, the oldest surviving stave church.
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Got it all stitched up tonight! The Lewis Chessmen are a group of chess pieces found in the early 1800s near Uig Bay, on the Isle of Lewis. They are Viking era pieces, carved out of walrus ivory, and nobody knows why they were cached there. The pieces can be viewed in the British Museum in London, and the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. They're wonderful pieces of early Medieval art. This is the first of a set-- Queen, King, Bishop, Knight, Rook/Warder. The pawns aren't quite so photogenic for bags. Leather: 2 mm veg tan, Eco-Flo Red Waterstain. It's probably one of my Tandy stash of miscellaneous hides. Thread: Ritza Chestnut, 5mm spacing Fabric: Black denim (on the inside) and red Harris Tweed (backed with an iron-on stabilizer). Harris tweed is manufactured not far away from where the chess pieces were found, so it's fitting for use here. zipper charm: a Lewis chessmen bishop, from Ebay. Strap: purchased from Amazon. I could make a strap, but it would take FOREVER to stitch by hand. The price I paid is less than I could actually get the hardware and leather for.
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From the album: Svetliy Sudar Leather Arts Workshop ©
Ragnar Lothbrok Leather Jacket (replica) ⚔️ This is probably one of the most favorite jackets that we did in our Workshop! Handmade. leather lining inside. We made this jacket from soft and durable goat-skin and a thin cowhide as a basis. For the overlay we used 1,2 mm cow leather. Form of overlay is pretty specific. It has 15 figured cuts and 2 parts - front and back, which sewn in two shoulder seams. Braided pattern most closely follows the version of the series. Overlay and outward parts stitched together and with a basis via thin leather straps. There is a lacing on a sides, starting on the sleeve and to the waist. Thus, two cuts are formed on the sides, so the jacket does not hinder the movements. -
I have always wanted a laced sword scabbard, but the amount of work (and wood working experience) required to create a scabbard is daunting. I have a sword, but it already has a scabbard, so what to do? Finally, I got a brainstorm -- I'll just make a sleeve which goes AROUND the existing scabbard, and that'll do the trick! So here's the original tooled design, a key-work panel on the sleeve, with Fiebing HiLighter (modified slightly from the original design, taken from a church in Wales): Geometrics are a pain...but to get it right, go SLOWLY with the swivel knife, and use a straight edge wherever possible. Here's a mock-up of what it will look like, when all done: All that intricate lacing...it's painstaking work -- you can't really cut the slits until you have the belt strips ready to mock it up. The triangular piece to the bottom of the picture is a type of "buckle." The other strap (top center) will end in two strips, which will tie through the holes in the "buckle." It's period -- some medieval art features scabbards done that way. I also decided to cut a 'window' in the wide middle strap to hide less of the nice tooling. Here's the back -- I'm using a baseball stitch to butt-stitch the pieces together, using flat lacing. I'd forgotten how tedious lacing can be; you really have to pay attention to avoid twisting the lace, or getting the pattern wrong (only had to undo two stitches so far!) Here you can see the interlaced straps, linked through each other. I didn't realize it, but the baseball stitching doesn't close the edges as closely as other stitches, so I think the hanger might be a bit loose on the scabbard itself. However, I can glue a 'shim' of thin leather inside the hanger sleeve, and that should snug it right down.
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I want to make more costume and armor pieces, and right now my wife wants me to make her a hood (she calls it an Assassins Creed hood) so she can cosplay her rogue from Pathfinder at the Renaissance Festival this year. And I have some really good lambskin I think will work, I just ... don't know how to do it. Are there patterns available for this sort of thing? Not just hoods but other clothing too. I don't mind paying a little bit for a good pattern as long as it doesn't cost a fortune. TIA.
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Got this just about finished tonight. It just a needs a bit of cleanup on some edges and a nice coat of Resolene. I have more info about the process, featuring internal shots and pre-assembly pictures, on my website: <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Walpurgis Wallet/WalpurgisWallet.htm>
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This is the pattern for the panel of the scabbard hanger. It's not knotwork, but actually referred to as a "key" panel. It's based on a pattern taken from Bain's famous Celtic Knotwork book, from a section of key panels. The original is found somewhere in a church in Wales. It's not Celtic or Viking, but just plain medieval. -
Front detail of the key-work panel, with strap placement. -
A relative of mine, a couple years back, walked the medieval pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago, from Le Puy, France to Santiago de Compostella, Spain (2 1/2 months of nearly daily hiking, all on foot, about 1500 km). So this summer, I made her a commemorative bag, similar to the one the medieval pilgrims used, as pictured in art like this: And here's my version: I used some red-brown chrome tanned leather (picked up at a Tandy clearance sale) for the bag, and some thick tooling leather for the flap. The tooled design is a scallop shell, the symbol of St. James. The golden shell and blue background are used as trail markers across the Camino. That's Angelus light blue and gold acrylic paint on the front flap. 3 coats of SuperShene on the flap, too. The edges are coated with Fiebeing's Edge Kote in black. The closer hardware is from Ohio Travel Bag. They have a LOT of cool hardware! The tassels are handmade (wrapped with black thread and gold wire)-- see close-up here: I am very pleased with my stitching -- I used a 3 mm Japan Goods stitching chisel. I used Natural waxed linen thread for the bag and Blue waxed linen at the top of the blue flap. Other stitching used Red waxed linen. Both the Red and Blue thread are from Royalwood, Ltd. in Ohio (see their website here:<https://www.royalwoodltd.com/>) There is a cloth liner inside, using hand-printed fabric which features the shell motif and the St. James cross: Even the strap hangers keep the shell motif (using Fiebing Mahogany to get that red-brown color): I learned a LOT from making this bag. The full story of the bag (with work-in-progress pictures) is located at my website, here: <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Camino Bag/CaminoBag.htm> The strap is not done yet -- I didn't have enough time to finish it before giving to the new owner. I'll get the measurements and make that later on.
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From the album: DJole -- Completed Work
in commemoration of one person's completion of the Camino de Santiago -- over 1500 km of walking. -
I'm making more sets of forehead "crash pads" for longsword fencing. The forehead is a frequent target, and a sword to the mask can leave some dents! But this is a piece of armor that attaches to the mask (with foam padding underneath) that will help cushion the blow. And since it's armor for swordfighting, why not put a swordsman on the piece? This man in his fancy pants is standing in a guard, ready to strike a fearsome blow. Note the swivel knife for scale, and the printed woodcut to the right, which was the traced source for this. Working in miniature is a pain!
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From the album: DJole -- Completed Work
Here are the two panels sewn together, with the center strip, in place on a mask. The antique black of the swordsmen really makes a nice touch here! -
From the album: DJole -- Completed Work
Here are the left and right panels. The left figure is from a manuscript, so I have to depend on shading with my spoon modeler rather than the dazzling cuts and lines of the woodcut figure to the right. Both figures are from Medieval sword fighting illustrations -- the guy with the bowl hair cut is wielding a Messer, and the fancy fellow standing in the Zornhut guard has a longsword. The pencil shows the scale -- these guys are pretty small! The panels are Fiebing's USMC black, and I will use antique black on the figures. Then I'll stitch them together and put in the fastening holes. I'll make sure, when it's all done, to show how it fits onto the fencing mask. -
From the album: DJole -- Completed Work
This is one panel for a fencing mask overlay (two pieces on the forehead, this is one half. To see the scale, look at the swivel knife to the right. Working in miniature like this is a pain! -
Hello! I was wondering if anyone knows some sources on medieval leatherwork. I've been tooling leather for about a year, but I have a major interest in the medieval period. I don't do re-enactment myself, but I would like to know how to make leather projects that are about as accurate as they can get. I have been looking on the internet, but couldn't find any books or other information on medieval leatherwork. There are some patterns, but it is often unclear to me if they are actually medieval, or whether they were based on modern (fantasy) movies. I am therefore looking for sources about this. For patterns it could be preserved items from the middle ages, but for the leatherworking process, a description is probably needed... Any information is welcome! About tanning and preparation, stitching, tooling, colouring, perhaps some patterns, other processes (such as making cuir bouilli). Is there anyone who knows such sources? My thanks!
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From the album: DJole -- Completed Work
In progress--tooling completed (shading, beveling, backgrounding). I love the deep folds on Mary's dress. -
Hello all, I'm looking for some guidance here. I'm planning on making my first set of turnshoes and I'm having trouble finding what leather thickness to use. The more technical texts (Shoes and Pattens, Anglo-Scandinavian Leatherworking in York), talk about types of leather but not thicknesses. Tutorials online contradict each other - some say to use 5/6oz leather, at least one says that anything thicker than 4 oz will always split when you turn them. Given that the leather species used for uppers in medieval contexts was often calf, sheep, or goat, it seems like the leather would be quite thin - maybe2- 3 oz. But how on earth could you do a butt stitch or tunnel stitch on such thin leather(like for heel stiffeners and closing seams). So, for those of you in the know - what thickness have you used for uppers? Has anyone had any luck doing closing seams on really tin leather?
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From the album: Leather helm crests
This is a leather helm crest based on my Coat of Arms in the SCA. It was made with materials that would have been used during the Middle Ages along with the same techniques. To learn more about how it was made you can read the PDF I posted here... http://www.leatherbybarry.com/SCA/SkullHelmCrest.pdf This helm is currently not completed. I will post more pictures and update the PDF when it is finished.© Barry hicks
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Hi y'all! I'm a medieval geek from Montréal with a passion for costuming,swordfight and more recently leatherworking. I've always been fascinated with leather armors and all the intricate techniques that are implied un their making. In the past month, I finally geared up with the essential. I am now crafting pieces of armor and celtic-themed accessories of my own. Anybody else in the area? Anyhow, I can't wait tout get criticism from you people! By the way, I'm looking for good armor patterns, anybody has some good websites that could help In my quest for the most epic armor In the universe? -
Hey everyone. It's been a while. Over the last couple of years I've been studying how to make leather helm crests. I uploaded a couple of photos of the two I have been working on recently. Here's a link to the gallery. I also put up a link to the documentation as to how they are made. I also have a blue hoer I need to upload as well, which I will do hopefully over the next day or so. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2314 It's a very different kind of approach to leather because the leather is the base of the finished piece. Here's a peak at one of them...
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From the album: Leather helm crests
This is a leather helm crest based on my Coat of Arms in the SCA. It was made with materials that would have been used during the Middle Ages along with the same techniques. To learn more about how it was made you can read the PDF I posted here... http://www.leatherbybarry.com/SCA/SkullHelmCrest.pdf This helm is currently not completed. I will post more pictures and update the PDF when it is finished.© Barry hicks
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From the album: Leather helm crests
This is a leather helm crest based on my Coat of Arms in the SCA. It was made with materials that would have been used during the Middle Ages along with the same techniques. To learn more about how it was made you can read the PDF I posted here... http://www.leatherbybarry.com/SCA/SkullHelmCrest.pdf This helm is currently not completed. I will post more pictures and update the PDF when it is finished.© Barry hicks
