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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne
  2. I have two hides of thinner 4oz horween Essex that I just can not seem to get a straight and neat stitch groove on. The leather stretches so much that I can't apply enough pressure with the stitching groover guide without the leather moving and creating a wavy stitch groove. I'm not sure if I should be burnishing the edge slightly before marking the stitching line so there is less give/stretch to the edge? Should I try using a ruler to guide the grooving tool or get one of the divider/caliper style tools to make a stitching line. I only have this problem with thin leather, anything over 6oz allows me to make a perfect stitching groove. I would appreciate any advise.
  3. Hello fellow leather workers! I have recently graduated with my bachelors degree and used the money I saved up as well as some of my graduation money to purchase a Cobra Class 4 for my business! Now, I am thinking of getting a sewing machine for the lighter ounces of leather that I use. Mainly, the removable pigskin liners that I put inside my totes. I know that they will be way below the capabilities of the Cobra Class 4. I am looking for a smaller machine that is able to sew 2-6 ounces that is around $1000 or under (under would be preferred). Space is a factor so a smaller cylinder arm machine without a massive table would would be the best. Any recommendations would be awesome!! Thank you!
  4. I would like to see some thin (2, 3, or 4oz) samples of Hermann Oak -- preferably bridle or harness leather. Any color. I know there are some spots to buy it buy the sqft, but I don't have the ability to split the the standard stuff to what I want. I'm happy to pay for shipping, the leather, and your trouble. Thanks!
  5. Will "pasted flesh" make leather thicker? I'm looking to buy some leather from Wickett & Craig and have it skived down to 2oz. I have the option of having it refinished and pasted, but I'm curious if the paste application will make the leather much thicker. - How much thicker will paste make the leather? - Also, will paste make the leather stiffer? more durable? Thanks for the help!
  6. Is 2oz English Bridle Leather too thin for a wallet? I'm looking to make an ultrathin wallet, but I also want to keep the leather firm and durable. I've spoken with reps at Wickett & Craig and Hermann Oak about splitting leather down to 2oz. Each has said that they don't advise the leather to be split that thin. Why do you guys think? If I made a wallet out of 2oz EBL, would it fall apart? Does anyone have experience working with EBL that thin? Thanks!
  7. I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
  8. Hi, I am looking for someone help to re-create my old wallet with slighly modifies. I have attached the image, for the front i try to get it simple with only 2 pockets and have my name print it out side. and on the inside, hoping that I can have 3 cards slots in each side. Please contact me if you can help me to re-create this wallet, and I am hoping to get a great quality of leather (soft one perhaps). If you can send me your couple wallet pictures that you've created or just a link to your website or facebook, that will be really great! I can be emailed on dark_invieder@hotmail.com Well...i tried to attach the email, but it wont works. so, just email me if you interested. I'll send you the picts on your email. Thanks
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