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Found 5 results

  1. 1st step is to make the rust. You need 30% food grade hydrogen peroxide. I used a 12 oz bottle added 2 oz white supermarket vinegar and 2 table spoons of salt swirled it around in a spray bottle until the salt dissolved. then hardware store steel wool, dunk it in a bowl of acetone, shake it off and separate/pull apart the wool so that is not all compressed and use a heat gun or hairdryer to dry it. You don't want it catch on fire. So low heat and then.. once dry spray the wool with vinegar and let it dry. U can use hairdryer again if you don't mind the smell. then spray with the hydrogen peroxide/vinegar/salt solution and INSTANT RUST. BE CAREFUL WHAT ELSE GETS SPRAYED WITH THE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. things can catch fire apparently like organic matter. I did it in the garden and the plants didn't catch on fire but you can see a lot of heat is produced. Rust stains bricks etc. Let it dry out and then put it in a container with apple cider vinegar. I used normal and double strength and I can't tell the difference I don't think. The steel wool is dissolved much faster this way and your vinegaroon is ready pretty much straight away. Then of course you can apply it to your vege tan leather three or more times gets it pretty black. As black as you would ever want it. Dont forget to neutralize the vinegar with bi Carb soda and water. Just rinse with it. And then fresh water to finish. So it's not click your fingers quick, but it's not going to take days or weeks and making the instant rust is great fun. Any questions just let me know. Thanks
  2. So far, I have been using Tandy's rubber cement stuff to hold two pieces of leather together so that I can sew. The problem I have been having is with wallets in particular. I make the inside portion of the wallet shorter lengthwise than the outside, in order to assist the wallet in folding. So the cement I have been using doesn't work great because the two pieces wont hold in place while I wait for it to set up (I tried using clamps, but they mark the leather). Long story short, does anyone know of any glue that hold leather on leather really well that isnt extremely messy or overly toxic? I have read that Barge's is extremely toxic and contains carcinogens. Does anyone have experience with Weldwood? I guess I am looking for more of a permanent bond to hold the leather in place without clamps.
  3. I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
  4. So today i finished my knife sheath , along the lines of making it i left out some burnishing , which made it really difficult to do when the case was put together. the edges are a bit rough because i have no skyver to take down the thickness of suade before stitching it so i had to try and do it with a blade which didn't work so well . well here it is .......
  5. Hello everyone, I joined this forum after reading through a bit and realized that this community is exactly the type of people I need to talk to. My company is beginning production of our leather wallet series. I am looking for a soft and supple lambskin, to have exposed on the outside of one of the wallets. Currently, the leather supplier we have chosen is Horween for our standard leather, since we plan on making Shell Cordovan models. But our long women's wallet will need to be covered in a very soft additional layer of leather. Having chosen lambskin, due to its soft texture, we have been looking for the best tannery to supply us with the best possible lambskin that money can buy. We are not concerned with hide pricing, only quality. My question to everyone is this, what would you consider to be the best possible lambskin leather distributor in the world? Responses here are just fine, but feel free to contact us at office.imageco@gmail.com as well
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