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About JLSleather

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    My babies, leathercraft, fishin'

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  1. JLSleather

    Makers stamps, who’s the best?

    Alex is da man. Have we not seen the middle link below my posts?@! Very 3-D.. not like that "line art" you usually see. This is taken with the light straight down on the center of the design. Design is about 2 3/8" x 1 5/8" And this is the SAME piece of leather, pic taken with light moved to the left, so you can see the 3D effect it leaves (the light source will ALWAYS be right, no matter where the leather is -- just like any tooling present). Pay no attention to the flakes of white stuff I knocked onto the leather taking this pic And the last one is less than half the size of this one... about 7/8" x 7/8". Alex made me BOTH of these for less than some make ONE simple line art thing.. which I could do with a swivel knife!
  2. JLSleather

    Lots of tooled Bags

    Yup, it's good for a guy to see where he can improve... that's HOW you improve. But I think they look pretty good. The lace on the flap only is a little different (different is good), and the colors look great (is that stain?)
  3. JLSleather


    Yup, second this. Take it off the "smart" end, make it look consistent as possible. If you takin' 3.5 " or so off, then cut 2" off on the end, then use that end piece as a template to get the same curve back on the new end.
  4. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

  5. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    How ya move the stitch line in after ya start?#@! Not gittin' the process here. 'Course, I don't understand them fellas preach at ya 'don't sew across a strap cuz ya weaken it'... then double stitch holes in a holster
  6. I'll contact you for the pic.
  7. JLSleather

    Walther PPS M2 Pancake Holster

    I put my stitch lines around the outside AFTER it's glued and trimmed (if needed) so I'm never closer than I thought I would be. And to burnish inside the slot, all you need is a piece of wooden dowel, available at any hobby store, or Lowes, or Menards, etc.
  8. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    You kin keep the runts on Leech (assuming you're in line with all the other liberal rules n laws n regs n statutes n ordinances They have a no-kill slot (20-26, or was it 22-26) and you can keep ONE over 26, or in other words, keep 4 fish under 2 lbs-ish. Which is fine for lunch on the lake, but for dinner, I eat 6 of those just waiting for the taters to get done! Off to the gym... before I change my mind
  9. JLSleather

    BWC Area

    IS there a 'bitch, whine, complain' section? You know, like the 'show off' section, or the supplier section. Or, is that BWC normally JUST ME ... NOT FOR THE FIRST TIME, I got a message from a fella - wants a belt that tapers (and shows a pic attached of a ranger belt). And gimme an estimate for cow, shark, stingray, elephant, and sumthin else... cuz "I don't want to spend a fortune" I don't even have a source for some of that. ANybody know where to get stingray 50" long for under $1k?
  10. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    EVERYBODY misses that. You can still FISH it, just can't KEEP any of 'em.. catch 'n release only. Now, with Redheads, I git that, but walleyes I sometimes want to bring home
  11. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    I wonder if aguycould raise the feed dog just a tad and stop that? I don't race around a holster - much slower than I go down the side of a belt - so I'm sure that helps. The dog should be at or just above the plate when the needle enters. If it's still below the plate, that could result in stitching angling toward the back edge. (note, in MN "aguycould" is one word).
  12. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    I didn't get a pic of the back of this one - in the box and gone. But this pic is the same P365, done the same way with the same pattern.
  13. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    Oh, yeah - gotcha. I have everything all done.. including edging .. before I sew the edges. Once it's edged, THEN I mark the sewing line "a strong 1/8" in from the edges, including the edge of the slot (with the disclaimer that on some models I go a little wider from the slot ONLY, just found it fits the look of some models better). You do have to watch when sewing with a machine that you don't get SUCKED DOWN IN the slot in the plate, which can result in that angled stitch. I dn't get a lot of that, but I've had it happen so I know what you mean. I USUALLY (again, I almost never say 'never') sew with the left toe and with the holster to the outside, so only that 1/8+" is over the slot. This is due to the holster being a #curvedpanel - with a 50/50 you could easily put it to the inside, and then your issue is eliminated. Or, you could sew and then trim
  14. JLSleather

    Sig P365 n shark

    Not sure i'm followin' yer question. I cut the parts, glue the shark to the stiffener (4/5 oz tooling), then glue and sew those to the front panel, with some arch in it. Then glue, trim, punch slot, and sew the front section. I sew it after it's already trimmed to match. Then glue, trim, punch slot, and sew the "back end". I sew it after it's already trimmed to match. When I'm done sewing, dye the edge and burnish (first pass) before wet forming the holster. I hit the edges again when it's nearly dry, though depending on the work load it sometimes gets away from me and i end up re-wetting the edges to burnish later. Doesn't change the result one way or other, but hitting it while its "right" moisture content first time saves time in the end. Maybe something in there answered your question ...