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About JLSleather

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    My babies, leathercraft, fishin'

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  1. BOTH dies sharp and ready to use. $100 for BOTH +$15 priority shipping (in US).
  2. ALSO... couple of clicker dies laying here, need to get put to use. One cuts a 4x4 square for drink coasters (or whatever else it might suit) The other has a dual use as well - cuts the ends of gun slings and belt loops for IWB holsters. I'll get a pic of that shortly ...
  3. Note the hello kitty computer speakers not included
  4. These are STILL HERE?@! ALL TEN dummy guns for $200 plus shipping (which I think is about $15... did priority box go up again or no)?
  5. look purdy goody, but you maya mista spot (?)
  6. New phone .. this thing got a camera nicer than my old camera So, gotta find a tripod er sumthin fer it, then I think i'll try add one more holster pattern with a video on howta make it? Sig 238 pocket holster maybe ... That's not a question, but idiots these days say everything like it was a question, and i figgered wuz my turn to be that idiot
  7. Cupple things I DONT like here, personal preference which I'd tell ya about if'n ya wuz ta ask, but bottom line thats a nice lookin' set and i don't mind it one bit
  8. I got a 6' aluminum "ruler" and a 24"x16" "carpenter square" from Menards... in the drywall section. Cheap, straight, 72" long, and doesn't corrode or mark the leather. Worked well for years now. As for how to divy up the hide, this is what i generally do for the type of projects you're on about. Measure over from the right side (the back or spine) at each end so you have a line roughly parallel to the spine and cut off the belly. This belly leather is useless for straps, but often is fine for lining belts or straps. Then measure about 60" from the butt end and cut off the neck square to the belly cut you made. Then just lay your straight edge on the side where shown in your picture and cut the straight line. This will leave you with a rectangle of good solid leather for straps, usually about 60" x 24" (you can go wider by cutting less of the belly off, but again the lower you go the softer the leather). This rectangle is your leather for belts, straps. Figure about 10" longer than the "size" for belts, so this lets you cut belts for people up to size 50 (which is MOST people) without a lot of waste. *Cutting straps from the full length of the hide will leave you with a bunch of short (18-24") pieces not that convenient. (NOTE that a guy making guitar straps might be able to use some these shorts for 2-piece straps, just add a buckle). The SHOULDER (the part above the 60" cut off) is good for holsters, knife sheaths, and other small projects that require firm leather. And again the belly leather is often acceptable for strap LINING or for small projects not requiring strength (like wallets, not carved, for example).
  9. too bulky and heavy for me - kaint maneuver well as I'd like. And I actually used one for doing LARGE areas and had one COME OFF... just dropped on the floor due to the weight of the glass and dye... BIG mess everywhere. Guess that's why Paasche makes a SCREW ON version
  10. Yup. Too much emphasis on the "artwork" and not nearly enough on emphasizing the BUSINESS. Used to be a fiver.com thing (or something like that)... seriously people would COMPETE for your business at things like this logo stuff... FOR $5! Just to get some recognition, I suppose, but I talked to people a few years back who had entire web sites made (well) for a handful of dollars ... OH, OH .. good space for a "plug" for somebody... DO order with Bob at Toledo Ind Sewing. When I ordered thread, Bob called to make sure what he had was what I wanted, and when I had a sewing issue, Bob recommended a plan on what to get AND WHY, and when I ordered just a bit, Bob contacted to remind me that what I USUALLY order would fit in the same box, thus same shipping cost, instead of ordering that other thing in a couple weeks and paying $12-15 in shipping I could have avoided (but he didn't ASSUME that and just do it without telling me)
  11. Seems reasonable they would contact you to VERIFY that you're okay with the MORE THAN DOUBLE price change. They SHOULD have simply said that they are OUT of the item you ordered, and ASKED if you'd like the other item. What they did is absurd, and I agree that you could refuse their "service". Difference here is ... I would be NAMING them. Publicly, profusely, and loudly. I would keep the original AND a digital copy of the original order AND the charge AND the bank overdraft (with date) and WELCOME any 'legal action' they want to take about my statements. PUH LEEZE sue me ... so we can sit in a court room (with me, probably more than one ) and talk about doubled debits to my account and any 'threats' you made about suing me. People are NUTS these days in general. Somehow have got the idea that they're allowed to do pretty much whatever they want and if you complain there's something wrong WITH YOU ?@!
  12. a simple, inexpensive, single-action airbrush, sometimes viewed as a "cheap" model not to be sought. But I've seen some STUNNING art work done using ONLY the Paasche H
  13. Yup. Found them still on the desk and wondered why
  14. external mix siphon feed and double action are not exclusive of each other. my paasche VL is an external mix, siphon feed, double action brush (works well). very few airbrushes are internal mix, and they are priced much higher than the external mix counterparts. It's true though that the internal mix generally allows much finer detail (though the paints may be restricted in type... leather dyes would likely need to be strained before using in internal brushes). I like the syphon feed type just because the "cup" is usually larger (as opposed to gravity feed brushes). The Paasche VL I started with because that's what S-T Leather (St Louis, MO) was selling at the time and I didn't know any better. I have since purchased several more of the same model - VERY handy for leather work, capable of a wide range of applications without altering anything other than screwing on a tip. See it here I do not recommend spending the (much) extra money for a "airbrush compressor". I have always used a pancake-type compressor, standard for use with nail guns and impact wrenches, etc. Long as you have a pressure regulator and a moisture trap (which you should have no matter what you're using for the air). The one I currently use came FREE at Menards with the purchase of a finish nailer I used for new kitchen counter kick plate trim. Already had a regulator, so just add an in-line moisture trap (under $20) and off ya go. I set mine 20-40 psi depending on what I'm doing. It kicks on, makes noise, then I can spray for half an hour before it kicks on again. Want to get quiet? Put the compressor in the next room (or a closet) and run an air hose to where you're working
  15. Personally I would SIMPLIFY that logo. Looks okay, but I think you'll find that LESS detail is better. On line, simpler images load faster and require less resolution (which makes them, again, load faster). And in print, you'll find that multiple color printing adds cost quickly. And - each his own - I do not like "script" fonts, unless it's very brief and recognizable text. EVERYTHING is legible when its 4" across Simple is good. Think of some BIG ones everybody recognizes... Target - one color, one shape McDonalds - one color, just a couple "arches" Nike - just a 'checkmark' Etc, etc....
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