Yellowhousejake

They do not hand polish lacquer on the bottom of a dinning room table. Nor do they paint the back side of a portrait. Some makers will, if you want to pay them for it. I am sure if someone wanted a maker to stamp a holster inside, outside, and backside some would happily oblige and bill the their time accordingly. Not doing what customers will not pay for is not lazy. DAve

I am not certain I will like the antique either. But, I will try it and see. DAve

All good info, thank you. I am also concerned about the antique getting into the stitching and I was afraid just taping it off would leave a line where the antique did not get applied. I didn't think about putting my resoline on before I antiqued. Here is a picture of the holster I made earlier. I want to do that same holster for a snubbie King Cobra but move the maker stamp to the reinforce and basketweave the holster body. DAve

Howdy folks, I have been making my own holsters for a while and decided to try tooling for a change. I am confused because I see so many blogs where they apply the antique to leather that is not a project, or show a finished project with antique already applied. I normally cut, trim, dye, sew, form, then finish the edges. When do I apply the antique? I am thinking I should do it right after I dye as the holster would be easier to work with when it is flat. Will the antique cause problems working with the leather to sew and form? Will the antique block the water when casing the leather to form (lightly form, not a full vacuum form)? Thanks, DAve

New member here, so forgive me if I am stepping on anything. Concerning the right side butt forward holster for revolver users during the ACW. It is correct that the revolver was intended for the left hand as the saber was still considered the primary weapon at the time and it was used right handed. Hence the holster design. So, consider this. Take any single action (Model P, 1851 Navy, 1860 Army, Remington, etc) and hold it your left hand and raise it into your "workspace" (to borrow a modern tactical term) with the muzzle held to the sky and the right side facing you. Notice that now on C&B revolvers the frame's loading window is easily accessible when inserting paper cartridges. You can operate the loading lever with your right hand without losing your firing grip. The cut for placing caps is also easily accessible to the right hand. On the Model P (1873 Colt SA) when you are ejecting spent shells using your right hand to operate the ejector they slide right out the ejector cut, across the frame, and drop to the ground. Try operating a single action while holding it in your left hand and performing the reload with your right, it will all make sense. IMO, the single action pistol was designed from the ground up to be reloaded and fired while holding it in your left hand. Once you do it it's obvious and might encourage you to shoot your SA left handed. I do now. Just my possibly useless 2 cents worth. DAve