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Jc911rsa

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  1. Jc911rsa

    686 Holster

    Beautiful work! What is the leather inlay that you used? Thanks
  2. Thanks for the feedback! I use fiebings purple and reduce to the color I liked!
  3. I tried my first tote bag and I’m pretty happy with the results. Toughest part for me was keeping the pattern Square! Any suggestions? Your feedback is appreciated Jeff
  4. Yes, I bought mine from maverick. The strips are narrow, so finding the section to create a holster ends up with a fair amount of waste. FYI
  5. Great article thank you for sharing! I agree the cosmetics are not as good as cowhide especially Hermann oak. I don’t think the extra effort using horsehide was worth it for me. Wet Molding was very difficult as mentioned in the article. I did find the horsehide is more dense and harder when dry for similar thickness cowhide.
  6. Thanks guys. I think that next try will be two layers for the tab to give it more thickness. Nobody commented on horsehide. Anyone else ever try it?
  7. Yes sideforce the horsehide is stiffer for the same weight compared to the Hermann oak I use. It was really hard to cut! Anyone else using horsehide for holsters?
  8. I am trying out a new holster design (M&P shield) that has the close to the body results of a pancake without the bulk. I tried horsehide for the first time. VERY dense leather tough to cut and sew. Edges beautifully. Very stiff for relatively thin 7 oz leather. What do you think?
  9. Does anyone know where I can demo a Cobra machine before I make the leap into buying my first sewing machine? I’m in Philly but can travel east coast thanks Jeff
  10. Thank you both! just antiqued a second time and it looks great. Antique after wet molding next build jeff
  11. After dying, pro resist,, antiquing my holsters, I find that the antique terns a grayish color when I wet mold the holsters. I can reapply the antique and it’s fine but what would be causing that and are there any solutions? Antique after wet mold? No finish was applied thanks Jeff
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