Glue And Leather Types For Inlay And Filigree Work?

[KatRides]

Hey all, newbie here jumping in with both feet as I seem to want to do...

I saw a bunch of YouTube videos by Lisa Sorrell and her amazing work ... this is my end goal, but in the meantime since I"m too far away to take any of her classes I"m hoping someone else can help me with some basic starting info... what is the best type and weight of leather for this type of work and I also noticed that she used glue that she could just mop on the surface of all her little pieces for assembly, what kind of glue is that????

also what is the best size thread and needle to do the sewing after assembly??? I've tried with some different leather but don't have an endless supply of $$$ to keep buying leather until I get it right and there is no one even close to my area that does anything other than basic beginner tooling..... HELP !!!!!

Thanks folks, I'm looking forward to getting to know everyone here int his wonderful forum as time goes on!

Kat

[katsass]

Hey all, newbie here jumping in with both feet as I seem to want to do...

I saw a bunch of YouTube videos by Lisa Sorrell and her amazing work ... this is my end goal, but in the meantime since I"m too far away to take any of her classes I"m hoping someone else can help me with some basic starting info... what is the best type and weight of leather for this type of work and I also noticed that she used glue that she could just mop on the surface of all her little pieces for assembly, what kind of glue is that????

also what is the best size thread and needle to do the sewing after assembly??? I've tried with some different leather but don't have an endless supply of $ to keep buying leather until I get it right and there is no one even close to my area that does anything other than basic beginner tooling..... HELP !!!!!

Thanks folks, I'm looking forward to getting to know everyone here int his wonderful forum as time goes on!

Kat

FWIW from the old grump: I do a little bit of inlay work -- no filigree stuff though. From my point of view it partially depends on what you intend to make, as far a choice of leather goes. Since I make holsters and some knife sheaths, I'll go from that point of view.

I make most all of my holsters and sheaths from two layers of 4/5 oz leather, bonded together on their flesh sides. In general --- that's just how an inlay is done. Two layers of leather with a piece of (usually) exotic leather sandwiched between. 4/5oz works very well. Of course there is a 'window' cut in the surface piece so that the exotic can show through. I use Weldwood contact cement for all of my work --- not their 'gel' formula, but the one that is solvent based. It brushes on like you describe. It's available at most of the big home improvement stores, Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, etc.

Cut out the pattern for the item you are going to make, That will be two pieces --- one a mirror image of the other. Cut the 'window' area out in the piece that will be the outside or front of your project.. If you are going to dye the thing --- do it now. I don't suggest that you use any of the Tandy eco-flo stuff. Use a good solvent based dye such as Fiebing's or Angelus. Burnish the inside edges of the window and cut a stitching groove 3/8" or less from the edge of it. Cut your inlay piece about 1/2" larger (all around) than the window and glue it in place. Stitch that inlay down to the shell. I use #1 sized needles and five cord waxed linen thread. Take the mirror image of the front piece and slather the contact cement all over the flesh side of it and the flesh side of the front piece -- including the back of the inlay. when just slightly tacky, carefully align them and stick 'em together. I then usually stack something heavy on the piece and let it sit for an hour of so -- just to ensure good adhesion. From there on it's normal assembly EXCEPT for the fact that you need to stitch around ALL edges. I'd sugest that to start with you use snake (without scales) frog, lizard, or an embossed skin of around 2/3oz. in thickness. Things like 'gator, stingray, and to an extent ostrich shin (leg) need to be worked a bit to stitch in place. Work on those after you work out using something cheaper and easier to work with. A few pics of some of my inlaid items. Hope this helps. Mike

P.S. The last pic is of a three-dimentional snake without stitching -- that's a bit different and a little more dificult to do.

Edited June 14, 2012 by katsass

[KatRides]

WOW thanks so much for the detailed help, it gives me a lot more confidence that in what I"m trying to do. I guess I am on the right track after all. This help so much thank you thank you !

FWIW from the old grump: I do a little bit of inlay work -- no filigree stuff though. From my point of view it partially depends on what you intend to make, as far a choice of leather goes. Since I make holsters and some knife sheaths, I'll go from that point of view.

I make most all of my holsters and sheaths from two layers of 4/5 oz leather, bonded together on their flesh sides. In general --- that's just how an inlay is done. Two layers of leather with a piece of (usually) exotic leather sandwiched between. 4/5oz works very well. Of course there is a 'window' cut in the surface piece so that the exotic can show through. I use Weldwood contact cement for all of my work --- not their 'gel' formula, but the one that is solvent based. It brushes on like you describe. It's available at most of the big home improvement stores, Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, etc.

Cut out the pattern for the item you are going to make, That will be two pieces --- one a mirror image of the other. Cut the 'window' area out in the piece that will be the outside or front of your project.. If you are going to dye the thing --- do it now. I don't suggest that you use any of the Tandy eco-flo stuff. Use a good solvent based dye such as Fiebing's or Angelus. Burnish the inside edges of the window and cut a stitching groove 3/8" or less from the edge of it. Cut your inlay piece about 1/2" larger (all around) than the window and glue it in place. Stitch that inlay down to the shell. I use #1 sized needles and five cord waxed linen thread. Take the mirror image of the front piece and slather the contact cement all over the flesh side of it and the flesh side of the front piece -- including the back of the inlay. when just slightly tacky, carefully align them and stick 'em together. I then usually stack something heavy on the piece and let it sit for an hour of so -- just to ensure good adhesion. From there on it's normal assembly EXCEPT for the fact that you need to stitch around ALL edges. I'd sugest that to start with you use snake (without scales) frog, lizard, or an embossed skin of around 2/3oz. in thickness. Things like 'gator, stingray, and to an extent ostrich shin (leg) need to be worked a bit to stitch in place. Work on those after you work out using something cheaper and easier to work with. A few pics of some of my inlaid items. Hope this helps. Mike

P.S. The last pic is of a three-dimentional snake without stitching -- that's a bit different and a little more dificult to do.