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craftsman827

Need Help Splicing Leather

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I have an order for a 12 foot X 1 inch leather DOG leash.

I'm using W&C english bridle leather 10/12 oz.

I need some advise on how to splice 2, 6 foot pieces together to make one long leash.

The customer Don't want rivets, so I'm just going to hand stitch.

QUESTION IS : whats the best & strongest way to sew it together. EX: overlap, or use a small 2 inch piece over the splice???

All sugestions welcome...

Edited by craftsman827

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I have an order for a 12 foot X 1 inch leather DOG leash.

I'm using W&C english bridle leather 10/12 oz.

I need some advise on how to splice 2, 6 foot pieces together to make one long leash.

The customer Don't want rivets, so I'm just going to hand stitch.

QUESTION IS : whats the best & strongest way to sew it together. EX: overlap, or use a small 2 inch piece over the splice???

All sugestions welcome...

I like to skive both ends to be joined so the overlap is the same thickness as the rest. I then use Barge Cement. And then I stitch a square around the overlap and an "X" across it.

Strong like bull.

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Do you have enough length in your leather to cut the strap on a curve? this will give you a lot of extra length and the leather will pull into shape if you wet it before stretching..

If not then skive both ends to be joined making a long (2-3") tapered overlap then stitch down each side of the join using saddle stitch (two needles). Tandy make a useful skiving tool that makes this easier if you have problems using a flat knife.

Try to avoid stitching across the strap as this weakens the leather considerably - think perforations in a sheet of postage stamps.

Hope this helps.

Ray

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Do you have enough length in your leather to cut the strap on a curve? this will give you a lot of extra length and the leather will pull into shape if you wet it before stretching..

If not then skive both ends to be joined making a long (2-3") tapered overlap then stitch down each side of the join using saddle stitch (two needles). Tandy make a useful skiving tool that makes this easier if you have problems using a flat knife.

Try to avoid stitching across the strap as this weakens the leather considerably - think perforations in a sheet of postage stamps.

Hope this helps.

Ray

Thanks to both you guys for ansering me. Cutting on a curve sounds good Ray, but leather isn't big enough. Twelve Feet is a LONNNNG piece of leather.

My side I'm cutting from is about 90 inches. I think I'll go with barge cement, & saddle stitch,two pieces together.

Thanks for the tip on NOT stitching across. How about in a X stitch pattern. or just on the edges of the overlap part.

thanks again, KEEP ON POUNDING

Edited by craftsman827

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My $0.03 worth:

Find a "swivel" and you may be in business. It's an alternative that I've used with good results, on occasion. It is installed at the juncture of both 6' straps and allows 360 degree rotation of the lower section (the one that hooks to the collar).

Agree that stitching across a strap weakens the leather.

Surprised the owner doesn't want rivets. Brass, stainless steel and copper are available options.

If you glue it, stitch it. If you glue and stitch it, rivet it. Works well with larger working, competition dogs.

G'luck

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I'm totally with Spence on the swivel. It would make a much better and more functional product. It would also reduce the 'twist strain' on your stitching.

If it were my job, I'd leave the Barge alone and just stitch the edges, but gluing will certainly hold the work together whilst you stitch.

I'd also avoid X pattern stitching, but it is your job to do the best you can.

Like Spence, I'm also a fan of riveting working dog gear. The force a big dog can put on a leash can cause all kinds of problems. Better safe than sorry!

Try to avoid cheap rivets though. Solid brass, stainless or copper for me every time too.

BTW - it is 'technically' possible to get around fifteen foot (180") of strap out of a 90" long hide. I admit, it doesn't work on every bit of leather but I promise it is possible to cut a U shaped strap (up one side round and down the other) and pull it straight.

Good luck,

Ray

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i'm with UKRay. i'd avoid stitching across the strap at any cost - including the "x" pattern. this is essentially stitching across the strap, although at a safer angle than 90 degrees.

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I have an order for a 12 foot X 1 inch leather DOG leash.

I'm using W&C english bridle leather 10/12 oz.

I need some advise on how to splice 2, 6 foot pieces together to make one long leash.

The customer Don't want rivets, so I'm just going to hand stitch.

QUESTION IS : whats the best & strongest way to sew it together. EX: overlap, or use a small 2 inch piece over the splice???

All sugestions welcome...

There is no need to splice a leash. You can make them as long as you want to. Cut and blend all of the odd size pieces from the main body of the hide. You will end up with a very large oval. Make sure you remove all of the

belly. When you arrive at this point all you need to do is cut the leash. This is how 30 foot reins are made for a 4up team of draft horses pulling a wagon.

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If I cut a strap like this to do extra long pieces, and I use Latigo leather, can I expect it to pull into a straight lead if I soak it? Just curious if the soaking will soften it enough given all the oil in the leather?

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anyone? Bueller? hehehe

heading to buy some hides tomorrow and knowing the answer to above would help my decision on how many of which type ;)

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If I cut a strap like this to do extra long pieces, and I use Latigo leather, can I expect it to pull into a straight lead if I soak it? Just curious if the soaking will soften it enough given all the oil in the leather?

Water can not penetrate oil impregnated leather. If you use latigo it will stretch. Use English bridle or Herman Oak, harness leather is a good choice too. 10/12 oz. you can straighten it after you cut it out. Anchor one end and pull on the other end then swap them around and do it again.

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