Chit Report post Posted January 19, 2013 Hi guys I'm really new to leatherwork but i must say i have found this forum really much helpful in getting ppl like me started.. Thanks! Anyway, I hope this is not too sily a question, and im sure it is somewhere in another thread, but I noticed in many instructional videos that after the leather has been hole-punched for stitching, the leather worker will use an awl to go through each hole individually before putting the needle through. Is there a reason why? For me, I use a diamond-shaped chisel to punch my holes and do my stitching immediately. Am i missing something here? Appreicate your advice! Regards Wai Chit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WScott Report post Posted January 19, 2013 Hello and welcome This is not a silly question and there are so many opinions and methods out there. I have saddle stitched for only a couple years so this is only my short experience. I read the Al Stohlman stitching book and started his way. I started with making a groove with a groover, use a wheel to mark the hole locations for the entire length then use a round or diamond awl to get holes just ahead of where I am working so they don't close up too fast. Often I make holes seven or so stitches ahead of my needles so I can be faster. The wheel is hard to keep in the line and often drifts so stitching becomes not as straight as I would like. Ok, so then I bought set of diamond chisels from Japan goods and use them to punch holes in a grooved or scratched line. This punches out a small hunk of leather so the hole stays open...mostly. BUT on some leathers it closes up an I use the diamond awl to open them up as I go. I like the diamond punches as the holes are really easy to see and you can get some nice straight lines. Watching other videos by some pros, they use a pricking iron to mark their stitch locations and then the awl to get the holes. Pricking iron will be my next tool purchase. This method does not remove the leather like a punch would so the leather will close up around the thread. It looks really good. For my kid's work we actually punch out round holes with a small punch (Tandy has it and we use the same one in Dentistry for the beloved rubber dam). That allows my son (11 yrs old ) to saddle stitch easily and safely BUT the stitch hole will not close over around the thread. I do weird things like melt the end of my thread into a small mushroom to stop it from coming out of the eyelet of the needle rather than traditional method of threading the needle. Quicker for me and fewer dangling threads around. Sorry to ramble on, hope something helps I wrote Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WScott Report post Posted January 19, 2013 Short version..... the leather closes over the holes use awl to regain the space for needle/thread Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chit Report post Posted January 21, 2013 Hey WScott, appreciate your explanation, both long and short! Now i get it Coincidentally I also got some diamond chisel set from goodjapan too, they punch great i must say.. Anyway is there a difference whether i punch it // or \\? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WScott Report post Posted January 22, 2013 Absolutely! You should fool around with the punch orientation....get some scrap, punch some holes and do the stitching in them. You will see subtle differences in the stitch pattern. "http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44874&hl=" This is a great video set on stitching from a real expert. I don't do everything exactly as he says, but I like how he pulls the threads at the end of a stitch to set the thread into the diamond shape of the awl. Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
