srtboise Report post Posted March 15, 2013 hi guys, i took what i learned from my first holster (http://leatherworker...showtopic=46656) and made another one: i did not pre-punch any holes with my chisel punch this time, i used a round awl to make the holes as i was stitching. you may notice two different size thread, i stitched the reinforcment on with my 8 strand linen that i use for bowstrings and then the Barbours 6 cord linen arrived so i used it to stitch the rest of the holster together. the thinner thread made it alot easier but the round awl makes the holes too big. (i have a proper diamond awl now but it arrived after this project was complete) stitch line is closer to the gun and follows the profile much better. retention on this one is great. it may be a keeper. i think i will try the beeswax/neatsfoot that i keep seeing mentioned as a final finish this time. thanks for looking. comments and criticism are welcome. steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stomper4x4 Report post Posted March 16, 2013 Looking good! Looks like a nice 1911 too I really like the way the belt loops are set up. Seems like it would really keep the holster stable and not rock back and forth much. Probably has a nice draw on it too. I'm at the learning stages also, but one final finish thing I do think works well is Sno-seal. It's a product made for weatherproofing leather boots and such I believe. But for outdoors leather goods, knife sheaths, etc, it makes for a nice. shiny, water proof finish. I heat my final product with a hair dryer, rub on some sno-seal, then heat it again to it penetrates the leather nicely. A final buffing is all that is needed. Take a look at my Scandinavian knife thread I posted yesterday in this same forum section, that sheath is finished with sno-seal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dfwde Report post Posted March 16, 2013 It looks really nice, I would suggest waiting to stitch a little longer you can see the dye on the thread. Other then that it looks great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
srtboise Report post Posted March 16, 2013 Thanks for the comments. It's actually neatsfoot oil that darkened the tread, all the images without the gun show the stitching before wet molding and you can see the stitching is not stained at all. Thanks steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
