Larryvaan

Thank you @Tastech It was quite a comprehensive answer. What comes to heel drop, it is 12mm in the last. And I was going to do stacked heel, material is still under consideration. The toe spring will be 12mm, but it will (or can) be higher because toe area can have less material on midsole and outsole. Mock up is a great idea, I will have to do that first. It certainly will save time, money and efforts if something occurs on the last. My model is like Nicks workboots, but not quite like. Boots are going to be unlined, without toe cap and toe stiffener. There will be leather heel stiffener and heel counter.

Thank you @Mulesaw That sounds logical reason. I am going to use thick (2.5mm) vegetable tanned leather. I believe it should keep the form quite well. @fredk I have cut from heel to cone/instep. Parts are screwed together. Hopefully this helps on removing last from boots.

Yes, I have had sock when doing measurements. And also inside sole, which lifts foot a little bit. I think I just need to trust my work, and don't pay attention so much on what commerial lasts looks alike. They might to done with more cost effectively also and not so in detail.

Here are the foam model and plaster casts. I was thinking is there reason for making sides more flat because of heel area. How you can fit leather tight on heel.

Well I first made the last model from polyfoam and covered it with plaster cast. Then I was able to test how it fits to my foot. I made tens of measurements before making model. I felt the model was good and I started doing the wooden last based on this foam last. But know I have made this last sides based on my foot measurements. Like there is bones that needs that extra thickess on sides. But all the lasts I have seen, are more slim and dont have this kind of shape like I do now. I was thinking that there might be a reason why sides need to be different from actual foot measurement.

I am working last for working boots and thinking is the last correctly shaped. The sides of the last is more like convex-form (does not thin-out so), when commercial lasts and other I have seen are more thin and not having this much material on the side. Should I remove wood from sides? See the image with green line what I was thinking of.

Yes, thats a good advise. I have tested and practiced hand sewing for a while. I am using 18/3 linen thread, which seems too small. The needle is 1mm thick and the hole maker is 2mm thick. The thread does not fit tightly in the hole. I need to find a thicker thread, or trying to make smaller hole but it is also difficult to achieve. It is hard to find any thicker linen, 16/4 is next to try. Maybe trying cotton thread also, there seems to be more choises. I need to use natural fiber thread, so polyester is out of question.

Lasted construction

Lockstitch sound a good idea too. I ordered a lockstitch tool and give it a try. I wonder, when doing unlined shoes, could the seams inside the shoe cause friction to foot? Heel might be the biggest issue. I was going to use 18/3 linen thread, which is about 0.7-0.8mm in thickness (metric system) Does this need to be taken into account somehow. Making groove for stitching, but this is quite a big job to do.

That's what I was thinkin.. But as you said, this is a nice idea to do, so I will do it by hand sewing.

Yes, double sewing of course, for strengthening the constructions. And gluing the pieces before sewing. But that comes to stitch, can I get it more water repellent or even more waterproof, with hand sewing compared to machine sewing. Goretex lined boots or rubber boots are way too warm at summertime for me, that is why I am thinking this. Unlined breathable leather boots, with water repellent capabilities could be way to go.

I'm planning doing leather boots with hand stitching using waxed linen thread. Idea is to create as water repellent boots as possible. And because seams are the weakest point in boots, I was thinking that could the hand stitched seam be good for this. Is the saddle stitching with waxed linen thread creating more waterproof seam compared to machine sewn with ex. cotton thread? Can I create more tight/locked seam this way to prevent water going through.. Or is it just a waste of time and efforts.

Does anyone having ideas or comments on this? Maybe this is not a big problem. If you use leather shank, or build multiple layers sole from leather, those are also left without possibility to oil/grease. Using chrome tanned leather might help a little to withstand not being able to take treat the leather. It will get moisture and sweat even there is glue against lining leather. But not that much I suppose.

If I am making a boots where is leather between rubber coating and separate lining leather, is there a problem when you can not oil or grease that middle leather ever? Does it suffer and lose properties such as pliables over time. There would be glue also both sides on that because I suppose lining is good to glue with sewing. And I mean boots like Sorel Karibou