Larryvaan

Yes, thats a good advise. I have tested and practiced hand sewing for a while. I am using 18/3 linen thread, which seems too small. The needle is 1mm thick and the hole maker is 2mm thick. The thread does not fit tightly in the hole. I need to find a thicker thread, or trying to make smaller hole but it is also difficult to achieve. It is hard to find any thicker linen, 16/4 is next to try. Maybe trying cotton thread also, there seems to be more choises. I need to use natural fiber thread, so polyester is out of question.

Lasted construction

Lockstitch sound a good idea too. I ordered a lockstitch tool and give it a try. I wonder, when doing unlined shoes, could the seams inside the shoe cause friction to foot? Heel might be the biggest issue. I was going to use 18/3 linen thread, which is about 0.7-0.8mm in thickness (metric system) Does this need to be taken into account somehow. Making groove for stitching, but this is quite a big job to do.

That's what I was thinkin.. But as you said, this is a nice idea to do, so I will do it by hand sewing.

Yes, double sewing of course, for strengthening the constructions. And gluing the pieces before sewing. But that comes to stitch, can I get it more water repellent or even more waterproof, with hand sewing compared to machine sewing. Goretex lined boots or rubber boots are way too warm at summertime for me, that is why I am thinking this. Unlined breathable leather boots, with water repellent capabilities could be way to go.

I'm planning doing leather boots with hand stitching using waxed linen thread. Idea is to create as water repellent boots as possible. And because seams are the weakest point in boots, I was thinking that could the hand stitched seam be good for this. Is the saddle stitching with waxed linen thread creating more waterproof seam compared to machine sewn with ex. cotton thread? Can I create more tight/locked seam this way to prevent water going through.. Or is it just a waste of time and efforts.

Does anyone having ideas or comments on this? Maybe this is not a big problem. If you use leather shank, or build multiple layers sole from leather, those are also left without possibility to oil/grease. Using chrome tanned leather might help a little to withstand not being able to take treat the leather. It will get moisture and sweat even there is glue against lining leather. But not that much I suppose.

If I am making a boots where is leather between rubber coating and separate lining leather, is there a problem when you can not oil or grease that middle leather ever? Does it suffer and lose properties such as pliables over time. There would be glue also both sides on that because I suppose lining is good to glue with sewing. And I mean boots like Sorel Karibou