cadet4x4

Thank you for everyone's response, unfortunately I'm still not getting it to stop with the needle down repeatedly. In the video linked below I put tape on the handwheel to better show that it's not stopping with the needle down all the time. The black mark on the untapped area is TDC. The last few stitches in the video I heel the pedal. That is reliable, always coming back to TDC. As I'm uploading this I notice the 2 center red lights on the display will match up with red marks I created. These are circled in the pic below. All I want is the needle to reliably stay down at the same point each time the pedal is released so I know the stitch has been tied. https://youtube.com/shorts/KzFLlq2D2VQ?si=r9BNFJvetx-64NpD Thanks

I've been following this thread the past few weeks after setting up a clone 1341 that came with a Stichman drive. I like the idea of being able to choose needle up/needle down or no NPS at all with only a single button. The needle up works great, marks on the handwheel show it's really close each time it stops. The needle down however seems to stop anywhere it wants to. P03 setting doesn't seem to have an effect on the down position. Am I overlooking something? Realized I put this in 2 threads and couldn't delete. Sorry Thanks

Yes they line up very late in the dwell of the take up arms upper position. It looks like I'm just over 5/in now.

Yes. I found the set screw for the collar wasn't centered in the groove. The screw is locked in now.

My arrows don't line up, the collar could be locked into any position

Here is left of the drive belt

I realize my lower plate is loose. Here is the underside pic of the adjustment made. I'd like to verify this entire shaft is timed correctly. Anyone know at a procedure?

https://youtu.be/OezNzJN9LFk?si=lt7xv1-eMcQC6RzR Fingers crossed

friquant, Yes I can adjust the stitch length, from the longest stitch all the way back to zero. Yes it hits a positive stop rotating either direction. Reading a naval manual it mentioned to set the take up at the highest point. Loosen the dovetail cam assembly and rotate forward. The pics and video I'll be attaching soon are after this adjustment, it's yield is about 5.5/in. VID_20250902_165612895~2.mp4 VID_20250902_165612895~2.mp4 VID_20250902_165612895~2.mp4

I'm searching old threads to figure out why my 111w153 longest stitch is 6/in. I've reset everything according to Uwe's videos ( I would be sewing without them). Something caught my eye here above "eccentric gib locking screws weren’t in the groove" . Is there a video or diagram showing this adjustment? Thanks

Thanks Hans. This machine was dry when i bought it, been oiling a bunch. Rotation of the large disk seems to effect the lower foot stroke. Do you know of a setup procedure for it? I did mark the shaft before loosing and I know it didn't rotate any if at all but id rather set it up correctly if available. Thanks

Before I start to move things around, how to remove the end pay on this? I also have excessive pay on the arm around the bobbin case. I'll add those photos. I apologize for not knowing the names of these items yet, I will add I learn more. Thanks VID_20250326_141415896.mp4 VID_20250326_144110370.mp4

I'm looking for resources to adjust/tune my new 75yr old sewing machine. I'm very new to leatherwork and found this machine It was setup for heavy leather work and I'll be using it mostly for bags and wallets. I'll need needles, thread, bobbins, as nothing extra came with. The reverse doesn't feed well, and the lower foot is leaving marks in the leather. I'd also like to look into converting the motor to a brushless or servo drive. Any input is appreciated. Thanks