imon

@kgg Thank you for the bonus tips 🙂

I got the needles in 125, 130 and 140. The plan is to use Guttermann Mara 30 Polyester on two layers of 2.0–2.4mm (5–6oz) Veg Tan.

I spoke to the supplier. I explained to them what I've learned here this morning and they swapped my order for this: https://www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk/products/schmetz-135x16dia?_pos=1&_psq=135x17dia&_ss=e&_v=1.0 @kgg I think this lines up with what you explained "The equivalent to a system 135 needle for leather, 135x16"

@kgg It was explained to me that the 134 DI is the equivalent to the 135X8 DIA. The former being a European designation and the latter being USA/Asia. The manual says 135, and it's an Asian manufacturer. So, I think it's ok? 🤷‍♂️ The regional differences are super confusing.

@Tigweldor Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I've ordered a range of needles to try, as you suggested. I look forward to seeing the results 🙂

Thank you both for the advice. By "leather needle", do you mean diamond needles like the Schmetz Diamond Point Needle (https://www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk/products/schmetz-134di?variant=54843275346300)?

Today I received a Juki 1541 Walking Foot. I'm still waiting for my Guttermann Mara 30 Polyester to arrive next week (which will likely be my preferred thread). In the meantime, I've been practicing with Realm Bonded Nylon (40s) which I happened to have on hand, on 2.0–2.4mm (5–6oz) Veg Tan doubled up. Photo A shows the top of the leather I have practiced on: Stitch Length 5, Needle 19 (120) Stitch Length 5, Needle 23 (160) Stitch Length 6, Needle 23 (160) Stitch Length 6, Needle 23 (160) Stitch Length 6, Needle 23 (160) Stitch Length 4, Needle 23 (160) Photo B show the bottom of the leather. However, in each case I'm left with this unsightly rough impression where the needle penetrates through. My question: Is this normal behaviour on an industrial sewing machine? If so, I'll stop obsessing. If not, I'd love some advice on how to minimise the effect. Note: I appreciate that I haven't quite dialled in the tension yet, but I'll address that tomorrow. I didn't have much time to try it today.