Helenn

It sounds like a challenging situation, but there's hope for restoring your chair. First, you'll want to remove the current dye by gently using Fiebing's Deglazer or acetone. Be cautious and test on a small area first to avoid damage. Once the old dye is removed, use a high-quality leather dye like Fiebing’s Pro Dye or Angelus in your desired shade. Apply it in thin, even layers for best results. To prevent rubbing off, you might still need a finish like Angelus Matte Acrylic Finisher for a non-glossy look. Good luck!

I've used jeweler's loupe glasses, and they can be very helpful for detailed tasks by providing precise magnification. They often come in various magnification levels, so you can choose one that suits your needs. They can be a bit of an adjustment to wear, but once you get used to them, they can greatly improve accuracy for small, detailed work. If you're unsure, you might want to start with an adjustable pair or even just a pair of magnifying readers to see how they feel before investing in a more expensive option.

The Craftool A98 and A99 are indeed used for getting into tight corners and adding detail that larger stamps like the A104 can't reach. Al Stohlman often used these tools for precision work in figure and pictorial carving. Using them for both beveling and matting might be beneficial as their fine mesh creates subtle textures and smooth transitions that enhance the carving's realism. The finer mesh of these tools allows for more delicate detailing, which is especially useful for intricate designs. Experimenting with pressure and angles can yield various effects to suit your project’s needs.

It sounds like you did a thorough and careful job restoring the cutter blade on your 3-in-1 machine. Your method of using a coarse file and progressively finer tools to maintain the original bevel and remove the knicks seems effective, especially given the constraints of not having a lathe. It's great to hear you didn't need to use a grinder, as they can sometimes introduce heat damage if not used carefully. Your perseverance paid off with a functional and keen-edged tool. For the skiving blade, you might find a similar approach works well. Starting with ensuring the blade is securely held, you can use the same progression of files and stones. Keeping the bevel consistent is crucial, and frequent cleaning during the process will help you achieve a clean, sharp edge without introducing unevenness. Lastly, documenting your process with photos next time could be helpful for sharing your success and techniques with others who might face similar challenges. It might also give you a good point of reference for future projects. Good luck with the skiving blade, and kudos on reviving your 3-in-1!😊

Yes, I understand the tool you're describing. It's often referred to as a glue path abrader or scratcher. This tool is used to prepare surfaces for better adhesion before applying glue or stitching. The abrasive surface helps roughen up the area, allowing the adhesive to bond more effectively. It’s a handy tool in crafting, bookbinding, or leatherworking projects where precise glue application is essential. You might find it in craft stores or online under various names like "glue prep tool" or "glue path sander." Hope this helps!

Your method sounds right for adding extra length to accommodate the belt overlap and buckle. Typically, adding 9 inches should be sufficient as it accounts for both the buckle and some adjustment room. However, it's always good to double-check with the specific type of buckle you’re using and the thickness of the leather, as this might slightly change the needed length. Also, consider any personal preference for how much belt end you want visible. If possible, experimenting with a mock-up before cutting the final belt could help ensure the perfect fit.

It sounds like you're close to achieving the finish you want. If some fibers are still sticking out, consider lightly dampening the edges with water and gently sanding with high-grit sandpaper. This should minimize dye removal. Reapply Tokonole and firmly burnish with a smooth tool to compress the fibers more effectively. If Tokonole remains problematic, you might revisit the glycerin and saddle soap method you're comfortable with, then finish with a thin Tokonole layer for extra shine. Practicing on a small test piece can help refine your technique without risking further damage to the belt. Good luck!