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Zonker62

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  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

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Profile Information

  • Location
    France
  • Interests
    Marine upholstery (Sprayhoods, lazy bags, sail repair etc) leather upholstery

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Benches
  • Interested in learning about
    Machines setups, Machine tuning
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google

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  1. Thanks! that's a great idea, and it comes exactly where I thought where the problem was, a run-on or overrotation after a brutal stop which makes some lack... I'll check where this is available!Thanks a lot! Now with all this, on the STW-8B, we have lost the Mitsubishi DU-105 subject...:-) Edit: "Some slack":
  2. The thread comes out of the slit, goes around the bobbin until approximately facing the needle (1/4 turn), and then the tension is so high of course, that either upper thread breaks, either I catch it in time and reinsert the thread into the slit..until next time... Will provide pictures...
  3. @Friquant: Just to make sure everyone understands the issue: the bobbin is loaded backwards at all time, this machine won't work or will mess around if this condition is not fullfilled. I work with #20 (V138) upper and most of the time #30 (V92) below, it's only when I load V138 below on the bobbin that I have the thread coming out of the slit after a certain time, or just after the start, or when going backward, I have trouble to find when exactly it happens. I have adjusted the bobbin tension to higher, and it jepled a bit but it came back. tension during rewinding or the bobbin might be the cause because sometimes I find the bobbin with some slack...
  4. @KGG Thanks, it's night time now a comin' but I'll do that tomorrow. If I understand well, you want a close up of the thread going from the spool to the needle while the hook is passing by? I'll try to make some shots but it won't be easy.. You gave me a hint, needle bar height? Will post tomorrow... Have a good one!
  5. Hi Everyone, My Seiko STW-8B is doing OK for Bimini tops, doghouses, lazy bags but sometimes, the thread coming from the bobbin gets out of the slit , always when starting a job and now I know that after 2'', if it's OK then I can continue, but it's boring.. I have the occasion of getting a Mitsubishi DU-105, How would you compare the Seiko STw-8B, to the M DU-105 and an adler 167-63 (simple, a worhorse, although drop feed and needle feed only, a great machine)? In terms of - stitch length -ruggedeness - parts availability Thanks a lot for your answers, it\s a very interesting community here! Best Xavier
  6. Hi! Thanks for the replies. F&R are exactly the same and there's a beautiful reverse giong in its path. I will post a video so you can see and diagnose but I was looking for something written, 'cause both Seiko/Consew manuals are scarce on the tuning...
  7. Hello all, I recently purchased this Seiko STW-8B, because of the triple feed, or walking foot, that I need in certain cases (sewing crystal windows on sprayhoods for example). I didn't find any interesting manual like I usually do for Durkopp, Adler, Singer...Seen the ione for the Consew 226RB but no particular procedure for these items. And my maximum stich length at the moment must be something like 2.5-3mm...And I thought it would be nuch more than that. And also the presser foot height, it was set in such manner that the foot wasn't pressing the material (was probably set for some 1/4 inch thickness) and after lowering the bar I barely get 9-10mm (lower than 1/2'). Could anyone help me mainly to set correctly this machine, stitch length and maybe a word or 2 on pressr foot height? Thanks in advance, Cheers!
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