Hey all, I’m looking for sewing machine recommendations. I know there’s probably no perfect solution for my needs aside from owning multiple machines, but I’d love to hear input.
I’ve been working on true-moccasin style bootmaking—basically trying to mimic Russell Moccasin’s approach as closely as possible. This involves sewing 3D lines with partially assembled components getting in the way. I’ve been managing with a hand-cranked CLSP, which has done surprisingly well with some planning and tinkering, but it’s not ideal.
Here’s my bootmaking Instagram for reference:
📸 x24_leathers
Some challenges:
Heel stay: Very 3D—standard cylinder arms don’t offer the articulation I need. A post-bed machine would likely shine here.
Quarters to vamp / molded sole to upper: These need a cylinder arm. A post-bed can’t manage this geometry.
Russell uses a range of machines—Puritan chain stitch, post-bed, cylinder arm, etc.—but I don’t have their resources.
I’ve been eyeing a motorized 29k clone. I know it’s a patching machine, not a production machine—but the general concept (rotating arm, slim profile) actually works well for my use case. That said, its 6mm punch capacity and basic walking foot feed seem limiting.
Ideally, I want to upgrade from the CLSP to something that retains its versatility, handles moderate 3D work, and can sew with #5 Vinymo MBT (about 0.6mm; slightly thicker than size 138). I currently use:
120/19 needles for <3mm material
130/22 needles (these: Amazon link) for >3mm
Any recommendations or insights are appreciated. Thanks!